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Id get an edelbrock fuel pump, or make sure it doesnt exceed 6psi it will drip on your intake manifold with too much pressure and id hate to see iciy on a new motor lol
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Nice looking engine like the detail you put in it. Question on the first page what are the size of tires from your dads 29, I like the way they look.
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Engine looks great mike!! Most old gm mechanical fuel pumps were rated 5 to 7 psi. I tend to stay in the 6 to 7 psi range because you can over pressure the needle and seat and over-fill the float bowl.
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His tires are 285/70R15. They are BFG's with a nice moon cap. Those are just his drive to the show tires, his show tires are more of the bias type old school fifties rod style with the parallel ribs for tread.[/QUOTE]
I'm old 64 so I like old school!!!:metal: |
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My dad is going to be 80 next year and he is still working full time at a physical job and he comes home every night and starts wrenching on the rod, I want to be as healthy as him when I am his age.
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Love the buildup of this truck !! keep up the great work!
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Ran into some trouble again today, the rack and pinion from the Mustang is right where it needs to be but unfortunately it is right in the way of the power steering pump and bracket. I had to redesign the bracket to work, which puts it higher but now I need to redesign the alt bracket to accommodate the new position of the power steering pump. Ugg!
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Where is the steering shaft going to run for your setup?
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The steering shaft is going right in front of the driver side motor mount but right behind the power steering pump. here I have used my 3/8 drive ratchet extension to mock up the location but it will be relatively the same place when it is the real deal.
http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...DSC_0005-2.jpg You can see here that I have moved it back as far as it will go but if I was to keep the power steering bracket the same I would have to change the cross member. http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...l/DSC01454.jpg |
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Beautiful, and it looks like you could get that there without even clearancing the framerail.
You suuuuure you don't want to sell those brackets? :) e: I might run into alternator clearance issues there, wonder if I can easily mount it on the passenger side since my A/C is up top instead. |
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Awesome truck! Now I'm kicking myself for selling my '69, even though it was a wreck!:lol: I love what you have done, from the conversion to half ton, the tires, shop logo, spoiler on the endgate, the upholstery on the F-350 seat, and the engine mounts! Great job, I am tuned in and eagerly waiting your future work on the truck!
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Mike, having trouble with personal replies. So I had to send it on the California forum, Sorry.....
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They make a low mount passenger side alternator bracket but you have to move the fuel pump and go electric. Quote:
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Looking good Mike. Can't wait to see it at the Brother's show this year.
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There is a new kit available for bolt in rack and pinion for those that are interested.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...441047&page=14 |
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hey mike been a while since i checked your build, not on the 67-72 side much but i think we will see you at the cpp show this year?? l ooking good man cant wait to hear it run
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Thanks man, I will be at the Brothers show if I have to push it there, but I had not heard where or when the CPP show was this year.
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O.K. I figured out my alternator bracket geometry. The corvette one I was intending to use would not work because I had to lift the power steering pump to clear the rack and pinion steering, so the vette bracket would hit the top of the pump but also the alt belt would rub on the housing of the P.S. pump. I came up with this design that raises the alt up high enough to clear the pump but also uses a unique tensioning system that looks good and is really solid, it uncluttered the system. These are intermediate photos, finish photos tomorrow when it is day light. I buffed the S.S. strap and powder coated the bracket gloss black.
http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC01530.jpg http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC01532.jpg I still need to find a S.S. bolt with a button head like a carriage bolt but stronger, the hex head is too close to the belt. http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC01533.jpg http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC01534.jpg It was easier to just buy a S.S. bolt and cut it up, vs. buying a foot of the stock and the local metal yard. http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/IMG_0698.jpg It clears the pump nicely http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC01535.jpg |
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Pretty sweet Mike! :metal:
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That is slick as snot!
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Nice set up you created. The tensioner is something I might copy.
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Except for the button head atlternator bolt it is finished.
http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC01536.jpg http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC01537.jpg |
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very clean looking !
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:metal: nice mod
let me know if you're looking to get rid of the vette brackets :chevy: |
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I never got one. Once I saw that the P.S. pump was as high as it was I never pursued the vette bracket further because I could tell that there was no way it was going to work. My version is close to the dimensions of the vette bracket but I slotted the holes so that it could bolt to the top two holes in the head or the top right and bottom left. The way I mounted it it sits parallel to the ground.
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Ah, roger that. You got dimensions for the vette brackets?
My alternator is still stationary. Hasn't moved, don't really expect it to. Still keeping the option open though. |
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Very nice work as always Mike! I hope you are using just a touch of anti seize on your SS hardware that you may have to take back off at some time. I hate it when the get gauled up and ruin the threads. Especially if it's SS inside SS. Keep up the great work.
Bunch of innovative ideas to steal here. |
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Have any and all ideas you want!
I don't have the anti seize on yet because I expect it to be dis assembled again when over the button head bolt for the alternator. But when it is installed for good I will put it on. Posted via Mobile Device |
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dude
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I really like the work you have been doing on your truck.
I don't like to buy something when I can fabricate it myself either. I'm anxious to hear your engine when you get it running. |
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Thanks for the encouragement, I often find it therapeutic to fab my own stuff, even if I can afford it, it is much more fun to make it as I am sure you have experienced. Much more to come but life has gotten busy recently.
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Over the past several months I have been developing a set of hood hinges that utilize the same bracketry from the original hood hinges but are dressed up for the new century. Here is a progress image of the hinge so far.
It is not done yet, and the main frame of the hinge still needs to be powder coated. All of the joints have replaceable bronze bushings in them so he aluminum does not get eaten away. This has been a fun project but not too hard if you would like to attempt it. Aluminum is soft and easy to work with. it takes some doing to get it to a shine like this but a mat finish doesn't look bad either. I re worked the stops on the hinge and some of the geometry so that it will open about 8 inches further than stock. Really what it came down to is cost, I could not afford to buy these even if I wanted to but I liked the way it dresses up the engine bay. I'm having some issues with the gas strut being strong enough to hold the hood up so I might have to change some things to accomodate a stronger strut. http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/81d6de4d.jpg Here it is next to the OEM version. You can see how much further it will open. http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/bfaf8f2b.jpg |
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Dang dude, that's pretty sweet!! :metal: (I want some,,:(,)
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I just used the pieces from the original hinge to trace out the aluminum. then I just ground off the meat that did not matter to the structure of the arm and to make them a little sexier. The cool thing is since I used the original brackets and the original geometry I know that they will fit, the big question is will they hold open?
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