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A dash done with the SW gauge you picture would be very cool too. Just no billet for the panel to mount them in. An aluminum panel that was PC with a satin black or black wrnkle finish would look good.

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Stock panel that's modified is the intent.

I dislike the billet gauge panels that are commonly offered. There is one that I 'kind-of' like, but even it would require tweaking to fit my taste (I don't care for shiny/blingy stuff in the interior). Considering the price of the one I semi like, & then it still needs those tweaks.... I'll tweak the OE piece & still look good for ~$200 less.

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I was just thinking the same thing . ..What to do with the holes if you moved the key and switches and lighter down ...or somewhere else ..I thought of maybe under the dash or in the space behind the ashtray (hinge the door)



Scoti -I had not thought of a insert panel with angle bend forward to hide the holes I just had seen the flat insert plate. Thanks for the idea ......
I saw a dash plate made from stainless plate from a commercial entry door (Toe kick plate). It was really shiny looked nice and I bet it could blind a driver if the sun hit it just right..
There was a white powder coated insert shown here on the forum a while back that looked OK I suppose you could powder coat just about any color or paint/ pinstripe /flame ETC around the gauges...

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Well, I was down for the count this weekend w/my neck locked up & immobile (slept wrong & it went downhill quickly from there). So I did only minor stuff playing around w/the gauge layout. Looks like the cost effectiveness of new gauges trumps the 'cool' factor of originals.

I went by my buddies place today to check out the color on the interior. I'm very happy w/the results! It dawned on me today that the color is very close to 'silly putty'. There's still a little more to go but it's definitely moving @ a good pace. Working on getting the glass locally & still investigating seals (glass & doors; weatherstripping/felts/window channels) as I would like to get everything high quality from one source.

Couple of pics sent to me....

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Nice!!!

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SCOTI,... let me know what you find out on "quality" windhield gaskets. (brand)
I need a set for my '70 stepside.

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here is a pics of my gauge cluster for reference. got the panel from an advertiser in Goodguys and put in my Mooneye gauges

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That's what I have laid out on my template. I started disecting the wiring groups so I can use some of the OE plugs & routing for 12v, lighting, & turn signals.

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General concensus is Precision Rubber or Steele Rubber products are the way to go. N2billet had issues w/the 'Soft Seal' brand gasket for his front glass.

The 2 different 'old school' glass guys I'm waiting on quotes from said they would only use one of the two I listed.

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Im a fan of vintage style aftermarket gauges. I really like the Autometer Street rod gauge sets. I think I will be using the Antique beige gauges in my truck.

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Stewart Warner 'Deluxe' series for my 64.

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Loaded the big window swap pics.

Slice & dice (No, that's not me in the pic).
Small skin out.
Large skin in to test fit & trim.
Stripped & initial sealer on the large window skin....

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Clean-up the inside surface of the OE outer skin in preparation for the install.
One final test fit to make sure every place that needs to be bare steel is for excellent adhesion.
Start the expert application of the panel bond adhesive (no, I didn't do it).
Continue the expert application of the panel bond adhesive ;) .
Bunch of clamps to keep the new big window skin where we want it....

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Once the panel adhesive cures, the clamps are removed & the over-lapping OE small window skin is trimmed flush w/the new inner big window skin....

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I don't know how you've had this thread goin on for 6 mos., and I just now found it. Guess I'm not very observant. Your work looks killer so far ,keep it up. The BBW window conversion will definately be worth it after it's all said and done, that was an excellent decision to do that. I'll try to come check it out in person sometime soon.

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Thank you sir! I'm ready to get this thing rollin' so we can do the Kellers deal again. Although, next to yours..... it will really look patina.

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All adhesive and no welds? I thought I would at least weld at the door edges. Not knockin it. I bet it'll be fine.

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Tacks for the corners & edges; adhesive everywhere else.

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That looks tons better, Scoti.

Maybe an engine turned insert around the gauges would look kinda period, too?

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I love the BBW conversion. It's going to really bring this project forward. Aftermarket gauges....mmmm, not so much. This thing deserves more than that.

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Look @ it this way..... Would you trust the project w/$400 45yr old gauges or $400 new '60's style gauges? Would it be better to know your actual voltage or guess what that handy (?) ampmeter is telling you? What about when the temp needle 1/2 way between H & C (or would you prefer to know you're @ 190°F)? Pick your poison.

I know our good firend N2billet faced a similar decision & opted for new gauges. I'm open to alternative suggestions....

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BBW looks great! I am convinced, and I have a donor cab waiting for me to haul it home. As for the gauges, I agree with you that the aftermarket "old style" gauges with engine turned panel will give you more accurate readings, with an old rod look...and if you're happy with them, thats what matters.

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I went with new aftermarket gauges. The stock cluster on our trucks is ok visually but just as you have said I want to know actual readings for Oil Pressure, Temperature, Volts, Vacuum, Etc.

Oh, and the BBW instal was quite educational and the results are awesome. (I still like small back windows though :frog:)

Your truck mod's are an inspiration to us all!

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If you're using the adhesive I think your using you'll have nothing to worry about, on that particular application.

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I'm not sure if they were trying to tell each other something in this pic or if they were trying to tell me something :lol: .... Either way, 3M panel bond adhesive was used.

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Nice job on the conversion; looks very nice.

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You have very valid points, I just don't like the look of aftermarket gauges in these trucks dash. Doesn't anyone restore the OEM cluster?

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I considered having a gauge cluster restored. But, that $400 cost is just a clean 'gauge' cluster w/a 'new' re-pop tach (that works w/HEI). Now add the cost of restoring the gauges on top & we're way past the $400 aftermarket option.

I'm w/you on these trucks w/aftermarket gauges. I don't care for the generic billet/ABS plastic (like Covans) set-ups but there's only so much you can do when arranging the gauges within the given space. I'm trying to find some sort of compromise.... nostalgic appearing gauges that tell me what drivetrain vitals I need to know (actual temp, actual oil psi, actual voltage).

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Beautiful BBW conversion, much better!

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Just read all this....great job man, all the advice you give is being put to work now....

Looking good bro...

:metal:

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Nice write-up and photo-documentation on the BBW conversion. I am going to try the 3M, #8115, Panel Bonding Adhesive. It would make the conversion a lot less labor intensive, with regards to welding, grinding & top-dressing all puddle welds around the perimeter.

A completely restored factory dash cluster with gauges is less than $400.00...including night-glow green on inside of case, zinc-coat on outside of case, non-glare black on face of gauge backing plate, alumi-blast & clear on bezel surround, vinyl gauge faces, polished lens, refinished needles, bench-tested gauges, speedo lub & reset and new lamps. We have done several of them and they look amazing when they are done properly.

You can also purchase them refurbished at:

www.bowtiebits.com

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$610 plus a $60 core charge at bowtiebits :eek:

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The cheapest I've found the aftermarket re-pop tach kits for is $190. The average prices for clean gauge clusters is $60-100. Add in the labor for clean-up, detailing or polishing, shipping, plus the 'new' tach kit w/shipping & that's where my $400 estimate for a restored 'gauge' cluster & bezel originated. I could be slightly high (or low) on the estimate & I'm not sure on the actual condition of the gauges or what if any warranty there would be.

Let me know if you've got a smokin' deal on something.....

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Exactly.

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8115 works really well for things like this. being lazy, I also used it to fill trim holes on a '94 Buick Roadmaster I had once upon a time. It worked great. I bring this up because the trim holes in these trucks are pretty similar. It would save a ton of panel warpage if one was going to fill all of the trim holes.

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NICE WORK KAT! :metal:

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Off topic, but do you feel that it is stable enough to use on trim holes? It seems like it might come back to haunt you later.

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nice

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If you use a metal patch on the back, it will stay. There were probably at least 20 holes on each door. I think using the 8115 was probably a better fix, as you didn't have to worry about warpage. It's funny now, but we used pennies on the backside (since they were hidden) on the holes, and cut metal patches to fill the opera lights on the pillars and the hood ornament hole. I had the car for a couple of years after that, and there was not even any minor cracking at the repair.

The instructions say to weld the replacement panel at the ends (depending on the type of adhesive bonding material used). I don't think it replaces welding completely, but used properly it works well. There are a lot of OEM applications as well.

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I just spent the last 45 minutes reading the build process/progress & all I can say is very well thought out .... awesome job.

Ratty 46