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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Quick update.. This weekend I transported the K5 to my place inside the garage so I can finish the tear down. The AC, electrical wires and heater is all I have about left before it's ready to removed from the frame and taken down to the body shop.
Any tips on removing the windshield? Attachment 1325923 Attachment 1325924 Attachment 1325925 Check out this cool Clifford Alarm system that I certainly won't be using lol. It has more wires than the whole truck does. Attachment 1325926 |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Cut the gasket with a utility knife and save the OEM trim. Don't wast any $$ on repro windshield trim. Get a Precision brand gasket and polish up the OEM trim for re-use.
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Mine was still in good shape no cracks or splits, carefully worked it out with regular and plastic putty knives. cleaned it up and reused it. Same with the hard top window glass. Heard too many stories about ill fitting weatherstrip on glass. Either way.. Good luck.
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Don't make the same mistake I did.. The Wilwood D52 Caliper kits will not fit our K5's with 15x8 rally wheels.
I didn't find this out until last weekend when I mounted the tire and was about to push the truck onto the trailer... The front wheels wouldn't budge. It turned the wheels where getting stuck on the caliper. |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Bummer! Would a wheel spacer help at all?
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Thanks, that was my initial thought. I'm trying to save all my trim as best I can and just clean and polish with a dremel. Do you cut it from the inside or outside or both? |
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I honestly forget where I seen it. I think it was a online wood veneer supplier for furniture ,cabinets.I will try to find it again. |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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I have finally figured out the modifications the PO (original owner) did to install the 36 gallon gas tank.
1. He removed the rear cross-member that has the 2 fuel lines going across the top of it. 2. He tack welded threaded nuts to the inside bottom of the frame rail so he could hold the tank with the straps that where on there. 3. He welded a cross bar going from the 2nd to last body mounts to compensate for the loss in reinforcement for removing the original rear cross member that sits in between the frame rails. I cut off the threaded nuts using a sawzaw and dremel. Now I have to figure out a solution for the cross bar that welded to the body mounts. If you're wondering why the 2nd to last body mounts are removed from the frame is because this part was riveted to the body so we had to cut them to get the body off the frame. 1. Do I try cutting it off? 2. Find some replacements and rivet or bolt on new (used) one on? Anybody know where I could find a set? |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Threaded nuts that where welded to the inside of the frame rails on each side. There was a total of 4
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Pics this time
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For the level of build you're doing, I'd vote to put it back like it came...and I think you could with not too much effort. My frame was hacked on and cracked. We had to do a fair amount of prep work on it too. Attached is a pick of the frame I bought my exhaust hanger off of. The whole frame is for sale for $500. I called and asked if he'd sell me the hanger...and he didn't blink. Might be worth a call to see if he'd take off your pieces too. Also, member Uncle had a 72 frame for sale/part out forever. It was very rusty, but that cross member might be workable if he's still got it. Here's the website with the frame for sale (just scroll down when you get there): http://www.billstruckshop.com/67-72used.html |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
I'd replace the missing OEM support with grade 8 bolts and thread loctite and call it a day. I need to look and see what if any work was done to install the Hickey tank in my Blazer.
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I did source an original cross member from a pickup that will fit exactly the same. If he could sell me just the hangers that would make everything a lot easier.. I'll give him a call and see what he says.
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Looking like progress brother. I'd go with the suggestion of putting it back the way it came from the factory also.
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Sockalaminski - Agree 100%..
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I know you got an update worthy of pics - let's see em! ;)
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It's been a while so I thought I would update with a few more progress pics.
The PO made some modifications to the frame that required some minor work to put this back to its stock form. First was the custom tow hitch that was welded to the outside of both sides of the frameAttachment 1359120 Attachment 1359121 He also made some bad drill holes on the top side of the frame, so I patched that up to make it look decent enough. I'm not even sure if there is supposed to be a hole there or not. Attachment 1359122 Attachment 1359123 The rear cross member was drilled out to compensate for the larger gas tank and he welded a cross bar to the hangers for the body mounts. I cut that off using a sawzall. Then I cut the rest of cross bar as close as I could to the hangers off and then finished it off with an angle grinder and flap disc to smooth it down. Attachment 1359124 |
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managed to save the hangers and then drilled out the rivets.
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Thanks to Seventy one who came over and helped me tack weld this piece of the front leaf spring where I accidentally cut into when I had to cut out the spacer that wouldn't budge when removing the leaf springs
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I absolutely hated the look of the painted front end of the frame and front axle..So I had them powder coated to match everything else.
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more close up shots
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Mike that looks great!!!!
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Nice!
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Awesome! Powder coat is the best.
Hopefully the areas we worked on look like they were never messed with now that it's coated. |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Great build! Way back on page one you were asking about the heater core and where you could get a replacement because LMC didn't carry it. The Truck Shop in Orange, California sells new ones. They are $59 if I'm not mistaken.
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Thanks guys!
Cameo - I think I'm going to just have mine refurbished. I've been talking to the guys at Classic Auto Air |
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Probably a smart move. I am sure they will make it better than the new Chinese reproduction stuff.
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I now have a bad case of frame envy - just beautiful.
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opinions / options please
I have a original 72 blazer tank thanks to 1rippen. I had a couple of options I was thinking I could do with it, so here goes Options 1 - Have the dents repaired ($250-$300 quotes from local shops) Then have my guy at the radiator shop acid wash the inside and relined for $175 - Total $475 and I have a nice original restored tank. Option 2 - Buy a steel reproduction tank which are made in China to my knowledge ($175ish), plus shipping cost, and the radiator guy will swap the filler neck for $45 - Total w/o shipping cost $230 I like the idea of buying a new steel tank, but with all the nightmares I hear about repro stuff I'm afraid it still wont fit correctly. In the end I and up pissing more money down the drain and reverting back to option 1. If anybody has done option 2 and it worked out great, please let me know where you bought the steel tank from and if you had any issues. I have the original straps, the 2 square washers, 1 spacer bracket, (need 1 more) and the original square u-shape bolt. I'm in the process of fabricating the rubber isolators thanks to member seventyone who is sending me is originals to use for making the dimensions. |
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Throwing this out there: skip the dent repair as these will be covered by the skid plate and just acid wash/reline...
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I guess you and I will be the only ones who know.. or anybody that reads this. :lol:
I think I'll just sand it down to get all the scale/rust off then have it acid washed/lined and then primer and paint it myself. In the meantime I'll ask around and see if someone would fix the dent's for less. They don't need to be perfect. |
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I faced the exact same situation. Radiator guy couldn't get the original straightened out good enough...and to his credit he called the ball and didn't charge me. I got a new tank (from 1rippen btw) and swapped the neck. It came out great. I used the original straps which cleaned up nicely. I had a local machine shop reproduce the square u-bolt which was trash and had to be cut out on disassembly. We did line the new tank. The radiator guy had kind of gotten into the project (he did my radiator re-core as well) and painted the tank with some "galvanized" paint to homogenize it after neck swap. That didn't look too good, so we repainted it. Here are a few pics.
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Looks nice! That might be a viable option if 1Rippen has a new tank and I can swap the necks.
I noticed on your rear leaf springs, the U shape bracket with the bolts that slides through the other end, you have them facing the rear. I put mine on the opposite way. Do you know if it makes a difference? |
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