Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

No kidding?? Anything electric from HF I expect to break sooner than later. Welder im using is from there. Decided to buy Lincoln wire from lowes one day instead of the HF stuff and was amazed at the difference just the wire made.

So their Vulcan brand is something to look into? I'll look up reviews. Which one are you looking at?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

You will be amazed when you go from flux to gas and you get some .023 Easy Grind wire, your welds will automatically improve. Then the "grinding" which is really just removing the proud of the weld to smooth the finish back down will make the work so much better. I've got the little Lincoln 140, 110V unit and it works well on the truck parts.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

The Vulcan omni pro is the one I'm looking at...at hf it's about 950 now....they had a sale back last fall for about 825.....its not a hf brand...they just happen to sell them.....
Has 1yr no fault warranty...one they have at work a guy layed down the mig stinger in the floor and it got run over by a forklift....they took the stinger back and was just gonna buy a new new one....hf said NO....bring the whole welder back....gave us a brand new welder....hard to believe but that's how it went.....
Im trying to get my IH done....but before I start on my AD I will have one of the vulcans....
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9NAnSGOD8uA

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got a new toy from HF. Pneumatic flanger and hole puncher. Works awesome. Used it on the door patch and it fits in real nice. I know butt weld is supposed to be best but I'm still learning and that's a long seam to weld. I'll get some weld through primer on way home tomorrow.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

make sure to tack the seam together in a bunch of different places before starting to weld for any length of time. then weld a bit here and a bit there and let the weld cool before you carry on. if you don't the weld seam will look like a dog's hind leg. it will warp all over the place. if you don't do a bunch of quick tacks first to get the seam stuck from one end to the other the 2 pieces will start to warp and separate from each other. if planning an overlapping seam then you could use sheet metal screws to hold things together the whole length, then weld and remove screws as you go. only weld an inch or so at a time and make sure to let it cool so it is the same as the rest of the panel before doing another weld. have another project on the go to keep you busy and not be tempted.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I'm doing a lap weld and the flange tool made it to where its level across the two pieces. I know what you mean about needing another project at the same time. I did this during my cab corners.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

On all the lap welds I've seen throughout the truck, there are spots welds where they overlap. Is it OK to copy this or should I weld the whole length of the seam? If I do a bunch of spot welds, the top piece needs to be punched or drilled every so often right? how far apart and how big should the holes be?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

that is how new vehicles are assembled as well but they also use adhesive in the seam along with the spot welds. with that said I would think if you spot welded, or basically drilled through the top layer like you said, every couple of inches, like the factory did, you should be fine. use seam sealer to keep the weather out on both sides of the seam. less welding=less possible warpage. small sections at a time with spot welds may make for a nice flat panel. if you are drilling holes anyway they could be used as screw holes or cleco holes to hold the panel in place while tacking. those holes would go right through both panels then of course.
when welding ensure to cut the wire each time for a nice chisel tip to strike the arc with. also ensure the steel is clean on both sides so no contamination gets in and causes porosity (bubbles in the weld), then paint and seam seal. a gas mig weld would definately make a nicer weld than the flux core. experiment some with how big you need to make the hole to weld through so you get the knack for attaching the weld puddle to both pieces. lots of those plug welds look great but only attach to the top piece of metal so there is no integrity. in that case it would be better if the part was simply rivetted using the proper rivet tecnique and composition of rivet of course, like aircraft.
see my example of how I used cleco's on the rear floor panel. like a spot weld done through each cleco hole. I did have to drill each cleco hole a bit bigger to get a decent weld through and be sure to check the back side to see if you have made penetration enough to sort of bubble the metal on the back side of the weld. otherwise you may just be filling the top side hole and thinking it is all good. sometimes the cleco "through hole" makes it easier to see that the weld puddle did attach to the bottom panel. practice makes a better "project" job for sure.
just my 2 cents.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

seam sealer comes in caulk or brush style. sometimes brush style could be better because it can go on thicker with better control. use the tape idea and then cut down a plastic putty knife to make the contour you like so it feathers out to the edge, that way your seam sealer looks like it is proffessionally done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KysXj_PfIAE

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I like cleco's haven't used them in a long time. I think I'll get some just to have some. What size do you use most of the time? 1/8, 3/16?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

the size depends on the weight it will need to hold. a small cleco canbend while still inserted in the hole. if welding anyway you could use a larger size.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got windshield in. Had a couple of suction cup things. Pulled on those while pulling on the rope. Went much easier than last time. I used a tiny bottle of dawn and soaked up every little thing. Glass still needs a little maneuvering but it got dark and it's real close. I'll need to find a way to lube it all up in a couple of days. How's WD40? Nice little straw...

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got some small stuff done yesterday. Drilled out a couple of broken bolts on radiator support and I messed with the lower steering column mount. The mount is great but covering the left over opening like where the shifter part went through didn't look good. So I made a template and cut out some sheet metal. Drilled a hole, overlapped the pieces just enough to use my new flanging tool on so they overlap. I mocked the cover up and it looked pretty clean and awesome!

When I secure it in place I'll post another pic.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got the new pieces around the lower column mount. Looks much nicer, a couple more bolts and a seal of some type is all I need now.

Got the patch I made on the door. Went slow and nothing is warped!! Still needs some touch up but I think I'll ask my buddy to spare some time and come by.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Couple pics to go with yesterday's stuff. Also had this little spring fall out of the door. What is it?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Could spring belong to the door latch handle?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

That's a spring out of a window regulator

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

yep, window regulator. it's broke too.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-glass.671179/
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-1950-C...-/322056330144

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I was looking those two parts up. Guess I'll see when I pull glass out tomorrow. Maybe I'll get lucky and it's the latch spring.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Looks like that spring was the door patch one. I understand why a lot of you buy new regulators... repaired driver side one. Took a long time. I forgot to get a couple of things. Do I have to use adhesive for the channel or could I use self tapping screws? What size of glass setting tape do I need for the window frame?

And what can I use to hold the frame pieces together? One side is good, other was undone, looks like that part would be in the channel.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Barrel bolts! And it turns out I added them to my big order a while back. Actually though they were screws for the top slide rail thingy.

So I fit driver side channel in place and took out passenger window. Had to drill out 3 of the 4 screws. Problem with driver channel. The metal piece it runs along in the door is not attached at the bottom. I can easily push it in place but it pops back. No missing screws that I could see, maybe a popped spot weld? How do I fix This? See last pic shot from bottom pointing up.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I use adhesive, works great

that loose piece, if its at the back of the door there are two screws on the outside of the door that hold it.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Hey Matt_50. The inside of the door (as you can see) is a rough space to work in. Check the out side of the door for any signs of a spot weld. If found, drill out spot weld then brace inside part in place and plug weld from outside. I hope that's what you were asking about.

Earl

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Went out with flashlight. First pic shows no screws on outside. 2nd pic shows same spot on passenger door.

2nd pic is upside down.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Any ideas how to fix it. Found this pic, piece on right side.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Matt_50. Could you reach in there through the access hole with a mig gun and put some tac welds in there? Would that be feasible?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I don't think so.. and I couldn't see it either. Maybe I could make another access spot....

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

well if it were me I would use the fuze it stuff I use for everything else, just a little dab on the flange then clamp it with one of those metal clothespin looking things.

if you can get a battery screwdriver in there you could zap it with a pan head drill tip screw. there is no stress on that part, the window pushes it tight when it rolls down.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Matt_50. I'd like to ask Joedoh a question about the fuze it stuff. What the name of that stuff. There have been several times where I could have used something like that. Thanks.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

no problemo, its actually called liquid nails fuze-it. fuze anything to anything, sandable, paintable, very serious bonding properties. looks like mixed fusor, smells a little like it too.

https://www.liquidnails.com/products...form-statement

the better your surface the better it works, but I wiped some excess on a rusted license plate and stuck a piece of clean metal to it, and you cant get them apart, it was tearing the rusted license plate.

I use it as a seam sealer, as a firewall hole closer, to install window channels, I think I could stick a racoon to the garage door with this stuff.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Thanks joedoh. That would be a bad day for the raccoon. We have a raccoon that thinks our little back yard goldfish pond is a buffet. He growled at me one night.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I forgot about that stuff and I think I asked you about it once and everything! I was also thinking JB weld but I'll try that stuff first. I think I'll have to to a glob on my hand and reach in there, maybe wrap some clamps in plastic before I clamp it too... hate to have a clamp stuck in there. Do you use it as a seam sealer for inside AND outside the cab? I'll try to get some in the next day or two.

I painted the window frame and I have some waterproof silicone, adheres to metal, glass plastic, etc.. I'll get the windows set next.

I'm worried about the roller channel. The new rollers I put on the regulator look like they would bump into the heads of the bolts that hold it to the window frame. Does the rollers go that far or should I find flatter head screws?

Getting this sorta stuff done is pretty awesome. Feels like I'm getting more done lately.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

yes i use it inside and out, works great

the stock screw heads are pretty tall in the roller channel, I say try it, it probably wont hit anything.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Ok, I stopped and grabbed some fuse it. I reached in the best I could and got some sandpaper on it and I had just glob it into my hand, reach up and glob it on best I could.

Found a scrap board that fit into the channel, slid it down in and wedged it in place. Put a clamp on it just a little tight, didn't want to bend my door lol. Carefully closed the door and it says 4 to 6 hours to cure.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

It worked! Thanks joedoh! Today I replaced the rollers on passenger regulator and trimmed the channels to fit. Painted the other window frame and here in a bit I will set the glass in the frames and hopefully have nice clean operational windows tomorrow!

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Well, the part I replaced on the driver regulator bent. Spins spins spins but regulator does not work. Wasted money and time and im gonna order a regulator like I should have done.

Passenger glass is in though. Looks Awesome!

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

youre welcome. I bought that stuff on a whim, I used to use F26 construction adhesive as a seam sealer because it added stregnth to a joint, instead of just sealing like seam sealant, but the "anything to anything" bond of fuze-it was interesting. I used it on some window channels and after that, everything. :lol:

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got lazy today but did get around to ordering a new regulator.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Regulator came in and I have some fuel line ordered. Schools out tomorrow, unused weather day no inservice for me!, so I'll get the driver glass in and then fuze-it the window channels in place. While I have the fuze-it out I'll take care of some little spots while I'm at it.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I've been messing with this for an hour. I can't get the glass to go all the way up! Compared regulators, everything looks good. Channel isn't pinching... I'm at a loss.