Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Next is the recirculate function doors and actuators. For the most part there are dimples from the factory where you need to drill. The only place there aren't is for the cowl actuator mounting points, so that one takes a little bit of work. The assembly manual gives some dimensions for help.
I used a carb return spring for the cowl flap. I think the parts are being re-popped now. I found these parts used a while back before they were available.
I drilled that cowl inside pivot point from the interior side. The dimple is pressed from the cowl side but I wasn't even going to try that. Drilling from the interior was the obvious choice.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I'm a fan of thread inserts, I used them for most of the AC case mounting points. Most of these components were mounted with sheet metal screws. Not a fan of those.
I definitely wanted to use them for the high hump since the holes that someone added weren't really in the right place and I had to re-do them anyway.
I used a RotaBroach for the holes. It's a great tool for drilling into a spot where you may be overlapping an existing hole. Just use a very sharp center punch for the center pin locator.
These are all 1/4-20 inserts.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

There was a single rust spot in the cowl that I noticed a while back. It was just a small rust bubble, but I figured there was more to it.
I hit it with a drill and of course it was mostly rotten. Good times.
I started cutting and here's what I ended up with.
I'll get back to that eventually.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Good to see an update on your build, I always learn something. I too am a fan of threaded inserts, although I really dislike the manual tool I have for installing them. I will install inserts anywhere I think I may need to install/remove something that would require a helper or really long arms!

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I have the Cornwell tool that you can use with a drill. There’s a couple of brands and they all look the same except for the color of the tool housing.
It works well, but you have to be careful with the small size insert adapters because they can break. It's best to use a manual driver with them.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I considered investing in one of the Rivnut tools but the couple I've used @ work left a little to be desired. The higher end tools look enticing, but I doubt worth the coin vs how often it would be used for my situation.

I was using all-thread, GRADE-8 nuts/washers, & wrenches for the ones I've installed on my dually but found the small 'installer' set-ups in one of the hardware assortment sections for each size I use. These have shorter lengths like a carb or exhaust manifold stud. They've worked well & were <$10ea. I did my trans tunnel/hump & driveshaft tunnel covers w/them on my '64.

Nice work on the updates. Your thoroughness is noted :cool:

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Scoti; it feels thorough, like a really long welding session. I’m ready to be done with this cab. But the end is in sight!!

I tackled the cowl repair. It was time consuming because of where it is, I found that the belt sander and my dremel were the only tools that I could get in there to grind the weld. It’s not a visible area, but the recirc flap seats in there and I don’t want water to dam up either.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I did do some welding underneath, it wasn’t too bad. The leading edge wasn’t accessible from the top. It’s in the multiple seam area and will get seam sealed.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I had been looking at the cab for a couple of years now with most of the seam sealer removed. I scraped it out soon after I got it to determine the overall condition. The whole time, my eye was caught by the area around the windshield and how big those gaps are.
No time like the present, the welder is out and ready...

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Now that the genie is out of the bottle, I may as well do something at the bottom of the windshield opening.
This took a bit more work since the gap is huge and the 2 sides across the gap aren’t level.
I pie cut the inside part and shaped it to lower it, then welded it closed.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

The driver side pics show the pie cut better.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

And now to close that gap.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

And the other side.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Those closed gaps look great

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I liked how you cleaned up those gaps. I never noticed how awkward that transition is on the lower corner from the factory. I know that area is covered by the cowl but it still seems like a great place for water to get in. Also, why did you add the hole in the red circle on the passenger side?

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Thanks, it was a lot of work. Seems like an improvement to me.

Ya, that lower corner opening is huge. I'm hoping it will help the windshield gasket seal better. It won't really be visible. The idea of "sculpting" seam sealer to make a sealing surface over a 1/4" gap for the rubber gasket didn't make much sense to me.

The top corners are more for the visual effect, but it's also a weird are to have to hide with seam sealer.

The hole is for the antenna cable, located per the assembly manual. This may have been a radio delete cab. I don't remember if it even had an antenna or cable before.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I'm sure your welds are good, but don't hold back on replacing all of the factory seam sealer.

If you look at and think about the whole cowl, firewall, windshield water flow it is amazing that these cabs don't leak like a sieve.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Oh it's getting sealed up correctly. All of those seams that are still there will let water in behind. I'll also be using internal cavity wax after the paint.

Yeah, it's amazing these survived over the years. And it explains why they almost all need rockers and such by this point in time.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I did get one unpleasant surprise when I pulled my improvised exhaust apart. The right collector has some oil residue in it. The driver side was dry. I will update when I get it to work, do a leak down test and figure it out. Probably looking at a rebuild, with LQ9 flat top pistons.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Oh no... that's a bummer! Am I recalling correctly that you had low compression on some cylinders? Is this on the same side as that? Were there any indications when running that you'd find an issue like this? I know, so many questions! I'm wondering because I have to pull the front half of my exhaust off to add cats and I'm hoping I don't have a similar discovery.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

The low compression holes were on both sides. I don't recall which ones. I have it written down at home.
It idled fine every time I ran it, but idle and load are very different states so it would have probably presented when driving.
It may be something as simple as valve seals, or not. We shall see.
Hopefully yours is fine. There's lots of these engines out there with tons of miles, so fingers crossed for you.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Enter the suck!
Cleaning up the underside is not a fun job.
I chipped off the undercoat where it was thick, and scraped it where it was thin. Then I wire brushed it with various brushes on drills and grinders.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

The selection of highly dangerous tools. Nothing beats picking shed-off wires out of your arms.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Here’s the 1/8” reinforcement pieces for the Tahoe seats. Should be pretty secure.
I spaced my rosettes similar to the factory spot welds at 1.5”-2”. I added the perimeter welds at about 1” intervals.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Time to strip the roof while it’s vertical. The HF tool got it done.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Looks good to me.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

More stripping.
If you can afford to have the cab sandblasted, do it. I have a ton of time in this thing.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

And here’s the first time it’s been outside overnight for probably 3 years.
Very happy to take this to my buddy for body/paint.
The quickie tarp job was just in case it rained. It came off before I hauled it.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

That's a nice homemade cab dollie you have there.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

It’s been very handy. It’s a lifesaver for repairs and mobility. The only thing I’d maybe change would be to make it lighter weight.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Yes, progress! That's some dedication to the cause right there with stripping the paint like that.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Thanks, it's been quite the job.
Now time to make my transmission crossmember.
Lay it out, tack it up, test fit, and finish.
Yes, it was crooked in the tape measure pic. It's off-balanced on one of my fancy jacks. I did straighten it up before I finalized the measurements.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Nice fabrication work. I built one almost identical and found my transmission was bouncy when done. It wasn't confidence inspiring so I ended up buying a new one that had a better design. It was only 80 bucks and it stiffened up the drivetrain. Hopefully you won't have the issue I did.:waah:

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I was worried about that, so I used thick wall tube. I stood on it after I finished it, with the weight of the transmission on it, and there was no deflection. Hopefully it performs well in action.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I like how you have yours mounted on the top of the framerails. Mine goes straight across the bottom rails which forced me to run the exhaust very close to the floorboard. Will you have enough clearance with this design to still keep the exhaust above the bottom of the framerails?

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

It should clear. The header collectors are even with the bottom of the frame, and the exhaust will have to kick up a bit to go thru the trailing arm crossmember.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

On the subject of heat shields, I decided to take a page from new car design and add some.
I started out just doing the driver side to protect my fuel line. I had a piece of heat shield left over from my dealer days that I figured would be adequate.
The more I looked at it, the more sense it made to add a second one to the passenger side. The wood is for mockup, I didn’t take a pic of the final piece. I’ll use some slip rolled thin sheet with the DEI stick on shield and go from the transmission x-member all the way to the trailing arm one.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Time for some plumbing.
I’ll attach the filter supply/return lines to the bed underside with some P clamps.
Running plastic from the frame to the engine.
I may hook up the purge line to a charcoal can, or I may not. Just giving the option. If I do, it'll be plastic line back to the can.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Pulled the engine/trans and made up brake lines.
NiCopp for the win

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I played around with flipping the trailing arm mounts. (Not in chronological order)
In the flipped position I get 10deg up on the pinion and not much room to run exhaust.
In the stock position I get 5 deg up and more room for exhaust.
I elected to leave them in the stock orientation.
I'll be going 4-5 max drop in the rear so this should work.
The crossmember exhaust cutouts are just rough cut. I finished them off later.