Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I used bed frame rails to secure the rear floor panel. I had to beat the 90 degree angle to about 120 degrees and then straighten everything back out in the vise because it developed a curve toward the spine. I bolted the first angle to the bottom where the doors close. I cut the radius it of the rear floor pan so it was straight across. The angle of the floor where the latch was ending up being perfect, so I bolted the angle iron down and stitch welded the floor pan to it. Then I drilled the top of the panel and install nut-serts so the panel will be removable, in case I need access to whatever is behind it. I still have to stitch weld the panel to the bottom angle iron and drill a hole for the spare tire tool to lower the spare, but it's getting there.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

Just making more panels. Welded the rear panel to the bottom angle iron and painted with roll bar epoxy paint.

Then I made lower splash pans to keep most of the water and debris kicked up by the rear wheels from getting all over the tail light wiring and fuel filler neck access holes.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

For the up access floor pans, I made a support bracket that attaches to the top threads of the bolt that secures the splash pans. I installed nut-serts and used a j-clip on the top of the support bracket to secure the edge of the panel closest to the wall.

You may also notice the extra hole in the rear panel. That's to access the spare tire crank with the square drive tool.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

will you also cut a hole and plug it with a rubber grommet where the shock bolts are, for future maintenance access?
looks way better when the panels are on to close things up. keep plugging away and it will be done.

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

wondering if your air bag compressor will get hot if not in the open air like factory? run it and see? lots of guys have disabled the air bags and installed the coils back there anyway as the compressor is pretty spendy as well as the air bags if they need replacement at some point. bags get a leak, compressor runs overtime to keep up and then quits entirely. guys get a quote and decide to go coils instead. kit is available apparently. air bag height sensors are a pain to adjust for proper ride height as the system takes a bit to self level and find it's new height. trust me, I have done this before-too high-nope, just too high on the right ot left- too low- grrrr. try not to mess with them and life will be better. haha. maybe a scanner could tell you what the inouts from each sensor are-no scanner in my shop presently.

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

None of the panels are air tight. The splash panels were only intended to deflect debris coming off the rear tires. My original thought was to make a small vertical plate by the tail light wiring access hole to keep debris from collecting and rotting out the body panels over time. But when I saw there was almost a straight shot from the 2 bolt holes left on the fender well and the rear panel where the original wooden floor was, I thought that was the better option. I thought about making louvers to drain any water that got trapped and, like you mentioned with air flow, but we'll see what happens and I'll address any issues as they arise.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I can assure you he won’t have overheating issues as that compressor only ran once a week if that and for no more than 5 seconds. The air ride on that works perfect as I’ve already gone through the compressor last year

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

just thinking out loud, would it be a good idea t have the inside sealed from the outside so as not to get exhaust fumes drawn inside the car, especially on a low vehicle where the exhaust exit does not clear the body? also, simply for dust and noise coming in?

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

All my cars are like that. All the trim is missing on my 65 wagon, so some exhaust gets sucked in through the trim holes. On the 68 wagoneer, I accidentally bowed the roof, so the rear glass doesn't seat fully in the middle. You could stick a ruler between the glass and the track.

On the plus side, if there's ever an issue where I'm leaking coolant or burning oil, I know pretty quick if there's an issue because I'll smell it.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I'm sure you know. Carbon monoxide, colorless, odorless, toxic, product of combustion. You'll prolly get a headache, feel sluggish, nauseated. Takes awhile to clear out of your system. Your truck, you do it like you want, careful for passengers though.
Coming along nicely. Gonna be driving soon.

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I swapped tires from front to back to see if I could run the 245/50r18s on all 4 corners, but not without raising the front suspension, so that's not gonna happen right now. The rocker height front and rear is about 6 inches and I think it looks perfect.

So I went ahead and secured the driver's side dog leg of the front fender.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I have thought that my truck may be too low for my tire size choice. it is short to the ground as well (57 sitting on 04 Envoy).
I think I could easily install a body lift if needed. like a 4x4 guy would do, add spacers above the body mounts and see if that is what I want or if it does what I need. if it works buy a body lift kit for an envoy (yup, lots of those around, haha)

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

Or in this case keep it simple by putting stock springs back in the front since I had previously lowered the saab. Or anyone else could use strut spacers

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I have a set of struts with adjustable height spacers in the spring pad area. just a thought on that, for anybody lurking, the ball joint area on the upper control arms is a weak spot and guys on the trailvoy website, who lift the trailblazers, say they break there. somebody built an aftermarket part that is much stronger.
just info

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

It already has aftermarket tubulars. Sorry josh, I won’t say any more.

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

You know more about the Saab than I do. You're not doing anything wrong as far as I'm concerned.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I finished patching the floor pans, sealed the cracks with Seam sealer and painted everything with epoxy paint.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

My spare tire came in today, so I mounted it on the rim and installed it under the back.

I put the rest of the carpet in and installed the interior. I also wired up all the lights, except the headlights. I have harnesses coming so I can run all 4 low beams and high beams without melting the factory wiring.

I also drove it to the gas station. The rear tires barely scrub the outer edge of the inner fender wells. It's slow to fill, which is a little annoying, but it also could have been a sensitive fuel pump handle. The flowmaster sounds really good, since I currently don't have the back doors installed yet, lol.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

nice.
try a different gas pump next time maybe.
do the tires rub both sides or just one? curious if an adjustable pan hard bar would remedy that. you could center the axle between the space available and make sure to have the panhard set so it is level at ride height, that way the amount of side to side change will be equal on an upstroke or a down srroke of the suspension. thas if a little adjustment of the inner fenders doesn't cure the rub issue. it would suck to burn up a set of new tires.

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

did you bypass all the electronics for the door locks etc or have them programmed out maybe? it's not setting any codes for you?

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

And now that it's dark outside, I can get pictures of the tail lights, brake lights and reverse lights. The turn signals flash too fast to get a picture.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I haven't done anything about the door locks. It's still set to lock and unlock the doors when it's put in gear and in park, but nothing's plugged in. No codes or issues. I didn't do anything about them on the Jeep either. I just used the wiring for the features I wanted and tucked the remaining wires out of the way.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

Plus we both know what we can do about any codes that do set. Ah hahaha

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

looking at the pics I can't believe your front tires dont rub on turns over a bump, they gotta be close. looks cool though.
electronic flasher should fix your fast signal, you already knew that though, haha

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

The Saab has a different flasher than the trailblazer. I looked everywhere for an LED specific relay and it doesn't exist. I'll put some load resistors in line to slow it down.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

It does have a panhard bar, but it's not adjustable. I'll see what I can see tomorrow before I make any decisions.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

yeah, load resistors are prolly your best bet since the ac delco flasher unit looks like a one off.

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I got rid of the tiny sport mirrors. My dad's 59 has these suburban tow mirrors on it and I like the visibility. Since the Saab had turn signals in the side view mirrors, I added these clear lens LED lights with a stainless bezel.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

Did the trailblazer also have the ground lights when the door opens? They sell those button led in clear as well if so and you were so inclined to use them.

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I believe those are called perimeter lights. I'm not sure if the Saab has them, but I know what you're talking about

I put red LED lights on the sides of the rear bumper for side marker lights

Also I removed the rear wheels and used a ball peen hammer to massage the fender well just a bit. I also adjusted the ride height a bit to get some more clearance. Your can see the evidence on the side wall.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

well, good you caught it right away. some dead blow hammer strikes may also work well, it's my go to before the heavy aetillary comes out, haha.
lights look good. I have some of those that are clear lens but light up red. truklite I think.

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

Here's the various stages of body work around the tail lights. I usually always start with all metal body filler and then try to use minimal body filler.

The bad news is that I hate body work. The good news is that body work means it's getting closer to being a driver.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

Progress on the headlight filler panels. The passenger side was worse, so I'll spare your pictures of the driver's side.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

The only other body work I'm doing, besides painting the new wiper cowl I bought, is behind the passenger rear wheel. I ground out as much as I could and filled it with all metal.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

Almost finished with the body work. Got a little more putty to do on the passenger headlight, but it's close to paint. Since it's not up on the lift, I forgot about the part behind the passenger rear tire. I'll get to it soon enough.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I finished up the body work around the headlights and on the rear wheel opening. Once I get everything I want painted prepped, I'll try to do it all in one shot.

Also, my power window regulators came in today. Looks like I'll be tackling the doors this weekend.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I got rid of the goofy license plate bracket and wanted a cleaner look. I put nut-serts in the door and bought a license plate frame with tag light and 3rd brake light built in.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I didn't see a way to lock the rear doors, so I ordered a new door lock set and replaced the push button with a keyed button. The driver's door and rear door will having matching locks. I'll have to reach over to lock/unlock the passenger door from the inside. That what we do in dad's 59 pickup, so we're already used to it.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I got my load resistors in so I wired them in line to slow the flashing rate on the turn signals. With that taken care of, I wired up the headlights with the new harnesses. I had to put the camera on night mode to get pictures of the low and high beams. And I installed the front bumper side marker lights.

-Josh

Re: 1958 Saab story
 

I like the headlights. You’re making great progress.