Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

All this while waiting for filler to dry between rounds of sanding. My arms (and my resolve) are tired. I think it’s finally getting close...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It'll all be worth it when you can open that hood with pride to show it off! I've got a few things that I want to get painted under my hood before I'll be really happy to open it for people.

Keep going, you're getting so close. When you get it back on the road, I may have to fly up there to check it all out and get a ride in it.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks great Chris!!! My '98 has been pretty needy lately and it's been good watching you get stuff done...hoping to get back on track with my '72 soon!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You know you’re welcome any time, we have a place for you to lay your head. If all goes well, I’ll be bringing it a little closer to you this summer, prayers in and fingers crossed. No ride required, you can chauffeur me this time :lol:
Thanks! The OBS trucks need love, too. I’m kinda hoping one of my kids wants a truck so I can build one...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

‘Nother little project, speaking of under hood. Got rid of the Holley logo on the intake runner using a half-round, some 80 grit to smooth out the scratches, then 40 grit and a body hammer to recreate the as-cast look. Hoping it all but disappears once primed/painted. There will still be logos remaining on the Holley fuel rails and the Wilwood master cylinder cover; will see if they bother me bad enough to do something about it.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The manifold looks great. I wanted to file off the Edelbrock logo from my intake before I painted it, but didn't because I didn't want to have to smooth the whole thing. I wish I would have thought of your method.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Stole the idea from the HAMB. Masters of making things look “correct” over there

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It is all looking very good. I agree with Steven (yes, miracles happen :lol: ) that the work on the firewall will beam out everytime you open her up!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Woo Hoo! Marking it on my calendar, Bill!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice work on the Intake Chris! Looks great!:metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I sure hope so, this sanding stuff is for the birds...
Thanks Mike! One chip at a time, chip, chip, chip...

This look like progress to anyone else? Yeah, me either. I think at some point soon good enough is gonna be good enough for me.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

What type of paint did you use to paint the engine?

Which throttle body is this?

And... What harness and ECU are you using?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I understand what you're saying, but you're at warp speed compared to where I'm at! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The paint is Seymour EN-48. According to my google searches it’s the most correct color and sheen with the best durability out of a rattle can. Pretty happy with how it laid out, though the pigment is a little thin and requires multiple coats. Can’t yet speak to durability.

Throttle body is a 92mm from Warr Performance. Pretty much the same China version that lots of sellers have available, but Warr takes the time to fix the minor issues that many of them have so that it’s a bolt-on, no hassle affair. Again, google/forums say it’s good, we’ll see. Looks/feels like a nice part in my hands.

For the harness/ECM I was planning on using GM, but just picked up a FiTech standalone 70050. This lets me delete the MAF which was making the air cleaner sit too high, while utilizing all of the other factory sensors/coils/injectors, etc. It also uses wideband O2s which should theoretically make tuning easier/faster.

The main reason for grabbing the FiTech was time savings as reworking the stock harness and ECM would be very time consuming and I gotta get this beast going before we move next summer. If I was running a stock engine, stock stuff would be a no-brainer, but I gotta be difficult :lol: If it sucks/I hate it, I can always go back to GM or Holley for a harness/ECM, though both of those options are more expensive and/or take longer to get going.
Thanks for that, the repetitive sanding is keeeeling me :D

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

After a few more rounds of filler, glaze, and being covered in sanding dust, I layed the first round of primer (looking splotchy while it dries). This first coat is mostly to get it all in one color so I can more easily identify any flaws. I’ve found a few things that require some attention, but I’d say it’s around 90% done with body work.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the info on the paint, how many cans did you use on your engine? The reason I ask these questions is that we are picking up an LS1 this weekend and I'm not 100% sure how we'll outfit it in our truck. We have the FiTech Go EFI 4 600hp throttle body unit on our 350/700r4 set up, so an LS1/700r4 with the throttle body is a possibility. The self learning capacity is a huge attribute but it also a limiting factor. Getting help from a local tuner is impossible because they can't use HP Tuners or the like and don't want to tune it the hard way. Money, as always, will have an influence on the decisions but overall performance and tune-ability will be first and foremost. The first decision we've made is of course to use the LS1 long block. The second decision is to use the competent but much less expensive Holley accessory drive versus the Billet Specialties system we have on our 350. The third absolute is the use of Hooker LS manifolds, so clean and simple. Beyond those three decisions, I've yet to decide weather we will keep the current FiTech system with the 700r4, swap to the FiTech Retro LS system, use the Delmo throttle body adapter on a carb manifold, or use the stock LS1 manifold and throttle body. Needless to say there is some decision making in our future. I really like the old school look of a carb, especially on an LS (I don't like the look of the intake tube) so that may be a major factor. We'll have to see where it goes... Anyway, you've got great momentum, keep up the great work!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, I agree on the lack of liking an intake tube, unless there’s a reason like a turbo or centrifugal supercharger :D We’ve discussed this before, but I think you’re money ahead and heartache behind by using your current throttle body with the MSD timing control. Keep it simple or succumb to the snowball...

I have used, thus far, 3 cans of the Seymour: 2 on the longblock and most of one on the adapters and valve covers. I foresee at least one more for the intake and water pump, so if I’m lucky four total.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yep, the path of least resistance is to use my stuff and just swap in the LS1, I already have the flywheel adapter and flywheel that's required for the LS1/700r4 combo. We'd like to swap the cam for something that sounds wild, maybe a BTR or a Thumper from Comp Cams, and a stall converter to help it get into the power. I am mildly worried about burning up the 700r4 with more power but we can deal with that if/when it happens. Thanks for the quantities on the paint, did you buy online? Amazon?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thumpr cams do sound BA, but are known to be hard to make cooperate, especially with an auto. Suggest sticking to a healthy, power producing cam with a tight LSA to give you the idle chop. BTR is the cam of choice currently, but that seems to change every couple of years. Hard to beat their prices and customer service. They are supposed to be very good with helping you choose a cam if you call and tell them your goals/desires. I did a lot of reading on LS1tech and listened to a bunch of clips on you tube before ordering.

I am lucky enough to have a local place that stocks the Seymour engine paints, so I just swing by there and grab it. Amazon does carry it, but if I recall, it was kind of expensive. In the absence of Amazon deals, I usually search eBay and sort by lowest price with free shipping...

Looking forward to seeing yours come together!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The firewall saga continues, day 537 :lol:

More sanding, this time with 400 grit. Found a few minor imperfections that I filled, then sanded some more. Finished off the day with another coat of primer. I think it’s looking pretty good, but looking at it from different angles, there are a couple of spots I’m not 100% happy with, so more sanding and filling again tomorrow :waah: I feel the end is nigh...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The firewall looks outstanding, and you've done it yourself which is WAY more than I can say, truck's gonna be killer when you get it back on the road. (See how I didn't say "finished" :lol:)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks pretty damn good in the pictures. I can't seem to fi.... Oh wait, you missed a spot. :haha: Just kidding. Seriously though, it looks great. Keep it up!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks. So true, they’re never really done. Can only hope to be driving it again soon
If anyone could identify areas that need attention, it’s you. I remember following your firewall mods, I just don’t remember it taking this long :lol:

You can kinda tell from the shadows in the areas at the top above the A/C area and just above the parking brake “hump”. I grabbed a new durablock to help with getting those areas flat. Once I complete that, along with a few little niggles inside the wiring gutter, I think I’ll finally be happy with it...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Oh, it took long, I probably didn't post it right after I did the work... Or maybe I knocked it out over a few weekends because I really wanted it done (filler work at least). I know my metal fab took FOREVER!!! Or at least that's how it felt. I also didn't have a distraction in the form of a K5. :lol:

I think you're grasping at straws... I can't see anything on my screen. You'll get it though. Progress, no matter how slow, is still progress and better than the alternative. You're doing good... keep going!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Intake looks nice, Chris. The HAMBers do go to the extreme, no doubt. It will look good painted!
Firewall looks very nice, can't wait to see when it's done!