Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the boost, this will be a big hurdle that allows lots of reassembly to occur.
Thanks buddy!

Progress report: I took a break from sanding to do some, um, sanding. What kind of psychopath wet sands and polishes his valve covers? This kind... Perfectionism is a disease. I’m leaving these at 90%, good enough :smoke:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hahaha I thought I was the only guy who does this kind of :crazy: thing! You've got an eye for detail! This thread has been extremely motivational for me to get my truck back on the road. Outstanding work. :bo2:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks a lot. You’ve got some heavy metal work going, keep up the good work.

The eye for detail is a blessing and a curse. Nothing is ever good enough...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

your manifold looks great, nice job on that. I have done this twice, but ended up sending my manifold to Lamar Walden's shop (the 409 guy) just north of atlanta for a tumble in his manifold smoothing thingy machine. Was described a as a big dryer with walnut shells in it - not sure how accurate that is, but the marks all but disappeared (removed an Edelbrock casting) - I was leaving them bare - and it also transformed the dirt-trapping aftermarket casting into smooth gm-like casting finish. I do believe yours will be practically invisible after paint.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The firewall and valve covers look great! Keep at it..

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Chris, it's been ages since I've been on here and I have to say it looks great bro, can't wait to see it in person.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

What did you use to clean and prep the engine for paint?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, Mike!
Thanks Mike, too! Hopefully soon...
Sorry for the delay, hope it’s not too late. Initial clean was with oven cleaner to get rid of the gunk, then simple green/power purple/whatever skin-eating acid cleaner I had around with various brushes, rags, scrapers, and implements, then final prep with laquer thinner and 3M scrubbies. Lots and lots and lots of time spent in all of the little books and crannies.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ok, folks. Need to some honest input, here. My original plan was to do everything under hood in black and orange, like a truck engine, but I kindof accidentally mocked up the engine like a late ‘60s hipo car big block and I also kindof accidentally like it. Thoughts?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It reminds me of this style, though I’m not sure I’d go so far as to do crossed flags and tonowanda decals.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Chris, I think the engine looks great. Personally I like some color comtrast, and the only time I do blocks in black is to help hide any leaks :lol:

I hate cleaning crud off more than about anything else on a project, but it's so nice when it's done.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like it, think that it would look good in the truck. I have always liked the hi-po car big block look.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It looks good like it is, but you know I like the black and orange more. I will say that if you go with it like it is, you better powdercoat that intake an aluminum color because it won't stay pretty very long in the elements. I would seal up those billet valve covers too.

Where does the A/C compressor mount?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm kind of wishing I had painted my engine black right about now! :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks. I like some contrast, too, but I’m concerned it might be a little busy :confused:
I do think it would pair well with the “muscle” feel of the truck with the Muncie, Hurst with white shift ball, and grey spoke wheels.
You bring up good points, which I’m not sure I’m committed enough to the look to properly remedy. I would paint or powder the intake and probably chrome the VCs. My other option is to do similar to what you did with a scuff and shoot. Honestly, I only grabbed the billet specialties covers because I didn’t want any oil leaks with the stamped steel stockers. I definitely don’t want something I’ll have to polish all of the time, I learn from others’ mistakes :exit:

The plan for the AC compressor is stock-ish location. Need to get the motor back in and see if plan A (Alan Grove with current compressor) will work. I fear it will interfere with the steering rack, so then on to plan B (Dirty Dingo or Holley). If. One of that works, maybe I’ll save my pennies for a Holley mid mount setup or just go ahead and install that rear sliding glass I want :lol:

LS engines don’t leak, just sayin’ ;)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Touche'!

I know, I know... But I have WAY too much invested in my little small block to change directions now. Brandi will kill me!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Personally I would like the black and orange, nothing shinin' up the joint. Subtle is sexy.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I think you hit the nail on the head Chris, I think It's perfect the way it is, I love the orange.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks damn good brother, simple but tuff

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Tough decision...I think either way you go is going to look great....I really like the pics a few posts back!! :cool:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That's a tough one. I did mine all orange and black and I like it, but I see the muscle car look in the current color scheme you have and it looks nice too. I do agree that you'll need to do something with the aluminum pieces though. You'll be polishing like crazy if you don't. And that intake won't look good for long if it's left bare.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Though not an LS, I did it. I wanted the older Musclecar period look for my later model Squarebody TBI equipped set-up. While mine IS a big-block, the newer stuff bared very little visual resemblance to it's Musclecar precedent.

I had the factory painted steel valve covers chromed because they were:
A) Cheap
B) I already possessed them
C) After comparing to TRUE 70's era BBC chrome v.covers, they were much smoother.

I used an Edelbrock TBI intake vs. the cast iron BBC intake w/the TBI adapter & a period correct dual snorkel air cleaner to top it off.
I re-routed wiring & other asthetics to appear less electronic. I liked the older look once finished.
I also did the 'Built by Chevrolet Tonawanda' v.cover & 454 air cleaner engine displacement decals to finish off the 'look'. The repop decals didn't survive underhood life for long before coming apart & have been removed...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Wow! I really like the look now.
I'm not a fan of the orange and black.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I agree, but this made me re-think my former stance on the subject
Thanks, it does have a nice classic look to it
Agreed, thanks
Super tough, I’m still not decided. I do have a few more ideas, too
That’s the thing, not sure I’m in love with it enough to make it permanent
I really like the air cleaner setup. Is that the LT1/Z28 base?
Thanks, I’m still undetermined. I like a simple, stock look, usually

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Another variant. Pretty sure the water pump will be orange and the accessories black no matter what else happens...