Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I couldn't make into work today, so why not stay inside and work on more drawings.:lol: It's progress. I just finished the speedo and rt pod schematics. Now just need to tie up the loose ends with an overall schematic with everything hooked to the american wire harness. It's a lot easier than haveing a bunch of wire laying on the floor.

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Inspiring me Alan.. i have to take my last ASE test on wiring would you like to take it for me?? :lol:

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Your going to make me go pull my gages out arn't you.;) I hope it snows like hell in GA.

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Another picture....?

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...ireDiagram.gif

In some cases when you try to shut the vehicle off, power from the alternator can feed up to the coil and keep the engine running. To cure this you can install a diode in the ignition wire that activates the #1 terminal. This will stop the power from feeding back up the ignition line. These are buck or two at Radio Shack, just be sure to put the stripe end toward the alternator to stop any flow.

Danny aka: Sparky :lol:

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Alan,
I've got a 'BRAND NEW STILL IN THE BOX' American Auto-Wire waiting for me to get off my deadbutt and install it. Are you go'na shame me into being productive....? :lol:

Sure you can TEE off the brown wire.... :metal:

If the BROWN WIRE feeds to the coil, then I would put the aforementioned diode between the TEE and the GREEN LIGHT. This will keep backflow from feeding the coil. But, if ya put the diode between the alternator and the Green Light, (and the diode is working properly), the GREEN LIGHT might not go out as it should not receive any positive power from that direction...! At least in theory..... :D

Danny

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:haha: at me taking an electrical test. Back 20 something years ago I knew a little more about electricity when I was getting my airframe and powerplant license. I've slept a lot since then. :lol:

Yep...........but your making a lot of progress on yours. I'm sitting here dreaming. I'm tired of the ice. The snow was fun. I'm ready for spring.

Question about statement in blue above. The brown wire goes straight from #1 on alt to ign switch. The feed to the dizzy comes straight from ign. switch. Can the power back feed go thru the ign switch? (Idon't see how) I posted a pic of the american wire kit below that shows the optional diode. Should I go ahead and utilize it? What kind of diode do I ask for at Radio Shack? --Edit-- Never mind about what I need to ask for at Radio Shack. I see it in your pic.

That's exactly what I'm trying to do........motivate. :haha: Do you have your American wire schematic handy? The top brown wire on the ign switch doesn't feed the coil as far as I can tell. As you can probably tell the placement (if needed) of the diode is confussing to me. I understand it lets power flow in one direction. That's about it. Thanks for your time with this. ;)

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Is this a great forum or what. :metal::metal::metal::metal::metal::metal:

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Amen Brother!!

OK, I think I have the schematic all done that ties my gauges to the American Wire harness with the needed QD's to enable me to remove the insturment pods individualy. It's all good in theory, until I'm hanging upside down under the dash trying to make it work. I'm thinking I can do most of it on the bench. There is no guarantee that this will work yet. There is still the question of the diode, but that can be done later. It might be confusing but makes complete sense to me. :lol: I just want a nice and neat functional harness that people say Wow!! (in a good way) The kids markers came in real handy doing all of this. ;)

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Can we start all over I'm confused.........:hmm:

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Ok Alan,

I got the schematic in my hand, (wine glass in the other), and it would appear that the PINK WIRE powers the ignition coil and the BROWN WIRE goes to the fuse block where ORANGE to Engine Fan, BROWN to AC/HEAT, TAN to accessory connector,as well as TAN to the Radio all branch off.

The BROWN from the Alternator runs DOTED LINE to the fuse block where it meets with the BROWN from the Ignition Switch.

I would place your GREEN LIGHT in series with the BROWN wire from the alternator without any diode, as the PINK wire feeds the coil and is not conected to the BROWN wire anywhere that I can see.... If you put an Ohm meter on the ignition switch and find the PINK & BROWN terminals are still conected with the key in the OFF POSITION, you should put the diode in the DOTTED BROWN WIRE between your GREEN LIGHT & the fuse block.

And if that doesn't work as I claim, I'll cut my Tech Support Fee by 50%, :pty: or you can pull my chain...!

My schematic looks a little different from what I can see of yours.
Mine is part # 500560 'FULL VEHICLE WIRING KIT 1960-66 CHEVY/GMC TRUCK'...
Danny

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Alan if your nice maybe Dave will put you a Diode in the mail to you.

Dave I already instaled the diode in the harness that you bought from me. And theres a couple extra in the Purple Pampers box.

Alan yes you need to install the Diode. If you go to turn off the ignition power will still feed through and not let the the alt from sending a charge. It's just like putting a check valve in a air system.

It's actully funny, with my painless harness I hooked it all up and started up the truck and was wondering why it wouldn't turn off. I guess I didn't see that part in the instructions about the diode.

66bowtie where you from in the hill country?

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Hey Paul,

We have a little Bat Cave out here in the Sticks, not too far from 'Pull-My-Finger Texas'. Ya go west til ya smell it, then north til ya step in it.... :mm:

I could draw you a map, but I think would be a violation of the Witness Protection Program... :ito:

P.S. I liked your Spinner Hupcap Video and God bless & thank you and your bros for your service.:flag:

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That was a good one.

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I guess some sweet talking is in store. :lol: Hey Dave your one cool dude..........will that do it. :uhmk:

That's funny.:lol:

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Parts in the mail.;)

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Thanks Dave, you da man!!
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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I got my order in from performance Plus Connection. I ordered it Friday and was here today. :metal: Very nice people. I found them on ebay and called them direct.

Thanks Dave, I got the diode today. I don't know much about diodes so I ask this question. The one in the diagram Danny posted is a PN 276-1143 and the one from Paul and Dave is a 276-1661. Any idea on the differences. I guess I could get on Radio shacks website and see................I hyper linked the PN's above for their technical info. It looks like the 1143's are a 3 amp 200v and the 1661's are a 6 amp 50v Vrm if I'm understanding them right. There is a lot of info on the back of the package I have. I don't understand most of it. :uhmk:

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Hey Alan,
Anything above 16 volts & 1 amp should be more than enough the stop any flow. Just make sure the end with the strips are towards the alternator.
Danny:chevy:

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Hey Alan, Changing the subject a little but I was looking at your build thread and was checking out your work on the C10 bed. Im still learning all this metal work and body work as I do this for a hobby. I have been watching my uncle for years that does bodywork for a living. He attended a seminar and they were talking about not putting body filler on top of bare metal, that you should prime the metal with an etching primmer sealer then do your mud work on top of that. They said the body filler hardens and causes the metal to sweat and create rust under the filler. I see guys building high end cars on tv and magizines putting filler all over bare metal. Whats your thoughts on this. I have been using the dynalight filler from carquest. any thoughts on this subject will be appreciated.

my build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=439559

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Thanks Danny. Just got to round up some wire and I can start making the gauge harness.

I will let the manufacturer of the product tell you in the quote below.

Quote:

Q. Can Evercoat fillers be applied over bare metal? Can they be applied over paint? A. Our fillers are designed to work over bare, properly prepared substrates such as: steel, aluminum, galvanized, stainless steel, fiberglass, and SMC. Some people prefer applying an epoxy primer over bare substrates to enhance corrosion protection. Our products don’t need to be applied over an epoxy for corrosion protection as long as the bare surface area is clean and no surface rust or contamination is present. However, some auto manufacturers do require body technicians to coat the bare metal surface with an epoxy before applying fillers. If you are performing warranty work, you should consult the manufacturer of the automobile for the recommended procedure. Fillers and putties will normally work OK over properly sanded (80-180 grit) cured OEM paint. However, with so many different types of aftermarket paint available (lacquer, enamel, urethane, water-based). We recommend that all paint be removed where filler is to be applied.

I use Rage Extreme. Here is a link to more info on this product. I've been in the body shop for 15 years and have never experienced that problem with any products I've used. I was at one shop for 8.5 years and the current job for 7 years. Most of my repairs is over bare metal. I have never had a failure in the adhesion properties of any filler. I've used several types, but have been using rage Extreme for 8-10 years. There are too many factors that can affect a proper repair. i.e. location like close to the coast, humidity and of coarse the technicians practices to name a few. I just read the manufacturers recommendation and use my own experiences to do the best repair possible.;)

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Alan that diode was the one that was suggested by painless to use with their harness. It works great.

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10-4 Thanks Paul!!

I did'nt want to spend money money on a bunch of different colored wire just to use some short pieces. I had some old harnesses laying around with a bunch of different colored wires. If I had my harness in the truck I would have some scraps left over that would work. I found this web site http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/aw...uge-d_731.html that shows what wire gauge actual diameters are. Most in these harnesses are 18 gauge. I'd feel better using 16 gauge on most of it. The american wire gauges are 16. I say that because they measured out to be .050". Am I correct by saying that?

I also found this chart I use to use many years ago studying for my A&P. Don't ask me to explain it. :lol:

I also remebered tonight I have to get some dash lights for the gauges.

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alan, i'm a bodyman as well and i considered myself a medicore fabricator till i saw your work, ALL HAIL ALAN! the dash swap is nothing short of beautiful, I love it! keep up the good work I cant wait to see this thing finished

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Hey Alan,
I really enjoy following your build, cause you always have some great links. The Ohm's Chart and Engineering Tool Box was the best.
Thanks.
Danny :chevy:

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Thanks for the kudos! I've still got a lot to learn. Yeah, I can't wait for it to be finished as well. ;)

Thanks Danny, speaking of which I was looking for some LED dash lights and ran across this web site http://www.superbrightleds.com/ if they don't have it it probably isn't made yet. I just did a quick look see and they have a bunch to offer. I posted it here so I won't forget the website. ;)

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This wiring thing, if I hadn't already said, is a trial and error situation. :lol: I couldn't wait to get out to the shop and try to wire up something. The more I studied it the more I realized I need to do the gauge wiring in the truck. If I was more experienced at it I could do it on the bench, maybe. In a nut shell I did one wire, and it was the one that goes to the clock from batt power. Installing the fuse block and running the gauge harness from American Wire I should have the excess I need to complete the home made gauge harness. Sounds good in theory. Here are some pics of my my first wire. Took a little figuring out since the instructions didn't match the crimper.

BTW I emailed Super Brite LED's to ask them if they had a LED that would go into a 5/8" hole for the gauge lights. I looked around the site some more and couldn't locate exactly what I needed. There were some twist locks, but no snap ins. So we'll see.

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Sweet into the wiring already!!

One trick I have seen wiring guys use when making harnesses is to use a piece of plywood and then use 6 penny finishing nails to create routes for wires and then lay out the wire in between the nails then break out wires off of the main trunk in bundles and then they can bundle it and tape it for a nice neat look.

Don't know if you are planning on completely making you harness or not but thought I would throw this out there

I have friend who is great with wiring if you need help let me know he has been working on and restoring cars all his life, he has built high performance boats from the hull up for years he also has had his own business rigging boats has a great resume and he is currently working at a restoration shop near Gainesville, Ga Im sure if you needed help with something he can get you going in the right direction.

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Thanks for the tip. I've already got a complete harness, just trying to tie the pods on the dash into it. If I run into trouble I might contact you about your buddy. ;)

65Custom just had to remind me about Dakota Digital. :lol: Decisions.......The cost is too much right now.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/cartimages/prd_zm_171.gif

I finally got something finished. It seems like nothing gets completed. Oh yeah I got 2 things done. The kitchen overhaul is done after 2 years we got the granite tops installed and I finished trimming them out Saturday. I also overhauled the lawn mower after 10 years. It used to be green. The blue is actually a 2011 Ford color. I worked on a 2011 Mustang that color and really liked it.

I'm getting a 10X30 lean too on the back of my shop with in the next week or two depending on weather. :metal: That should free up some floor space.

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X2 on that color blue, It would go good with a white on a two tone truck. Alan do you have the paint # handy? The digital gauges would look real nice, is that in the works for your truck maybe? Thanx...Vernski:gi:

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I installed some Dakota Digital gauges in a 55 Chevy once, and the customer didn't like them. It was hard to see when it's sunny. I would think twice about getting them. I would stick with digital analogue looking gauges.

http://www.boeseengineering.com/imag...7006AT_700.jpg

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I believe that was a common complaint with the red illuminated digital gauges. I installed a Dakota Digital red display unit in a '66 GMC for a customer. The daytime visibility was not good. A couple years later I removed the digital and changed it to Autometer gauges for the guy. Dakota Digital discourages customers from ordering the red display. The blue or teal display colors provide better daytime visibility.

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I can't remember what color they were, but I think the regular style hot rod gauges look better.

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Hey Alan,
The gauges look real good and so does the new kitchen counter. But 140 MPH...? I don't think my old heart could handle that in a C10. The Ford Blue really caught my eye and I too envisioned a white over blue sitting in my driveway...
F.Y.I. - You will be held responsible if I show-up at a ralley and there's a fleet of them to meet me...:lol::chevy::chevy::chevy::lol:

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Thanks Vern the paint code is CI

Thanks for the input guys. That is diffenately something to consider. Maybe since the display is hard to see in bright light maybe I won't know I'm going 140. ;)

Thanks Danny, 140 would be a white knuckle ride. Be the first to show up at the ralley then everyone else will be followers. ;) Or document it here on the forum then you have proof of origination. :metal:

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Alan,

I found this website today and they've got some LED bulbs for the gauge cluster: http://whitegauges.net
But, after checking into it, they seemed a little pricey and not really what I was looking for.
So I went back to http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...Fba9s_1led.htm and found what I've been looking for.
If ya know something I don't, 'Spill the Beans', cause I've got to get something brighter in the dash for my broken-down eyes....
Danny :chevy:

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I'm liking the lean to idea. Mise well just put a lean to on all three sides I'm sure you'll but needing it.;)

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Well guys when I was talking about the Dakota Gauges they have a new style VHX not the digital numbers type, I agree those would be hard to read in anything but night driving, this new style they developed looks really nice and more modern and are digital with analog faces
They remind me of the newer dashes in the newer cars but with the flair of old dashes I also asked them if they were doing one for our truck and they wrote back saying that it would be out mid year

go check them out but don't look at the prices

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod&prd737.htm

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I like the gauges, but not for $900 with the bezle
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