Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like it! Nice job of hiding the ugly stuff. Are you doing the water pump orange and the accessories black? or?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

woah, it's been a while since I checked in... 3 pages (well 2 really) of updates that I've missed out on. Looking good! I love the valve cover treatment and the hidden items on the intake. I like the orange engine myself.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, trying to hide everything, but I may end up with the oil fill at the front of the valley cover (it’s getting crowded in the back), to be determined soon.

Water pump will be orange, brackets/pulleys black, alternator case ‘aluminum’ to break it up a bit, unless I decide I hate it, then it will get painted black. Same goes for brake and clutch masters, alloy for now, unless they bother me too much then they’ll end up black.
Appreciate the kudos. I’m liking how its all coming together. 3 pages now, your input counts! :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

More progress, albeit small. I found some nickel plated 1/16” npt fittings to use for the steam vent, instead of buying the $100 AN hose kits that are for sale everywhere. I lopped off the long, stock nipple and used an elbow, then plumbed a straight fitting into the water pump. Short, sweet, and to the point.

Also installed the oil filler in the valley cover, which I’m kinda on the fence about, but the hole is drilled, so that’s that.

It’s all in the details... Maybe I’ll be ready to stab this thing, soon.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like it, probably the cleanest way to do the steam vent. I like the oil fill, too. If you don't like it after the 30-day rule, you could always pull the valley cover and weld in a tube to mimic the old style fill tubes.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Shaping up nicely.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The filler is growing on me. I think it won’t be so glaring once the accessories and air cleaner and knock sensors and whatnot are installed. It’s the only black thing there in a sea of orange right now...
Thanks, I’ve been looking at yours and stealing ideas :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Finally tore into the packaging of these beauties today and promptly set to tearing them apart and scrubbing them with 220 grit sandpaper. Why would a seemingly sane person do this to a $700 set of billet hood hinges, you ask? Why to paint them black to make them look more like stock, of course :crazy:

I squirted the hood hinges (and the ICT billet engine accessory brackets) in my favorite shade of satin black. Hopefully tomorrow they are cured enough to reassemble...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Understated beauty. No flash, all business, LOVE IT:metal::metal::metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Great job on the retro & simple look on the engine...just goes to show you dont need copious amounts of billet & chrome!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, and hope you guys like the finished look of the hood hinges as much as I do. I think they should have come this way:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I also installed the painted accessory brackets and came to the conclusion that I will need to paint those shiny bolt heads black, too :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The hood hinges turned out very nice!

paint that rusty damper bolt too...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I love the overall theme! I feel the same way about scuffing brand new billet parts for satin paint, it just fits...bet it makes some folks skin crawl though!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice work! I have to wonder why you did all that work though, aren't those hinges offered in black powder coat? Mine did, but I have the Eddie Motor Sports hinges. Either way, it looks good, and the engine is turning out nicely!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Curious, how did you mask the holes off so the paint made it into the surrounding hole, but not hit the silver bearings? They look great btw :metal:


Work Work Work, all day long, work work work while i sing this song..... Gonna paint these bolts, no more shine, gonna take off the spray paint with turpentine..... Sorry, old school sandler and spade CD's reminder for me.... Building purdy means HARD WORK! Looking great man.

:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm Lovin' It!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! That bolt is the old one, used to press the balancer back on after the cam swap. It will be replaced with a new stretch bolt that is shiny and silver (and will probably get painted black, too).
Thanks buddy, I just hate polishing :lol:
All-American offers these anodized black, with machined silver edges. I likely could have had them done in all black, but it was a $150 up charge and I’m cheap :lol: I was re-thinking that savings part-way through this project, though...
Very nice, love me some old-school Sandler! Though saying it that way makes me feel old :whine:

For the masking part, I used no tape, mostly stuff I had laying around. Pictured below are some of the tools; the washers fit perfectly in the bearing-face holes, held by the counter-sink screw and nut which fit perfectly in the backside of the bearings. All other threaded holes had bolts installed, or 3/8-16 j-hooks which were used to suspend the parts while spraying.
It’s like a McDonalds commercial :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Chris, the black finish on the hinges is just what the doctor ordered:cool: :cool: :cool:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hey Chris, were you cheap before OTS or just after?? ;) :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the input; I’m very happy with how they turned out.
I’ve always been a cheap-a$$, but now I can afford better parts :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

While I like the minimal bling effort, I feel painting the bolt heads creates areas for future failure. Plated bolts are fine (quality plated) & you don't have the chipping/peeling issues if something requires adjustment. Food for thought.....

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Sage advice, as always, Scot. Maybe I’ll find some black oxide replacements

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Good idea but be warned..... most I've used are of poor quality & rust easily. I used the Black ARP header fasteners on my dually. 1st time I rinsed the engine compartment down they were rusty within days. I wound up only using their studs & after buzzing the surface rust off, painted them w/engine high-heat paint. I swapped all the remaining hardware for SS. I had higher expectations given ARP was the source especially given the cost as there were more cost effective alternatives.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well, my boat is full of holes and sinking :lol: