Re: PO has me PO'd
I found it in an old sampling color chart. In the color chart the flake does not show up as much as in the floor board pics of this thread's blazer.
It looked somewhat aftermarket not factory. Just caught my eye. Did not mean to get the topic off track. LOL Scott |
Re: PO has me PO'd
here's another pic, maybe easier to see...there is a gold flake in there
Off Topic LOL....my whole build thread is filled w/off topic. just random thoughts of what I do every day https://farm1.staticflickr.com/891/2...b58e172b_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/J4bYLQ]20180415_112104 |
Re: PO has me PO'd
Jim have you given any more thought to parting with a manifold that will work with the Sniper EFI system im contemplating......
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https://farm1.staticflickr.com/857/4...3777c08c_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/26e9jkb]20180418_104435
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/933/2...ea929e15_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/Ja8hRQ]20180418_104540 sides look alittle bulky, will have to machine some slots or trapazoids |
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Started to work on my harness, found out there is a late and early version of harness, so my TPS and IAC connecters are wrong, plus location with in connecters. Wiring diagram shows this.
While I was working on the harness, found out I was putting the seal on wrong, so, I cut the tabs shorter, maybe a 1/16" or 1/8" and wrapped the tabs around the wire, then slid the seal on, much easier then trying to crimp the seal, as I would cut the seal. Having the right crimper also made the job easier. I like to pre-crimp with a larger size and then do a final crimp. I may go back and solder. Also, having the right pin tools, is a must, can't remove without releasing lock on the pins https://farm1.staticflickr.com/865/4...3c402087_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/26oYwbW]20180423_120857 sorry no pics of late style connecter, as I destroyed it on removal |
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https://farm1.staticflickr.com/797/4...11790be8_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/256HNBz]20180423_121452
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/878/3...e1f1456f_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/23GQLvN]20180423_125720 https://farm1.staticflickr.com/816/2...8dda9070_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/Jk3sgb]20180423_125807 The larger crimp puts a hex crimp but the narrower crimp tool fits better on the pin, and does a factory style crimp |
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These are the pins and tool that I'm working with. Since all the wires pulled out of the pins, I will solder them
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/980/2...8b2b5458_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/GQxatM]20180424_102116 |
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Did some soldering of my pins, s/b a better connection, just don't go crazy with solder, I use a very small diameter! Just on the crimp
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/910/4...f0480f53_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/25a5mXt]20180425_103313[ While I was researching Jess's Sniper EFI, I found a clamp on O2 senser mount, hope it works as I suck a welding TPS is locked and finished https://farm1.staticflickr.com/866/4...528e0fb4_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/25a7kYk]20180425_105519 |
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TPS and IAC are done now onto MAP
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/979/2...234e7175_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/Jph5hQ]20180425_131006 |
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Last conversion from late model to early connecter- MAP
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/949/2...717cb494_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/GUyec2]20180426_094705 |
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managed to read through most of your build thread, you do some fantastic work, on a side note im in the industrial maintenance profession my self, im still green compared to you tho with only about 8 years of experience. looking forward to more updates great work so far
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The tool to compress the tangs on the terminal is a pin pusher.
Your crimpers look to be incorrect, sadly there are many kinds. If the wires pull out of the terminal after crimping, the crimper is not the right one, or the crimp was incorrect. Sorry... Ref the pic in post #2933. The crimp of the big end (closest in the pic) is in the insulation to help hold the terminal; the next one is in the bare wire and provides the electrical connection. The crimper should roll the tangs of the terminal in a bit, not just fold them over. If the crimper has U shaped patterns and not rounded W patterns, it aint right. Also, with a less expensive crimper you may need to crimp a few times on the different spots. The next bits sticking up slightly are what hold the terminal in the connector and what the pin pusher releases to allow the terminal to be removed. It might be too late, so if you soldered, make sure to try and minimize vibration, wobbling, movement, whatever at the connection. A soldered joint is brittle and more prone to failure when stressed. A soldered joint also depends on a good mechanical connection; solder is an alloy of lead and tin, neither of which are strong. Sorry if that was TMI. |
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My career in industrial man. was rewarding and I enjoyed going to work every day. Ya just never knew what fire you would have to put out, on any given day, and that was the interesting part, never boring. Something broke all the time in the factories I've worked at..... Pay was great, and overtime was always there. Papermills were the most fun as everything was HUGE. Pharmicueticals not so much as everything had SOP's Gotta get my spell check working again! |
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Using the right crimper is also key, as you state , a "W" shape is the one to use of the correct size Information is key, to a buildthread, and I hope it helps young builders in the future, past when I have long gone |
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Newest adventure, step up resister to crank trigger- 5v-12v across signal and power wire
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/977/4...53d79f77_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/26KxEf5]20180504_095233 |
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Ref: post 2896. repin connecters and terminals for FAST to EFI Connections. Connectors from FAST would not fit sensors from EFI, plus terminal locations are in a differant oreintation, with information provided by EFI and the schmatic from FAST, I was able to repin the connectors to plug in to the sensors on the cam and crank with out the jumpers from EFI Connection, SOOOO, wires go in and out the same colors
Terminal release tool goes in the little rectanguler slot at the top of the connecter. First remove white lock on connector, then you are able to remove wires and metal terminals. Don't forget to rebend locking tab up Photos to follow, flickr not working, or operater error |
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https://farm1.staticflickr.com/974/2...effc3730_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/HmZ71T]20180510_101426
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/965/2...fedfbcd4_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/HmZbNi]20180510_101519 this is the portion of the schmetic I'm working on https://farm1.staticflickr.com/951/4...6284d715_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/25DujVB]20180510_103855 |
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You make it look so easy Jim.
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Hav'nt seen anyone else on these boards using FAST, so I'm on my own, just me and my computer |
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Just picked this up from E-bay for 25.00 or 30.00. Thanks to the heads up from long standing member John H. Great forum when guys look out for one another
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/944/4...8f9d63b2_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/27u8n1e]20180524_121406 This thing looks brand new, date on box says 1995, so I hope it's not for a newer truck, guess I'll have to wait and see |
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Jim,
Great buy! Here are some older gauges and boxes with same part numbers on the box and the gauge. Attachment 1787369 |
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It's alive and well, buddy came over to help figure out 2 phase
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...85751607_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/26QMHWN]20180606_114651 |
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https://farm1.staticflickr.com/847/4...a0c1fd62_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/299Mhsf]20180717_085848[
ANyone know size of these four bolts?????????????? Putting A/C in a non A/c truck, bezel to nice not to use |
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https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1781/...ff82f127_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/26vce8U]20180718_102107
Weii, it's not 1/4-20 |
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Jim
They are 1/4" pan head sheet metal screws 1/2" long. Richard |
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good answers guys, good thing i didn't try to thread that 1/4-20 in. Now on the hunt for screws. OK, found some, at least I have a sample.
Thanks for the direction and time Guys. May have to post up a WTB in the classifieds or Fastenal good memory Jess |
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Jim
I have a few extras if you need 2. Pm me your address and I will get them out tomorrow Richard |
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Not sure as the bracket has welded nuts on it, that would mount the bracket thru dash, these may be machine screws
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/920/4...658a7028_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/29cyP9J]20180718_204220 |
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Correct two of them that go thru the dash panel should be 1/4 20 and the two that are not threaded will be what I posted above.
Let me go get a picture of the complete unit |
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here are a couple pictures
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https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1767/...5c786bfc_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/29hCAZK]20180719_091541
Thanks Richard for the offer of parts over the years, you have been a great help. bolts and screws should be here, but it's been 20 years since I took it apart Chased the threads, and 1/4-20 seems to work. Of course, the PO used the wrong screw driver and screwed up the head Found 1 screw, may have to hit you up for 1 screw |
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knew it had to be in one of six
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/930/4...b232c731_c.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/26x3PLY]20180719_112800 now for install |
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