Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

:thumbs:It all looks great if that flang is hidden under the wood it is great like it is if it is on top of the wood make it so it is under IMO

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I think Alan flys through for a drive by posting then he is gone again in a flash:uhmk::haha:

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Thanks Dave, gotta love the sanding part. :lol:

I did, but I bought a rust free GMC hood. ;)

Don't need another project right now :haha:

Keeps ya on your toes. :lol: Speaking of which this is another drive by. :lol:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I think I have mentioned this earlier. I thought about using a weatherstrip from a late model car trunk for the seal between the inner fender to the firewall. I found one today and tested to see how it looks. I haven't installed on the truck yet. Right now I'm thinking it will be better than factory. What do ya'll think? The only thing I forsee is the inner reinforcement metal will rust.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I think it looks good. Seal it with silicone or something else so the metal won't rust.;)

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Nice progress Alan

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That looks good Alan!!!:bann: I thought about doing the same for the door seals. When I got the new seals for my 64 GMC and found no metal core for the pinch weld I was less than imprested, I thought that I had purchased inferior parts then found it was just like the factory. I work fleet maintenance on military vehicles and the door seals used on MTVs, {a cab over truck used by the Army (a real POS) } would work perfect for our door seals. Now if I could just find where to get it on the civilian market. The profile of these seal is just the same as the factory used on our trucks but with the spring metal core for the pinch weld and the quality of the material just seems much better. I think it would really help control the wind noise these trucks are known for. If I can find where to get the stuff I will let everyone here know.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I was laying in bed last night and thought of that. I'm sure I'm the only one that does that. :lol: Thanks for the idea.

:thumbs: Appreciate it Heath!!

Shannon got some for his 69 that has a metal reinforcement. I wonder how close they are in length? Maybe he can post up where he got his. I can have him bring his over and we can compare his to my cab if you need.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Oh that sounds great:cf: thanks, I have a 71 but never looked at the door seal I will have to do that. One of these days I need to get working on that 71 as well, it is in the best condition of any un-restored 40 year old vehicle that I have ever seen. It started life as a motor home chassis and has a deluxe interior with buckets and factory tachometer. OH THE PADD:dig::haha:

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Your welcome, as long as your not thinking of me while your in bed. :haha:

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I got my door seals from Paul over at www.gmcpauls.com He's a board vendor as well.;)

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Thanks Shannon and BTW Semper-Fi

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Did you find a speedometer cable grommet for the firewall? if not, pm me your address and ill send you one...I had one on my parts truck.

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I don't know about you sometimes. :lol:

:thumbs:

I ordered it today, thanks for the offer.;)

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If you had nice T*Ts & A$$ and a woman I might. :haha:

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Alan, here is what I figured out for the summut radiator

Hose is a Gates 21620, application was 88 GMC Surburban 3/4 with AC, I cut one bend off the end and it fits good, I tried a few and this is the best I found, I am happy with it as I am not building a show truck...just a runner

Here are a few pics of the hose

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a shot. My engine is in the forward holes, but it might just work.

Rainy day in GA so I went to work and got some things done to the bed. First I stripped everything out except for the front and rear crossmember. Then made a cross bar for the front to stabilize it.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC04478.jpg

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC04477.jpg

I washed all the galvanized parts with this and a red scotch brite pad.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC04483.jpg

Before

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC04482.jpg

After

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC04485.jpg

The spot welds had some raised areas around them. I hit them with a 50 grit roloc.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC04489.jpg

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC04486.jpg

Then squared off the fuel pocket and wiped it.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC04490.jpg

It's getting close to another priming. I'm going to DP the galvanized parts and fill the spot welds to slick the T/G and header panel. I wanted to stay and get all of that done, but went home to the family.

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Looks much better squared off. :metal:

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:agree:

I'm really confussed about my brake M/C. The truck had power brakes when I got it.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...vytruck046.jpg

Here is the wedge in question. Also does the rubber fit in the wedge or on the firewall? It really doesn't fit the firewall good because it is so thick. It fits the wedge really nice, but will it kit water from entering the cab?

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSC03667.jpg

I have discussed this awhile back and back then I just decided to leave the wedge out. Because it looked weird and the rod would not connect to the pedal the way I thought it should. I'm back at it now trying to figure out the problem. I'm thinking someone added PB after the fact. Notice the wedge behind the M/C mounted on the firewall is pointed up (in pic above during teardown).

In this pic it is supposed to be mounted like this which makes the MC point at an angle to the left side. Why does it mount like this pointing to the left side?

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSC03668.jpg

With the wedge removed this is how much thread engagement I have in the rod end.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSC03673.jpg

With the wedge installed it doesn't adjust out far enough for a drop fit in the pedal. The pic shows it at one thread engagement. I believe the pedal should rest against the rubber stop (can be seen in pic). Isn't that right?

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSC03677.jpg

I like the angle here with the wedge installed pointing up. With it in this position the brake lines will need some tweaking. Without wedge it points straight off the firewall.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSC03679.jpg

My choices are:

Without wedge drill 2 new holes in firewall and call it done. (My vote)

With wedge lengthen rod, tweak brake lines.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

looks like you have a 68-72 booster and a mounting wedge for 60-66 trucks with power brakes


when I ran the 67-72 booster I ran it without the wedge and just bolted it to the firewall, I have since removed the 67-72 booster and added a captain fab bracket and 1988-98 booster, I never liked the idea of the booster mounted to just the firewall and not the re enforcing meant to carry the load of the brakes

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I agree. Good job buddy.

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Ours is mounted like that on the wife's '66.
I believe it kicks to the left for valve cover clearance with a v-8. I believe there were 2 options for these, a vertical and a horizontal bracket.
All I can figure is that you have the wrong linkage.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

If I bolt it to the firewall it will be bolted thru the steering column support which I believe is plenty of reinforcement. ;) I also attached a pic of a 72 PB setup I have laying around. It looks like the rod end is longer than what I have on my truck now. I will look into it. Thanks for the input. ;)

Thanks neighbor. :metal:

Thanks Joe, I remember us discussing this a while back. Still puzzleing me. I believe your right. Who knows what people do to these trucks during their life. ;)

Here is a 72 booster setup

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Dang-it Alan I see you are starting another project for 198plus this is great for you:metal: but you got so much going on how am I going to keep up and still get anything done here??? What I am saying is you may not realize it but have achieved your dream of being a teacher. Maybe I am not a good student but man I can’t keep up :haha:
No but seriously I have learned a lot from this sight and much of it from you every one here is great as I get ready to start on my new 64 and get back in to finishing my others I cant help but to think about how much help this sight and it’s members are thanks to you all this place rocks:5150:.
Ok I will stop now and I suggest the rest of you do the same or Alan’s head will be so big it will no longer fit through the shop door and he will no longer be able to work on his killer projects. :haha:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

are you sure thats a 72 set up? here is the one I ran on my 62 for 15 years and I pulled it from a one owner stock 71 , the same truck I got my rear end and front brakes from, here is a pic of the booster, I can take more if I can dig the booster up, its in the garage somewhere

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Just an idea, but there is a write up in the new Car Craft about using a junkyard Hydroboost out of a newer Astro van. They installed it in a '67 Chevelle, and it looked like a pretty easy swap.

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Alan, i like this idea for the seal.

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Thanks man!! I'm not working on 198Plus build any more. He decided it would be cheaper to buy his own body shop and do it himself. :lol: He's been handling it for the past 6 months or so.

You making fun of the size of my head? :haha: It's big enough already, not from swelling from pride. I was born with it. ;) Thanks for the inspirational comments. I wish I could move as fast others at getting a project done in no time. It's been fun for the most part so far.

I can't say that I'm 100% sure that it is a 72. I got a rolling 72 frame and he threw in the booster as well. I was under the impression that it was since was the only one he had apart.

That is some good info. I'm past that point right now, but maybe someone else can use the idea. Thanks for the idea. :metal:

No progress updates. "Draggin' butt" has set in. :lol:

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Got a little painting done. I didn't put enough hardener in it apparently. Because it was slow to dry. I used the right reducer just got cross-eyed looking at the measuring lines. I brought the parts home just in case I get some time this weekend. I painted the M/C, vent window frames, condensor brackets and front shrouds. The shrounds didn't turn out good, i ran the heck out of one of them. I should have laid them down, but I didn't. (I only painted the top of the shrouds.) Some day I will learn. :lol: Maybe. ;)

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Cant always hog it on there haha..... We're gonna make a painter out of you yet.. At least your shop is not making you body guys prime the stuff you fix like they are down here.
_Truck is looking good as always. Lookin forward to the chewing fat!
:metal:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks Joel!! Maybe I can be a painter someday. ;)

Crazy weekend, not much time in the shop. I did manage to start my other vent window frame. The second one is always easier. The first time I installed the rigid strip first. That for me was a no-no. The wrap around goes in first as seen below.

Parts laid out on a padded work bench.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03695.jpg

With some lube for it to squeeze into the channel I installed the wrap around piece first.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03696.jpg

The rigid piece needs to be bowed a little to get it in the corner pockets.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03700.jpg

The wrap around didn't fit as well as the first one. It seemed a little short on both ends.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03699.jpg

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03703.jpg

I pulled it back out of the track some to fix the end gaps by shifting it. I trimmed about 1/8" off because it binding on the pivot bracket. It really didn't help much it was just too short.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03702.jpg

With everything in and lined up it's ready for the rivets.

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03705.jpg

I will be posting this in the FAQ Wing/Vent window rebuild.

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Looks good! I like the padded workbench. Even with a detailed thread showing how to do the job, I managed to find a way to mess mine up. I installed the "D" shaped washer that goes in along with the fiber washer on the pivot assembly backwards, and it wouldn't let the window open up. I had to drill out the pivot rivet, take the assembly apart, and turn the washer around. It wasn't a big deal, but I only had two pivot rivets. I'm still waiting for my new one to arrive. :waah:

Anyway, like I said before, the FAQ writeup was a big help.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks, remember you saying that. I just finished editing the FAQ stating to make sure people pay attention to the orientation of the pivot stop. Thanks for the heads up. I'm going back to the FAQ to edit some more.

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This is getting exciting looks like it won’t be long now. Soon to have glass !!!! What you going to do when this is done? Road trip in the truck to Disney Land???:lol:

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Great progress and looking good...........

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i just cant get enough of that dash, man that thing is beautiful, you do some excellent work. cant wait to see it completed.

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Thanks, slowly but surely. ;)

:thumbs:

Does anybody have a pic of the ebrake setup with all levers and springs and guides that pull the intermediate cable to the sides. A factory diagram would be great. I did some digging for my old parts. The pics below is what I have found so far. I'm not even sure the spring and long rod are part of the setup. I have to adapt the crossmember brackets over to the CPP trans mount. Undecided on how I really want to do it. I'm waiting on some parts to show up so I can start piecing it all together.

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Hey Alan,

Here is a pic of mine I took so I could remember how it went.

The big spring goes from the very bottom hole in the pic to the rear cross member with a little hook rod that acts as an extension.

TR