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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
You could always get a small brush to paint them once they are installed and tight. If you ever need to remove them, then you would have to touch up the paint...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Karl is right, you know. There's a reason that I have a couple of bottles of black finger nail polish in my tool cart. And no, not to touch up my finger nails, they get black enough on their own.:lol:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Agreed. Excellent ideas.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
I agree with Scoti. I've painted my fair share of bolts and all of them have chipped or peeled at some point. Most have failed very quickly (days or weeks). Plated bolts may work, but the black oxide I've seen hasn't been black for more than a few months. They rust.
The touch up paint idea is a good one, but if it stands out like a sore thumb in polished form, it will be easily spotted if it's touched up too. Just keep that in mind. This is exactly why I try to leave all of my bolts raw (stainless), unless they will rust (steel). |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Powder coat is more durable than paint, but it doesn't pay off unless you have a DIY setup at your digs.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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With the engine somewhat complete, I decided it was time to get it ready to stab. First up, pull it off the engine stand where it’s been for months and swap the flex plate for a flywheel.
This setup is super simple and straightforward, using a PRW part# 1634680 which is drilled for both LS and big block clutches. Since I’m using an old Muncie (for now?), I’ll use the early style disc with 10-splines. Also installed an LS7 style pilot bearing, which thanks to GM’s consistency throughout the years, fits the old Muncie pilot shaft perfectly. |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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...and then stalled at the point of having the engine mounts in place. I had assumed that the bell housing would bolt up no problem. Silly me. It hits the rear cover bolts, so I’ll either be grinding on it a bit, or ordering a new one. Oh well, the engine looks good sitting there being held up by the picker and a jack...
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Im excited to watch yours come together, engine looks good. |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Ooooo.... I remember that point, like it was last week... Looks good brother!
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Everything looks great, Chris!
Just MHO, but have used the VHT Black Epoxy spray paint and it does a very good job. Especially, if you give it a little bake in the grille! |
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I do like the vht epoxy, specifically the satin version Quote:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Looking forward to it, Chris! Anytime we can get together is a good time!!!!
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Back to Shreveport? Oh, the damage we can do being a short 3 hour drive away! :lol:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
You need to make a trip to Lone Star Thorwdown (LST) next year, when it's finished. It's out here just north of Houston in February.
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I am straight-up stoked about these :metal:
Rick’s custom upholstery is rocking it. It’s awesome to see something that came from my brain, then onto piece of paper, turn into reality. They are also working on a dash pad and visors to match :chevy: |
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Very nice!
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That interior is going to be outstanding! Nice job
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Sweet! Those look great and will compliment your truck nicely.
I want to upgrade all my stuff now.... It's hard to resist the urges, heck my stage 1 build is already more like a stage 1 and 2 combined..... :chevy: |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Blue Houndstooth? What's the color/info on the other material? I'm on the hunt for retro (appearance & color) blue material that doesn't break the back.
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