Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ha, you’re more optimistic on schedule than I am. We are definitely planning on hitting all of the good stuff once we’re down that way
Thanks guys, it never ends...
Look for ENDURATEX Madrid 2309 CLASSIC Metallic Medium Blue Vinyl

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Have you found a rattle can dye that matches the vinyl?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That upholstery is pretty sweet and really goes the extra mile to make the truck unique!!! :cool: :cool: :cool:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The last can I used was ordered from a Corvette restoration shop, as those cars used the same blue metallic vinyl. I don’t know how close this vinyl I’ve ordered will match the stock stuff, though, which is why I had them go ahead and re-cover the visors and dash pad, too. I can do a comparison against my armrests, which were painted with the rattle can, once the new pieces arrive.
Thanks for the kudos. Going for stock-ish, but not quite. Most non-C-10 folks probably won’t even look twice :cool:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You can do it! It doesn't have to be "done." It doesn't even have to run, but it's a lot easier to get in and out if it does.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'll watch for the updates. Thanks!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Did I miss it? How'd you get a MAF into the air cleaner?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I’ll just be happy to have it together enough to get on a trailer in a couple of months
No worries, should have everything in a few weeks
MAF-less, speed-density via Fitech, but Holley’s new Terminator X is looking pretty good to me now. Check out dayj1’s “another way to skin the cat” thread for a good example of how to hide the MAF in a tall air cleaner. I’ve also seen guys use the cartridge type in the snorkel

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

My new bellhousing arrived and I got right to bolting it on and stabbing the transmission. You can see just under the top-most bolt where the alloy unit has more clearance than the old Lakewood steel one. This is where the rear cover bolts needed some wiggle room. The new one is from Silver Sport, and is made specifically for LS to Muncie conversions. Should also work well with a TKO, if/when I decide to go that route and saves what feels like 60 lbs...

No pictures of the hydraulic throw out, but it set up beautifully with proper clearance. I couldn’t resist bolting up the Hurst shifter and pretending to row through the gears :burnout:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and a few shots of the engine sitting in its rightful place. I particularly like the last one showing how nicely everything tucks up with the dropmember.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You are making me want to do an LS swap....

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Jump on in, everybody’s doing it! Once this junk is “done”, I’ll be happy to come help :mm:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Swap is looking on point!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Everything looks great! What size is that booster/master set up? Is that a captain fab bracket hiding behind?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Scoti!
Thanks, the booster is a 9” dual diaphragm from inline tube, wilwood master, and captainfab bracket with integrated clutch master

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looking good from here!

Nice job Chris.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Just spent the last week going through this build thread and found myself writing down ideas to follow up on and parts to look into for a few of my builds.

Excellent work on all fronts Chris - you are doing top notch stuff!

What shifter boot are you considering for the Muncie? I replaced the one in the 70 GMC Jimmy with a new one (Amazon cheapie) and it ripped after using it for driving in/out of the garage... I should have known.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That engine is looking sick in the bay man. Top Notch.


:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the compliments, everyone. I just do the things I think are cool, I’m glad others seem to like it as well :cool:

As for the shift boot, the plan is for a factory (or re-pop, most likely) oval-shaped 4wd boot and trim ring, just keeping with the stock-ish theme. Hurst makes this handy little piece to adapt the flat handle to a round-ish boot hole:

https://www.hurstshiftersonline.com/...ommet-p590.htm

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Had some power steering hoses made-up at the local hydraulics shop yesterday. Quick turn, cheap, and fit nicely. The high-side snakes behind the tensioner bracket, while low side has a pretty much straight shot to the reservoir.

That allowed pressing-on of the pump pulley and then measuring for the serpentine belt. I’m happy to report that it only took two trips to the LAPS to get the right one :lol: Baby steps...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You're killing it Chris, one step at a time. Your patience and eye for detail are paying off for sure!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Wow...the fit of the engine in that drop member is perfect....I dont know if you could even fab something remotely close to that at home!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, buddy! I may have to back off on the detail work for a bit, it’s time to get this beast running!
Not with my skill set, I know my limitations :lol: Definitely a high quality product

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Great truck - great work!

...saw that you had some questions re. the clutch rod angle set up on another post and I'm working on the same subject so I thought I'd get you some photo's of an alternative set up - couldn't send photo's via PM so I'm using this post. Might help you and/or others:

This is the NO LIMIT this set up for hydraulic clutch and looks much more straightforward - pulls the clutch master up higher, rod is straight, is on a flatter firewall area and uses the more popular mounting style master which allows for larger and/or remote reservoir. Plate is 3/16"

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Appreciate the compliments :D The NL stuff looks nice, wish I’d known there was another option. I’m pretty far down the road with my current setup, so I’m running with it for now. Thanks for the heads-up!