Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

This was a couple nights ago.

I installed the throttle linkage and pedal, but they don't line up. It was late and I haven't studied it. My guess is the studs for the pedal are in the wrong place. I replaced the floor in that area and drilled the holes for the studs without thinking.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...m/DSC03783.JPG

I knew this would be a problem since the engine was moved forward.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...m/DSC03784.JPG

New seals for the cowl vents.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...m/DSC03788.JPG

In process. It took maybe 15 minutes to do one vent. It's not hard just have to take some time. The seals could tear easily.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...m/DSC03785.JPG

Finished

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...m/DSC03787.JPG

Also realized tonight that the little chrome piece on the vent window where the window locks closed is removable. I never really paid much attention to it. :lol:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

looking good alan, you make things look to easy, as far as the accelerator assembly, ever thought about using a 72 cable style, pretty sure thats where im going with mine when i start on the cab.

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Thanks Allan, but your too late. I cleaned the gun really good too. :lol:
I painted my Roadstar bags, trunk and Batwing Fairing silver and black. When I cleared over it all the black had metallic in it. It kinda looks good that way, but it's not what I wanted. Looks like I did it on purpose. So I had it pinstriped anyway. :lol:

http://belair.smugmug.com/Other/My-S...28_WBewB-L.jpg

http://belair.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...30_KzuZo-L.jpg

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Thanks, and no I never considered it. I should have before I sprayed the cab. I was looking at it last night and believe it will be an easy fix.

Nice bike you have there. Do you have a clear only gun now? ;)

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Thanks Allan, No but before I paint again I will. ;)

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Alan quick ? I sprayed my s10 bed about 4 years ago. I did about 3 coats of black, and then 2-3 coats of clear. And yes I only used one gun.

The end of last year my clear started to turn white and flake in spots. I followed the directions to the T. What do you think would be the cause. It's going to get redone, and I'll get another gun. I'll probably do a flat though in the clear.

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What brand of paint were you using? Was it base coat or single stage black? I've seen people including myself spray a single stage let it dry and color sand it and then clear it. Makes for a deeper shine. How long did you let the base coat sit before clearing? Did you spray it in a booth or outside? Just trying to get more info before I make up an answer. :haha: J/K I was talkiing to the painter at work about it and these are the questions he asked me. ;)

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I think it was a duplicolor base and clear. I think I picked it up from Orielly's because the bed and cab were diffrent colors.

I think I waited 5-10 min between the base and clear. And I did it outside, so I know I got crap in it because I got a bunch of orange peel.

And make up a good answer I wanna hear it!

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Question, do you put catalyst in the base coat? I was told you don't have to. And another lesson I learned is DO NOT COLOR SAND METALLIC BEFORE CLEAR COAT. I learned the hard way.:uhmk::uhmk:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I'm not saying duplicolor is a bad product, because I don't know for sure. I sprayed my first car with something along that line. I didn't want to spend a bunch on my first paint job. Not saying duplicolor is cheap. It was red when it went on and within a year it was orange. This was 20 years ago. I know PPG has a UV protector in it, duplicolor may not. I spray outside sometimes and works great. As long as there aren't any big temp changes. I like spraying early in the morning when the wind is calm and no bugs. I leave the car inside over night taped up and roll it out in the am. MY real concern is if there was a heavy dew.


With PPG base coat is reduced with reducer no catalyst required. It dries quick.

I learned that lesson as well not sanding metallic base before clear. I used 400 out of habit to sand a bad spot out. That made the metallics lay a different way than the rest. The painter said I should have used 2000.

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I picked the headlight bezels up yesterday. $5ea.

I'm confussed right now. I've been blocking on my bed and consider myself a good mud man. I've blocked my left bedside several times and thought it was good enough to prime. I even blocked it with 320 with no problems. i was running my hands over it yesterday and found a major problem. I have my suspitions of what happened, but won't mention it here. I blocked it out with 80 and 180 today and ready for primer again in that spot.

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Alan, I sent another email to verify paypal...Thanks

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Allan $hit happens. :lol:

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He's a sleep walker. Does bodywork late at night with the lights off.:lol:

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did something get Hot? looking good Alan!

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so im not the only one this crap happens to. looks good to me great job on the fuel door.

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;)

You talking about me or Dennis? :haha:

Yeah, my temper. J/K Nothing got hot unless I was hand blocking too fast. :haha: BTW thanks

Thanks, it must be the gremlins. ;)

I did get my center seat welded up. The seats are ready for the upolstery shop.

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I don't need diapers yet. Not THAT OLD :lol:

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Hey Alan or anyone who might be able to help. I sprayed a RTS epoxy primer on my truck, and its been on the truck for a week or better. I sprayed some HB can primer on the epoxy to prepare for a guide coat and the primer cracked ( like wet lightening bolts) every where there was epoxy. I dont think the epoxy ever fully dried completely. If I was to run a DA over it, it gums up. What do I have to do now? Sand it all off? Or will it eventually dry completely? I had planned to spray poly primer next, is that a bad idea? I'm open to suggestions, I really hope I dont have to sand it all off because of the gumminess underneath because I epoxied the interior too, what a pain.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I've had the same problem. :banghead: I guess some primers are lacquer based, and will eat enamel. Lacquer primer should be only sprayed on first. Is that right Allan?

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Sorry guys I don't have a good answer. A question like this might get a better answer in the paint and body section. I don't want to mislead you. ;) I'm not familiar with RTS. Did you mix it right? What is HB? I'm drawing a blank here.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

RTS ready to spray...It was already mixed and ready to go...I guess.
It did spray thick though, I had it shaken at the hardware and stirred it real good. I sprayed it with my old Devilbiss conventional style gun, I dont know what size tip it has. I had to turn the pressure up to get it to spray.
The HB is high build primer (Rustoleum primer sold at Wal Mart). Is spray bomb primer like that laquer based? That would explain why it "cracked"..?
So if I get that primer off the truck, do you think its ok to shoot the polyester primer over the epoxy thats on there even though its slightly gummy underneath? Hopefully it will fully cure when it gets warmer around my neck of the woods?

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I wouldn't spray anything else on it til what you have cures out. If it doesn't cure out then it needs to be removed. There are probably more opinions on this, but it's my .02. ;)

Primed the front of my fenders and the bad spot in the bed.

Got to meet west9378 today discussing some work he needs done to his truck.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks Alan, I got the package, everything is real nice.

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I was told when lacquer is used over an epoxy primer, there is a risk of lifting. I'm using urethane primer PPG K-36.

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From my past experience (about 20 years ago...) if that happens, your going to have to take it ALL off, seems like the RTS epoxy never fully cured...

Sorry Alan, don't mean to highjack your awsome build thread...

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Still blocking on the bed when I get a chance. Been getting some small things done to the engine.

Installed the intake

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...cture_0025.jpg

Installed trans dip stick.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...cture_0044.jpg

Trying to figure out the kick down cable. I don't have it mounted yet, it's just laying there. I got this trans used from a buddy at work. It's a TCI 350 with a lockar kick down.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...cture_0093.jpg

This is the end that connects to the carb. I didn't gett the pin it mounts too. What does it look like and is this something I can pickup at a local parts house. If not do I contact TCI?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...cture_0114.jpg

I decided to check out the weatherstrips for the windshield and back glass. I thought I had one of each. I was wrong. I discovered I have 2 fronts. One with a locking strip and one without. I like the one without better. Just hope it works. Still have to get my glass.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...cture_0074.jpg

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Allan, don't forget to add break-in oil to it. Very important, or your cam will wear out prematurely.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=121&pcid=1

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks Dennis, this engine has 500 miles on it, but I will be running something with zink in it. ;)

Ordered all the glass today. Should be here in a week.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Looks good Alan, I think that "pin" you need is just a ball stud. It should be available from who ever made the cable your using.

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Yeah I guess they don't put zink in motor oil anymore. :uhmk:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I think what you need for your kick down cable is holley 20-40 part numner.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-20-40/?rtype=10

Any parts store should be able to get it for you.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks Greg I was just looking at Lokar since that is who made the cable. That looks like what I need. I knew it needed to be a "T" shape just by looking at the cable end. But I wasn't 100% sure. Here is a pic of it from Summit that you linked. Thanks again.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../hly-20-40.jpg

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Glad I could help. Just think you've got two weeks to get all the bugs worked out so you can drive to the get together.

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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Sprayed some light coats of primer over the filler spots that came up while blocking with 320. Then water sanded with 600. I'm happy with it. Still have the inside of one bedside left too sand. I can smell the paint. It's getting close. :metal: Wetting it down with water is like putting clear on it. To give you an idea of how it will look.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Very nice...You can come do mine too. ;)

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

looking great nice build

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Looks like Glass!

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Makes me want to go sand on my bedsides.:lol::lol: No I'll just go to bed instead.:waah: