Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

looks very nice,

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I’m the same way, I like to take my time and think it through, but I’m running outta time here. Appreciate the positive comments.
Thanks a lot!

Very happy with how the column turned out, once I figured out how to put it back together properly. Nice, tight, and smooth operation with no binding or weird noises. New turn signal switch, bearings, and grease and loctite in all the right places. It’s not an ididit, but at least I can say I did it :lol:

If anyone is wondering, the lower mounting bracket that normally is on the outside of the firewall is now on the inside, I simply cut, flipped, and welded it back together at the proper angle and it attaches to the same mounting holes, but from the other side.

Super happy with the way the comfort grip setup looks and the upper u-joint is tucked in about as far as I think it can go, now we’ll see if the steering shaft fits without rubbing anywhere :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like the way your brain works! I've thought about modding a steering column like that before, but never got serious about it since I'm still running the stock gear box. Maybe I should upgrade to the No Limit R&P so I have an excuse to do this. :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It’s such a minor thing, that no one will ever really notice, but I’m proud of the way it turned out. I just wish it was a tilt :waah: That NL rack would have sure saved me a TON of time on this project :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Curious, still have the hole where the shift lever was? Looks good man, I will probably do same now with bracket thanks for the idea.

:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The little things that nobody notices is the stuff that I love, especially if they can keep it looking stock while upgrading the functionality.

The NL rack seems like it would have saved a ton of time until you realize that you would have been re-engineering everything else to get it to work well together like the PB stuff does.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The hole was shaven by a PO using JB Weld or something similar, not the best, but it works well enough until I decide I want to paint it again. For now, that part of the collar is rotated down where it’s not readily visible
Agreed, instead I’m re-engineering the whole truck to fit the PB parts :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

And improving things is a problem somehow? ;)

I actually have been considering this shortening mod w/an old automatic van tilt I have had for y e a r s..... I figured it would be worth a shot so I could get a better angle to the PB placed R&P under-hood by getting it closer to the firewall while also getting it closer to the dash @ the same time on the inside.

Appreciate sharing the parts/pieces related info for sure.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

No problem, glad to help. Highly recommend the CPP piece, if it will work for what you’re doing. Money well spent not having to engineer a bottom bracket and bearing setup.

Your motives echo mine, while trying to keep the steering shaft to two joints only... we’ll see if that works out. I had already moved the column closer to the dash, which just made the under hood angles that much worse. I think trying to keep the shifter mechanism would add a level of complexity, but these things are pretty simple once you’ve taken them apart and put them back together five or six times...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

This is my biggest concern going into it. But, I've had this van column in my parts stash for 20+ years. I figure I can give it a shot before spending the big $$ for a short aftermarket set-up. Haven't 100% committed to a decision yet.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm sure you already know this but just in case we have a member #70shortfleet that rebuilds these columns. His price was half the cost of an IDIDIT or FlamingRiver column and its OEM. I had to pick and choose my battles for time sake otherwise I would have rebuilt mine but since mine was 3 on the tree like gringo's here I figured this was my best option to gain tilt ;) He does a great job, top notch professional. And his shipping methods include some of the best "Made in USA" packing I have ever seen lol. I'm 6'5 so he shortened my column for me, added the cruise control lever, tilt column, added the automatic shift indicator, and painted it gloss black for me. It includes the rubber grommets but you use your original brackets and hardware and of course brake signal switch if needed.

Few pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/CqZ5PzurLU2oUxHVA

:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Been chipping away at installation of some parts: headers are in with new gaskets and hardware, steering shaft is in and clearing everything, fuel and brake hard lines are plumbed, and I spent some time building custom plug wires. I feel like it’s starting to come together and if I don’t manage to break anything important, this thing might just start soon :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and since most of the things I needed to access under hood are complete, I hung the core support, fenders, and hood.

The All-American Billet hinges pretty much fell into place and work like a dream. They don’t open as wide as the stockers, but plenty to stick my head in and work on stuff. Also, plenty of clearance for the Hill’s inner fenders, as indicated by the closed pic with the template marked in sharpie. Overall, pretty satisfied...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I've been waiting to see those hinges go on. I'm glad they are going to clear the Hill's fenders. Can't wait to see this thing on the road around here! When do you need to have it loadable for the move?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

23 May we hit the road, so I have but a few precious weeks. This is starting to feel like your thrash for Power Tour :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Which is starting again. :rolleyes: I have much less to do this year though and there isn't anything that is being done that will stop it from making the trip this time.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice work! Are you going to run wire looms to keep the wires off the exhaust manifolds? 3 weeks to get it running so you can drive it onto the trailer!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! They are loomed, sort of, I used the stock style plastic clips. The wires do not come near touching anywhere right now and the headers are ceramic coated, so fingers crossed they will be ok. I do like the idea of the rail type separators and if this doesn’t work out, I’ll probably go that route.

Yup, 3 weeks to go, and this isn’t the only iron in the fire :devil:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Fingers are crossed for success..... Best of luck!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Glad to see a positive review on installation of the hood hinges, I have a full size set arriving tomorrow.

What ceramic coating is on the headers? Titanium Cerakote?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You're on the home stretch man! Everything is looking so clean. :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Scoti!
You will not be disappointed with the hinges, super nice stuff. Worth the money, I dunno, but they are the only game in town for what I wanted to accomplish.

Good eye, it is titanium cerakote.
Thanks for the kudos, shame I’ll have to tear this all apart again, but glad to see her coming together.

Speaking of which, I sure have missed this face:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

In other news, I will need to do some body mount “adjustments” to get the body lines and trim looking like I want them to.

The “get more low” side of me says cut the bed mounts down, the “get more driveshaft clearance” side says shim the cab. I was already planning on pulling the bed one last time, so that’s probably gonna be the answer. Just means more cab floor surgery :smoke:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ugh... That's the thing I'm fearing the most. My bed is higher than my cab too, so I bought all new body bushings for when I tear it apart again for paint.

With the front sheet metal mounted, it looks like you're almost done! Looks fantastic Chris! :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Duane, that was a big visual hurdle, but there’s plenty left to do!

This alignment issue is with a brand new set of poly bushings; the fit was much better with the rubber pieces. I’m all but set on “body dropping” the bed mounts, since the cab and front clip are already aligned (and, ya know, never low enough :D).