Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I don't know about everyone else but I'm glad your moving ;) = MOTIVATION. :metal:

Great updates on the truck man. I really dig your trim being 'patina' like it is, just adds that little bit of character it needs yet the paint is good. I like it.

That engine is sweet, your choices in mods for the engine are really unique and are coming together nicely. I can only hope my stage 2 of build will be even close to what your doing. Keep it up gringo.

:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well, it looked like a complete truck for 1 day... progress?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks a lot for the compliments and motivation. I wish this were happening under a less stressful timeline, but I’m happy to be getting her going.

As for the paint, it’s mildly distressed, done back before patina was cool. The trim was assembled from random parts purchased here on the board.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I’ve been looking at drop-in fuel pump assemblies for a while: The Boyd Welding setup that bolts in directly is $350, the Tanks Inc version is $220 and would still need to be modified to fit, and there are many other swanky billet high-flow options I’ve explored that either don’t meet my needs or are very expensive.

Instead of spending a bunch of money on things I don’t need, I decided to grab a genuine Walbro 340 and build my own assembly. So far, I’ve got about $120 in the whole business and have a custom fit for my needs pump and fuel pickup :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Good job! I may need to look at that as an option to fix my too many fitting problem of the stock pump. That way I can eliminate the unused vapor line and pump mounted vent.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, man. This was almost too easy, just a little head-scratching and a few hours time turned out a very professional looking product. Today’s pics look a lot like yesterday’s, but now the finished product with wiring, check valve, and final assembly fasteners. It’s installed and looks good, let’s hope it works just as well...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That looks great gringo, looks very similar to the Tanks Inc I installed. Very professional indeed :clap:

And yeah...... I had to modify the heck out of it like you mentioned. I have a deep tank so I had to extend the arm to 13" and therefore the return tube ended up being too short for my liking so I extended it as well so when fuel level is low it's not splashing and foaming fuel right next to the pickup...

I used galvanized steel with stainless fasteners to build my extension. What materials did you use? And did you make a mounting ring to sandwich your top plate to tank?


My Tanks Inc install

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=105


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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Very nice work on your install, I hadn't seen that before.

Details: I used a piece of 1/8” thick x 3/4” wide aluminum strap for the hanger, which is bolted to the top plate with stainless fasteners (and 3/8” aluminum spacers to make room for the bulkhead fitting nut). The hanger strap was bent at 90° on top for the bolts to pass through, then a small bend at the bottom to prevent the pump from sliding down. I also created small slots for the pump retention straps to ride in, again to prevent sliding down. The straps are stainless “zip ties”, similar to header wrap retainers.

The short 6” piece of submersible hose was cut in half, where I spliced in the one way check valve, since Walbro pumps are known for not retaining pressure. The hose is held in place with stainless oetiker single-ear clamps.

Electrical connections are simply #10-24 stainless fasteners, insulated using the method described here by dayj1:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...7&postcount=10

...and held in place with stainless nylock nuts on the outside of the plate.

The sandwich ring was already in place from Boyd’s, who setup all of their tanks to accept their drop-in pump assemblies. The supply elbow bulkhead fitting is one that transitions from -6an to a 5/16” barb to connect to the pump feed. It is sealed where it passes through the plate with an Earls stat-o-seal (o-ringed crush washer). The only non-stainless or aluminum I used in the whole deal were the zinc plated stover nuts on the hanger bolts, since I don’t trust that nylock nuts are actually made of nylon and won’t be affected by fuel. Everything that passes through the plate is threaded and sealed with anaerobic sealer, so hoping not to have any leaks :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Very nice work here sir. I like the use of some of the materials you used like the stainless steel zip ties. Of course the zip ties in the Tanks kit will be fine they are a nylon or some kind of fuel rated plastic. They are really nice and thick so don't get me wrong they are better quality then most manufactures would send(in case others are thinking of this kit), but the SS ties are a nice touch.

You know I had to go buy a longer piece of submersible hose myself because the one in the kit was just long enough for the 10" of arm that comes with it and I needed an extra 3". Boy is that stuff expensive! I looked at getting a 3' piece and its was like $40-$50 or something!! :jdp:

The anaerobic sealer is another nice touch. The Tanks kit comes with all the SS screws with little rubber o-rings on them but this worries me some years down the road are they going to dry out and crack and etc... I did put a little antisieze on the bolts though. And if I ever have to replace the pump inside, those o-rings will have to be replaced...

I welded my ring to my blazer/suburban tank with small tack welds. Which this of course meant I had to remove the nice coating on the tank, which then meant steel exposure, which then meant I had to use a sealer to keep the rust at bay. And now that I am typing this I just realized the piece of galvanized steel I cut to length to extend the tanks arm, well I didn't put any sealer on the edge I cut, so I hope that doesn't rust on me cuz I'm pretty sure the ACE hardware galvanized steel sheets are just a coating.... I dunno... :rolleyes:

Anyway, great job and thanks for the information here. On my next truck/car I plan to have a lot more time for custom fabrication and will use this as inspiration/ideas.


:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and that’s the last of the fuel connections :cool:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks buddy, glad to be of service :lol: Shame it’s all hidden in the tank now

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

For sprint_9

Here’s the measurement from my filler neck. Also included a pic of the hole I cut centered over the neck in my floor, the tape approximates where the metal strips would lay on a wood floor

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Pretty close to the same as what I have. I figured it was about an inch offset if running a wood floor. Thanks for the info.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

So, this happened today:

I kept staring at the back of the cab, wondering what to do about the driveshaft. I finally just said screw it and started cutting. Everything clears well, just needs a cover, which I have on order, but will have to see if I have time to install it before we go...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

One more shot with some “cosmetic” cuts and the protective wrap removed

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That front shot looks soooooo good, Chris!!!:metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Doug, I agree! That was a great moment, can’t wait to see that angle, but on the ground

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I usually get more done when I approach things this way.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks great, what did you order to cover it?

I had a bout with that scenario this weekend, too!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haha, yep, I scratched my head long enough, but now I have to really think about how to properly fix it. At least the driveshaft is in...
Ooh, I remember cutting those. Scary business, for sure.

This is the piece I supposedly have on the way, though I haven’t seen tracking yet, hmmm... It’s more than is needed and will require heavy “customization”

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ever met a guy excited about hose clamps? This guy is excited about hose clamps!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Now we’re talkin’

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

:metal::metal::metal::metal::metal::metal::metal::metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It all just looks so... Right!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

There's a lot of "big time" truck builders on the internet, that could learn a few things from you, about getting the bed of a truck, in line with the cab and front fenders.
It doesn't require a lazer,... string will do the same thing.
Its one of my biggest pet peeves.

Your truck looks great!