Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

You can never have enough clamps. Getting this dash back in place wont be too difficult, but you can definitely see I'm in need of some more clamps, and here I was thinking I had enough :crazy:

Also admiring the paint match on the dash to kick panel, not exact but close enough for government work! :lol:

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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Clamps and lots of them. That's good to know since I've never had one out. I'm sure that I will on my C-50. Good work Kyle.

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Your doing a nice job making sure you get as much creep rust as you can. It would be a disappointment if you got the whole cab done and 3 years later rust was appearing in spots. Going backwards is not fun. Keep up the good work

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Ive never had one out either, this is my first one, but going well if I do say so myself. I was expecting a lot of work but its been rather straight forward. I had a small spot of rust breakthrough inside the driver side a-pillar where it met the dash, and had to cut the dash for the Vintage Air, so it made sense.

Like they say "while Im here..." :lol: but thats really what I keep coming back to, is thinking of going this far and not going a touch further and then having rust creep into the seams would be an incredible bummer. I appreciate it!

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Although Im a ways away from having the seat in its final spot, I just had to toss it in the truck and see how it felt, and man oh man Im happy with it. I think this seat will wear well and will really make this interior a talking point. I also want to thank n2billet for putting this design on his Tiffany. It was the inspiration for the layout of this bench.

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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

More pix.... because.... why not!

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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Welded dash back in, and installed the Altman Easy Latches. Kind of looking like a truck now!

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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Moving towards getting the roof installed, while I waited on the rain to stop so I could sandblast the new skin, I cleaned and painted the windshield pinchweld frame, after I ground down the dash welds. Once I had the roof blasted I etch primered and top coated with some black paint.

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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Roof will be installed in the next week or so. I will be using the SEM panel bond glue to hold the rear seam down, I have spot weld punches every 6 inches or so, a bit closer in the front to keep it from lifting. I see a lot of people mixing these two practices together so I think this will hold well. My first time using it, so we will see.

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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Excellent work and build thread! You've made quite a lot of progress in the last year.

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Thank you! Funny you say that, it actually has been 1 year since I bought it (Jan 30th 2022). The only thing holding me up from moving forward is the weather. My garage is insulated but when its 35 outside it makes it 55 inside, and thats too cold for me to paint. So waiting for better weather to help me along!

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Did you drill and weld/fill all those tack welds around the perimeter of the firewall or fill and block the rest? Beautiful work.

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

I actually have not used any filler on the truck yet, just weld solid and grind flat with 36 grit discs/belts and then hit with 80 to clean the appearance. Areas welded that aren't exposed to everyone when assembled (cowl area and such) I will cover the welded area with seam sealer. Thanks!

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Hurry up and wait is the game here in my garage! Waiting on temps this week to reach 60, so I can glue my roof. Meanwhile, I decided to get a 8 inch booster and flush mount it, like how Delmo did on Nacho. I needed to ditch the bolt on the steering column bracket, so I decided to section in a new side to it to relocate the bolt hole. Im sure one bolt would have been fine, but I felt better with two. Recessed the firewall brace with some 1/8 plate, welded it all and repainted to match. No one will ever see it, but I will always know if I hack something :lol:

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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Pix for others to use as reference if needed :chevy:

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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

And the roof is ON! Fully glued and welded. I did this single handedly, what I did was put 2x4s under the roof skin in place, so I could put down the glue on each surface, and drop into place. It worked out just how I hoped. Now to let it sit for a day or so and cure!

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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Awesome. Now you know rust won't be popping its head thru the windshield area in 20 months!

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Very impressive, great job!

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Nice work! This is going to be one hell of a clean truck when you're done and something you can be proud of.

I'm going back to your brake system mod. I really like the flush mount idea. Is that one of those power brake kits with the weird mounting bracket and pivot that sets the booster way off the firewall? If so, I'm wondering if you plan to incorporate the pivot somehow or if you are worried about excessive pedal travel if you do not include it. I have that booster/master combo with the bracket/pivot and it works well as designed, it just looks terrible sticking so far off the firewall. I'd like to maybe do this mod as well.

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Nice work!
You can't have too many clamps.

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Thats right! This roof stuff has been a headache, but in the end I'd say its worth it. Learned a lot, and can say at the least it was effective.
Thank you! :metal:
I got this setup off eBay, the 8inch dual diaphragm with a 1 1/8 disc/drum master, and it did come with the big bracket and bellcrank. I plan to do a direct mount of the pedal push rod, I am currently studying the design of the master/booster/push rod combo to understand what I need to do moving forward. What I understand is the factory manual brakes want 4:1 pedal ratio, and power brakes want 6:1, to my understanding I should be able to move the mounting point down 1" and accomplish something close to this, as long as it doesnt create a weird angle. I may end up modifying the pedal itself if thats the case.

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

and wrapping up my brake pedal pushrod situation. I decided to put the bellcrank under the dash by chopping up the bracket and welding it in place, this was all done to achieve a 4:1 pedal ratio. I cut a relief in the pedal assembly and bent some 1/8" plate to a smooth radius to reinforce where I removed, and welded in a 'leg' to support the bell crank pivot point. Brake spring clears after cutting the pivot shaft about 1/4", and I moved the pedal to bell crank push rod hole up .5" to make the ratio proper.

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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

This is the diagram I used:
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source (with addt'l info):
https://shop.wilwood.com/blogs/news/...o%20of%209%3A1.

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

That's some really fine engineering to get that mechanism to fit in such a compact and concealed location! I'm wondering how your measurements work out for this arrangement, because with flipping the pedal pushrod an master pushrod on the pivot shaft you are actually increasing the pedal ratio and thus increasing pedal travel to achieve the desired master cylinder travel. For example, in the Wilwood schematic if you flip the 2.67" and 4.00" your pedal ratio goes to about 9:1. Maybe I'm just not understanding the schematic/phots correctly. Have you had a chance to get a feel of the pedal yet?

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 

Good catch! I had not considered that, but to my calculations, if that is the case, I can drop the pushrod position on the original pedal accordingly to drop the ratio. The numbers on the diagram are not mine, just a given example from Wilwood. But given the case, if the bellcrank ratio flipped is 0.66:1, and I drop the main pedal ratio to a 2.8:1 then I will achieve about 4.2:1. Which will still help with my operating angles, and give me a proper pedal. The truck isnt back together yet, so I wont know about pedal feel until Ive got it reassembled.

EDIT: I added a diagram of my unit, with my setup + measurements and how I calculated mine with my flipped assembly.