Re: 1965 LWB Stepside Build
Glad to hear you guys made it through ok. Also glad the truck made it through lol
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It's Great to see the engine go in!
Glad the storm did not hit You to hard! |
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Got the transmission crossmember installed this week....so the engine and trans are nice and tight. I bought a new crossmember made for our trucks on ebay since the original wouldn't work with my transmission. Here is a link if anyone is interested...it is built very solidly and looks great too! I painted it black. For $175 it was cheaper and less aggravation that trying to make something myself.
Here is a picture from the ad...I will get some pictures later this weekend of it installed. Next on the agenda is installing the starter and wiring the engine, then running the fuel lines...hopefully I can do those this weekend. Getting closer! |
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Here are a couple of pictures as I was finishing up.
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Got my vintage air serpentine drive system installed today....starting to look like an engine.
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Getting closer to firing it up...by the end of the month for sure....Rained today so I couldn't really do much. I did get the rams horn exhaust manifolds painted with high heat primer and paint.
I think they are going to look great on the engine. Hopefully will get them installed tomorrow. Just went with a cast iron gray color. Hopefully they won't rust.. |
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Damn fine work!! I went through the entire post, good stuff!! Love the tranny!!
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Finished running the fuel lines to the FiTech. I have an in tank fuel pump, so I had to run the return line back to the tank. I need to torque the fittings on the fuel filter tomorrow. The picture reminded me I didn't torque them! I also need get the clamps to clamp the lines to the frame rail. The zip ties are just temporary.
I also sat the batwing air cleaner on just to see what it was going to look like. It looks better than I imagined. I love the old school look! |
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Awaiting results on the FITECH.
Saw a car at a car show recently. Had FITECH on a GM 502 Crate with a cam. Sounded mean. He was using a mechanical fuel pump to feed the FITECH fuel canister and high pressure pump. Mechanical was a lift pump to avoid having to modify a stock fuel tank. Though he did have to add a return line. CT |
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Nice work. I like your choices. I am also going with the Ram horns and the bat wing air cleaner. The ram horns sound awesome. I don't know what your clearances are but I had to go with a mini high torque starter for the exhaust to fit correctly.
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Right now, I can't get my rams horn to fit. They hit the firewall...since my distributor is real close to the firewall too, I am going to move the engine to the front mounts. I am deciding between 2 different mounting perches... CPP confirmed that I don't have to notch the frame to make them fit. I heard on the western ones I do, but I am trying to confirm. CPP https://www.speedwaymotors.com/CPP-6...nt,268489.html Western Chassis https://www.performanceonline.com/19...-Brackets-V-8/ |
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Moving the engine forward 2 1/2" so I have more clearance for the HEI distributor and my rams horn exhaust. Right now the exhaust hit the firewall...not good. I didn't really like how close the distributor is to the firewall either.
So I did research and bought the POL motor perches for 63-67 C10's on their ebay site. It was a better price than ordering direct from their website. I read where these perches had to have the frame notched to fit. I talked to POL directly and they said that was not the case anymore. These are for the wide frame trucks. The "newer" trucks had the frame already notched. You can see the wide mounting bracket at the bottom of the picture and on their web page. Unfortunately all their installed pictures show the narrow frame rail...which is why I was nervous. I received the perches and motor mounts along with hardware this week and will be moving the engine tomorrow (weather permitting). Here is a picture of the perches, mounts and hardware. I decided to go with rubber mounts for now...I may swap to polyurethane mounts down the road. I've already loosened bolts on the current perches so it will be easier to get off in the morning. I hand tightened them back so they aren't too loose. Will update more tomorrow as we do the install. |
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I also bought a lot of other things this week:
Earls power steering hose and fittings New repop of the high hump transmission cover front section ARP Stainless bolts for my Rams Horn Exhaust Finned aluminum radiator cap I am also thinking of painting my valve covers alpine green. Just to give the engine a little pop of color. I eventually want to get PML SBC Valve Covers. I love the old school look and think they are gorgeous. Getting closer to firing up the engine...hopefully next week. |
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Hopefully the writeup below will help someone in the future. If you have questions, ask here or send me a PM and I would be more than happy to help. Pictures are below also if you want to skip the semi DIY... :)
Also as an FYI, this worked for me because I have to get my drive shaft shortened anyway...so it was no big deal. Got the perches installed and the engine moved this morning. Was not as hard as I had anticipated. We supported the engine from underneath with a jack and a 2x6 and the transmission with another jack and 2x6. I removed the bolts for the trans crossmember to the frame and the engine mount and perch on one side only...kind of did it like a motor mount swap except we had to get the perches and trans crossmember bolts out. I took the perch and mount out of the drivers side and installed the new motor mount to the engine, then slid the perch in and loosely bolted it to the mount. Then did the same to the other side. I had originally thought we would roll the engine and trans forward with the jacks, but my friend Carl had a brilliant idea. While both trans crossmember and engine perches were supported above the frame, we rolled the frame back the 2 1/2". Was so easy and worked great. The bolt holes lined up easily and we dropped the bolts and washer down into the frame and put the nuts on the underside so it wouldn't move...then did the same to the other side. Torqued everything up and was good to go. The engine looks so much better moved 2 1/2" forward...not close to the firewall at all anymore. The rams horn will fit easily now and I don't have to worry about the HEI distributor touching the firewall. I still need to drill new holes for the trans crossmember and bolt it back in place. I also want to clean up the frame where the OEM perches were and paint, but that is easy. All in all not a bad swap and looks great IMO. |
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Test fit the exhaust manifolds today...look good...just ned to run the plug wires a little better.
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Looking good man, keep up the good work and that thing will be done in no time.
I remember years ago seeing a truck with the plug wires under the manifolds on a rams horn setup like yours. I think he made a bracket that bolted to the back of the heads that the wires were secured to with the universal clamp style hold downs. |
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Here's how I ran my plug wires. Stock ram horns, but same idea.
I use factory replacement plug wires for a 77 corvette. Still works with the stock ramhorns, but 8mm for the HEI dizzy Your's is looking great! |
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I just used the stock throttle linkage. Hasn't given me an issue. |
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1454620993 |
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Finally ordered my shifter a few weeks ago. It was "delivered" last Friday, but I never received it. I thought someone had stolen it from my front porch (which happened last year with some packages). I called Fedex and the shipper, but I didn't think much would happen because it was "delivered". This morning on my front porch was a box...My Lokar 16" shifter arrived one week later...I assume it was delivered to a wrong address and the person finally brought it over? Not sure why it took a week, but at least I have it!
I have had this vintage Indian Motorcycle shift knob for years waiting to install in the truck. So I tried the knob on the shifter...perfect thread match. I had done research on the threads and that is one of the main reason I chose the Lokar shifter...it matched perfectly without an adapter. I didn't even get the entire shifter out of the package before I snapped a picture! I think it is going to look even better installed! |
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Got my power steering lines connected this week. Going to try and fire up the engine for the first time this weekend! Should be an awesome weekend.
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Following along on a great build. And thanks for the trans crossmember link.
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Trying to get the engine started...got it started once, but can't get it again. Trying to diagnose/figure out the FiTech EFI is a lot of information. Once I can get it started and can start it easily, I will start putting it back together...hope to be driving it before the enf of the year.
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I'm sure you'll figure it out man but 2 things I commonly check over are make sure you have plenty of ground wires (motor to frame,motor to cab etc) and check fuel pressure as close to the injection unit as possible. I had a friend chasing problem for week or more only to find out he had a block in a fitting after the gauge.
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Hopefully you haven't hurt the cam and lifters.
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Got the engine started today! Was not getting enough air...I still need to adjust that, but got it going. So excited.
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Were you able to immediately run the cam break in?
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Finally got back to the truck ...installed the Brake booster bracket, booster, and MC. We are supposed to get more storms today, but if not, will try to get on the hydraulic clutch MC and connect to the clutch pedal.
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Looking good! I was missing seeing updates on your truck. Glad to see that you've been putting some work in on it
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Thanks Christian...good to be back. I got the proportioning valve installed before online Church this morning...now it is raining, so at least I got something done today.
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I also forgot...right before all this started happening I got my seat recovered. It has been ready for a few weeks, but it is in SC and I haven't been able to go pick it up yet. Hopefully soon. I love the seat...will get better pictured when I actually get it...but it has a hint of green in the perforations of the seat. The person who did it also sandblasted the frame and painted it black before putting new foam on and making sure the slide feature worked as it should as well.
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