Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
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The two worst, most distorted sections of the door were cut out and I made repair pieces from the patch,
Attachment 1624967 Attachment 1624968 Attachment 1624969 the rest of the holes would be welded up. This is as far as got on Sunday the welds will require a fair bit of metal finishing but at least all of the welding is done on the door. Attachment 1624971 |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Sorry about the eye Ian, and this chest infection thing really is a bugger.
You have done very well with the repair. At least you have thick metal now. |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Great metal work once again. Sorry to hear you have been under the weather.
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Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Sorry to hear about your eye . I've been there and done that myself. I have to agree with your wife on the way you look with a patch though. Good start on the door
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Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
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I’ve finally got the door finished and ready for primer, the last few weeks have been bash-fill-sand ….Repeat :banghead:, I’m so glad it’s done.
Attachment 1638619 I also need to paint the door shut before I hang the door, I began prepping it a few weeks ago and discovered bondo in the windscreen pillar (oh dear) a bit of grinding revealed the drip rail was rotten. Attachment 1638620 Luckily once it was removed the actual windscreen pillar turned out to be solid (albeit a little pitted). I ordered new ones from Steve Lang at Langy’s Rod Shop, sadly Steve passed away shortly afterwards following a long battle with cancer and the world lost another great hotrodder and all round good guy (RIP Steve). Using the old rail as a template I drilled holes in the new rail to “spot weld” them on. Attachment 1638621 Attachment 1638622 The welding was a very straight forward task, however, finish grinding was a bit of a pain as the access is tight. I read a number of threads where the owners had used panel adhesive to attach the drip rails, I’ve never used it before so “bottled it”. I may give it a try on the other side (if it needs doing) Anyway it’s fitted and seam sealed, next job is to prep and paint the door shut. Attachment 1638623 |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
I know how you feel about the filling and sanding Ian! Ive still got plenty to do even yet!
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Looking good Ian. |
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I love that Ian just quietly gets on with stuff. Those door patches look awesome every time I look at them. |
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I am sure it will be heart and souls destroying digging deeper and deeper, but it has to be done. Getting it right really is the only option, as Ian and you have I Demonstrated. |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
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Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
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A little more progress this weekend. Not a lot to say really, but a few pictures
I have managed to get the passenger side door inner painted Before Attachment 1645491 After Attachment 1645492 Attachment 1645493 Also got a the door check prepped Attachment 1645496 and primed Attachment 1645497 |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
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I got a top / finish coat on the door check and rocker panel
Attachment 1645498 and with the paint I had left I got a guide coat on the fender Attachment 1645499 |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Nice repair to that door Ian, but why does everyone want to cut great big speaker holes in them!
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Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Great repair on the door . All I can say is there is more getting on up north than down south . You and bill are really starting to make headway.
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I am closing the holes in my doors as well when I get to them. That door repair really looks great Ian. I think our excuse down South is that we have both had stuff happen and continue happening behind the scenes that needs tending, taking Focus away from hobbies. I really do hope Martin posts up a 10 photo report or more than that of the one project he has been on recently. You guys will be blown away. I certainly was. |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Great repair work on your door and the paint is looking very nice too.
The type of work you do inspires the rest of us. |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
You are doing some fantastic metal work. Looking real good!
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Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Nice work on the door Ian. The repairs came out really smooth
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Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
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Very quick update,
After finishing the inside of the passenger door I got it hung and painted this weekend Attachment 1647936 Attachment 1647937 Got the fender finished too Attachment 1647938 The bad news is that I have to start the drivers side rust repairs now :waah: |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Your progress continues to make me smile.
Sitting here on a train to London its a good thing to read first thing in the morning. Well done, again. |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Nice progress Ian Paint is looking good.
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Man that color is familiar.
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Apologies for the non-truck related post, but I thought I would share a bit of a cautionary tale.
My Mum always says “never say never, you’ll live to regret it” and I must say I try hard to live by this but now and again I suffer a lapse or two. Previous lapses have included, "I’ll never go to see Dianna Ross", "I’ll never shave my head". "I’ll never wear a pink tie" (the list goes on):lol: Now, in the UK before you can ride a motorcycle on the road you must pass your Compulsory Basic Training test(CBT), this allows you to ride on the road but you are limited to the size and power of the motorcycle until you pass a full test. A couple of weeks ago my wife passed her CBT and has bought a motorcycle, “Hun” she said “you’ll have to get another bike too so you can ride with me”. She didn’t have to ask twice.:bann: And so, to my most recent lapse, anyone who knows me will know I love motorcycles and especially the air cooled “big twin” variety. A year or two back I was out for dinner with friends and (and I do recall saying this) I said “I will never buy a liquid cooled Harley, Harley’s should be air cooled”. Well what do you know, look what showed up at my house today. In my defence, I got a really good deal on it. :metal: Attachment 1651151 Attachment 1651152 Attachment 1651153 I don’t think I’ll regret this one. |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Well done , you'll enjoy riding it this summer. But it'll make progress on the truck slow down and I am speaking from experience
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Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Nice bike. Looks like fun
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Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Just Lovely Ian.
Congrats. |
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You know those 10 minute jobs, the ones that turn out to be not quite the 10 minute job you thought, well I've just finished one.:lol: A while back I bought a pair of Jeep Cherokee check links to replace the ones that came with the truck (yes honestly this was the passenger side check link) Attachment 1652530 I got them on eBay with nuts and roll pins for about $15 including shipping, a bargain I thought,:metal: Attachment 1652532 Having my newly painted door with nothing stopping it opening to the point of destruction was not ideal, I had 10 minutes spare so I thought "I know I'll fit the check link". :dohh: I soon hit a bit of a problem was the original screws were seized solid, I could have taken them out before the door was painted or actually hung and adjusted (Like any sensible person might have done) but oh no. :dum: Attachment 1652531 I tried releasing oil, a long bar and even cutting a slot in one to see if a straight bit would grip better than a pozi all to no avail. There was no room to drill and I didn't want to take the door off so I broke out the die grinder and a ball end carbide burr ( a risky strategy with a freshly painted door) and ground the middles of the screws out. Attachment 1652533 Any way about an hour and a half later my 10 minute job was complete, It really is unbelievable how well these work, you would swear they were OE Attachment 1652534 |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
What a lovely piece in the passenger door.....:mm:
The Cherokee units seem to be the perfect replacement. And thy can be adjusted to suit. |
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I have decided to clear off the un-finished jobs list before doing the driver’s side cab repairs. These jobs include rebuilding the rear brakes then finishing up the brake lines and bleeding the system, they also include getting a choke cable on the carb, running the engine up properly, doing the timing etc. and filling the trans after its rebuild. Another job to do is the panhard bar. You may remember from a while back in this thread I discovered that my truck has a ’65 rear axle, I realised this only after I had ordered a 64 panhard bar from POL. Because of length and bracket position I couldn’t use either a 64 or 65 bar. Attachment 1654201 So when life gives you lemons and all that….. If I have to shorten the bar I have a number of options, I could simply cut and weld, I could make it adjustable at both ends or by using a LH thread rod end and weld insert I could make it adjustable without removing it (it will work like a turnbuckle). This seemed the best option. I ordered a forged LH thread rod end from Speedway, and a LH thread weld bung from a local rally car supplier which even has flats milled onto it for easy adjustment. Attachment 1654202 These pictures show how much it had be shortened, one advantage of making it fully adjustable is that your measurements can be +/- about a ¼” and you’ll be fine. Attachment 1654203 Attachment 1654204 |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
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This is a suspension piece so a good prep is important to get effective weld penetration,
Attachment 1654208 A good trick when tacking things like this is to lay the job in a piece of angle bar while tacking up it helps keep things aligned and means you don't have to earth the job.. Attachment 1654209 I got in real tight and used plenty of heat to get good penetration, I’ve no way of rotating the bar while welding so I ended up doing 4 separate runs doing opposite sides to reduce distortion, I got a good strong weld but boy was it ugly. I dressed it back carefully on a grinding wheel and then dipped it in some gold paint just to stop the bare metal rusting (yes, I know the match is awful :lol: but I’ll find something that matches better another time) Attachment 1654210 I ended the day by trying it “for a fit”. I will need to ensure I can set it level once the truck is built up so I‘ll probably drill another couple of pairs of holes in it so I can adjust the height if needed, I’m not sure whether to weld or bolt the chassis bracket in place (any suggestions?), but that’s a job for another day Attachment 1654211 Attachment 1654212 |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Having only read the first part of this on my phone while I was in the garage I was going to say hold from doing anything until I check out the spare Panhard Bar I have here, but looks like I'm too late.
If for any reason this doesn't work let me know and I'll look it out. |
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Well I've had a busy couple of weeks, I have changed jobs and now have a 2 hour commute to work (each way:waah:) so I am having to get used to that. I've also had a load of other stuff, including giving a friend mum her first ever pillion ride on a motorcycle, as part of her 80th birthday celebrations!!
Anyway I decided to bolt the panhard bracket to the frame rather than weld it, so made a simple plate to attach the upright brackets to, Attachment 1663417 I also drilled a couple of extra holes in the mounting bracket to give me some adjustment and allow me to compensate for any drop in ride height once the bed is back on. At the point the bracket attaches the frame runs up a little creating a gap this means the 2 “legs” on the bracket have to be different lengths in order to remain vertical. Attachment 1663418 It's always tricky measuring gaps like this, I use one of these, Attachment 1663419 This one is metric but you can buy them in inches too. I bought a few of these when I was last in Japan, this is the last one, removed from its wrapper specially for the occasion. Although intended as a bore gauge they are great for gaps too. Each increment on this one is 1/10 of a millimetre which is 4 thou so they are incredibly accurate. Before tacking you have to make sure the legs are vertical, square to each other and parallel. This really is one of those occasions where having 6 arms would be great :lol: Attachment 1663421 Attachment 1663420 |
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Wish Id gone that rout and made a bracket for the chassis rather than modifying the one on the trailing arm!
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A quick update on the panahrd rod. After getting everything tacked up the chassis bracket was welded and painted.
Attachment 1664728 Attachment 1664729 As mentioned in the last post I had decided to bolt the bracket to the frame, I found these great high tensile bolts and grade 8 nuts at my local suppliers, they have a nice low profile so don't hang down too far under the frame and have integral washers, Attachment 1664730 The bracket looks good bolted up (if I do say so myself :lol:) Attachment 1664731 Attachment 1664732 |
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And everything lined up great
Attachment 1664741 Before Attachment 1664742 And after Attachment 1664743 I picked these flow masters up a week or two back, they've been used (but not much) at £60 ($76 ) for the pair I couldn't say no, so I guess I'll be thinking about the exhaust next :lol: Attachment 1664744 |
Re: Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England
Great job on the bracketing Ian.
And those Flowmasters.... :metal: I paid a lot more for mine. You did well. |
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