Re: 55-57 one piece windows
anyone still have the template i can use???
Thanks Ray |
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thanks for getting back to me Ray |
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i have those and that is great stuff i was looking for the template to build the window itself.
thanks Ray |
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I have the one piece glass kit that came with the truck but the windows didn't fit all that great so when i saw the template for the glass on here i down loaded it to my PC well i didn't get to it right away and i lost everything on my PC so now i need the template so i can have new glass cut i don't have it. i don't know if it is me or what but i one of the members site it said template but when i click on it, it don't work.... story of my life so i was just asking if any one still had it on there PC if they would send it to me. I want to see the different s between what i have for glass and what black diesel came up with . Thanks Ray |
Re: 55-57 one piece windows
I have a .pdf window template, but its too big to attach and up load to this forum.
If you PM me your e-mail address I'll forward on to you. |
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Re: 55-57 one piece windows
Hi guys, just wondering if someone would be able to email me the PDF template for the windows. All window kits that are sold locally in Australia are way to expensive $1300 none electric and $2600 electric any help would be greatly appreciated
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Re: 55-57 one piece windows
Aussie chev pickup PM me your e-mail address and I'll forward the template.
I have made electric window lifts utilising the original manual lifts, removing the small hand cranked pinion and replacing with an electric window lift motor out of a modern vehicle. In my case I used a lift motor out of a Lexus LS400, which had a similar tooth pitch to the original chevy, and I cut and welded in the LS400 motor carrier so the motor engaged with the chevy regulator quadrant gear. I'm sure that there will be other lift motors out there that could be adapted. |
Re: 55-57 one piece windows
I found the video's earlier this year and have done the modifications.
One of the windows seams to be to wide and the other works ok-ish. I think the door template could do me some good. I PM ed you Roarinrat. I have a 1956 chevy Truck https://i.imgur.com/srNnVA1.jpg?1 |
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Jim |
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Thanks jim
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idbeast sent me the window template file
I have already done the youtube mod's earlier this year but I'm still not there, i will work on it some more and update. I also have bear claw latches that I'm doing too, they will fit if you get the right ones. I will update. This site has helped me, so I will help back. |
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1st thing
If you have vent windows I would leave them in. let me say that one of my door came off some other truck, also my cab is a 4B, 1-1/2 ton cab I don't think if matters. One of the mods that was not on the youtube. I moved the nylon roller down It made the window go up at a different angle. the door hings is to the right and the door latch is to the left. https://i.imgur.com/lmlc0UI.jpg?1 My truck had 1 piece windows when I got it but none of the youtube mods, had been done, so I did the mods a while back and now I am trying to finish up. So the 1st thin I did was to pull out the old felt channel around the window and down in the doors and put the old glass in and roll up the window. I cut some poster board to get the upper corners tighter and taped them on, also going down the sides I had to add some. I laid myglass down on a 1/4" thick plywood and traced around and made my changes to get the glass to fit tight. https://i.imgur.com/RF8GhKp.jpg?1 This corner has to be cut off enough to keep the window from binding when you first roll up the window and on the way down. https://i.imgur.com/FIoRFzJ.jpg?1 So I bent my new felt channel around the window and put everything in (no glue), so after trimming the plywood down several times I have it going up and down smoothly. I think this will be a air leak at this point. Note: one template will not work for both sides, so I will have two different size windows. https://i.imgur.com/4A8B80S.jpg?1 So I cut a piece of 18 ga. steel bent it on my cheep Harbor F break and cut relief cut in.AS you can see it's going to take care of my leak hopefully . https://i.imgur.com/LIL0pa1.jpg?1 I had to make a inside piece too. https://i.imgur.com/1PqxiBX.jpg?1 So more and more trimming and twisting I go it to fit. A couple tacks here and there and hammer it to fit before welding more So a short piece of the YM54R-96 felt should fix it. https://i.imgur.com/y3D75iI.jpg?1 All finished. https://i.imgur.com/VvgIKoT.jpg?1 |
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When I did the youtube mods for the windows. I made sure the old door catches would fit.
I did Tool and Die and machine work for 28 years and lot's of fabrication also. but never on a car or truck. This was not a easy job. I found some bearclaw latches that were 3/4" thick and 1-1/4" wide ( do a search for images) and you will see the one showing the measurements. So I made a bracket and tacked it on. The latch is realy close to the window channel that was in the mods. and you want to hold it out close to the back of the cover panel for the window and door lever cover https://i.imgur.com/UCGfHMx.jpg?1 I had to do some trimming just above the original door catch HOLES. I can still take this off and go back for now to the factory catches. https://i.imgur.com/EpvFHF6.jpg?1 So leaving that tacked I started work on the catch post so I had to cut most of the bracket off (see the sharpe lines https://i.imgur.com/yjMkA7G.jpg?1 cut and made a filler piece to weld in. https://i.imgur.com/5gYgAaN.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/KEeJ1wu.jpg?1 NO TURNING BACK NOW I'm all in Welded the slots up too. where my finger is I had to shave off a goog bit to keep the bare claw latch and cover from hitting. If you look close behind the pin , the bracket had to slide behind the door post frame see the crack. https://i.imgur.com/E9rGGyq.jpg?1 The cove I made had to be a tight to the bracket and latch so it would clear when closing the door. Hopefully all this will hold up and work proper. https://i.imgur.com/eqBNcgO.jpg?1 Now I had to make all the brackets to get the outside factory door handle to work. It just barely fits behind there. I will say it again ( I would not do this again with the window and latch on the same truck) https://i.imgur.com/8DHoEzt.jpg?1 I"m waiting for my glass to get cut and see how it all works. |
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nice work thanks for sharing
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I've always wondered if this type of install would work, I have the same latches just for this when I get time,, thanks for doing it first and showing how to do it!!!!
Tink |
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Thanks
Good luck waybad |
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Just glued the window felts in after two days of generally screwing around with them. Good enough for who it's for. THANKS TO ALL for your tips in this thread! (...and yes, it's an old thread, but deserves to be bumped!)
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you glued them in , instead of screwing them in? looks like they came out pretty good, where did you get you felts at?
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i like the chrome on them myself.
Ray |
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The pictures show the profile and the view looking down. Thanks, lowdownstar! |
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brilliant! I think Iam goin to go this route. thanks for posting bud
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I got some questions in a PM, so I'm posting answers here:
Q1: Were you able to 'curve' these up to match the profile of the door? Q2: Also, (your opinion) do you think that a plastic push pin or something would work to secure them to the doors? Q3: Is the metal bead on these chrome or stainless? A1: (See picture) Yes, I curved them by cutting them a little long, then I grabbed the unneeded tip with a good pair of needle-nosed vice grips. I then clamped a small rubber mallet in a vice and bent (pushed) them over the head of the hammer, a little at a time. Repeat about 100 times. :lol: Then I cut off the part that I had crunched with the vise grip, then round it using the grinding wheel. You have to clip most of the felt part off of the part you want to curve because it's backed up with stainless. Leave the "bump" right below the exposed stainless that's about 1/8" wide. I cut the felt using a Harbor Fright air saw, then straightened the cut using the grinding wheel. A2: The push pin would have to be very small, and would have to grip very tightly to keep the felts from moving around. The ones I've used tend to jiggle around. I don't think it would work well, but I've been wrong before.The factory used a very small flat head sheet metal screw. The glass won't hit it if you draw it all the way in, and with the strips I chose, the felt wraps around and covers the screw head. A3: The metal bead is stainless, and you can polish it. |
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This is awesome and I bet the wind noise is completely gone,, well done!:metal::metal:
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I have not checked about the truck, but I have put 2 sets of New Relics power windows in my 34 and 35 chevys. they not only asked me if I had tubed the cars which I had. (removed the wood frameworks) but also if I had removed the windwing windows, which I had. They not only gave me templates for the mounting holes in the doors but gave me extended window slots and stabilizers for the longer windows.
I love those guys. |
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thanks for all the great tips!
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Has anyone used the one-piece glass from Auto City Classics? Is it the correct size? I want to use smoked glass and get all of the pieces from the same vendor so there is no variation in tint.
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My advice? Use the template in this thread and have the glass made locally. Option two, make your own template out of cardboard. Option three, use an old factory piece of glass as a template and give that to the local shop. Others, please chime in here. |
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