Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

It's the same re-pro tank that most vendors sell. I got lucky that he one sitting around. It saved me a few bucks.

I don't think it matters...or that is to say I hope it doesn't.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

If the repros are all the same then I guess it matters if I want my truck 96% american and 3% china 1% mexico.. My main concern is if the repro tank doesn't line up like it should, but seems like you didn't have any fitment issues and it sure does look nice

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Here's a pic of a repro tank that was installed in my jimmy by the P/O.

Looks to fit ok.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I went with the Repo tank and straps on mine. The filler neck is a real pain. I spent an hour up stairs at a Napa to get a hose that would work to connect to the tank and get around the body mount, I guess i could og cut off the old neck. Other than that I had no other fitment issues at all.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I'm ordering a new steel tank and have the neck swapped.

Got the tub back from media blasting. Came out real nice. I was worried about the rear quarter panel but there was only a very thin layer of bondo from when it was i a wreck back in the late 70's.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

more pics

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Tub looks good. Having good metal is 90% of the battle.
I'm still debating whether to refurb my tank or swap the neck to a new ones. Opinions are about a 50/50 split.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Thanks! They're going to do all the body work next. fix a few dents and remove the bondo and fix the curved lip of the rear wheel well. He's also going to repair the dash so I can put the original am Radio back in.

I took my tank, the one with all the dents to the guys I'm working with at the body shop and he immediately said "F... fixing that, buy a new steel one and swap the necks. I'm not sure how bad yours is, but if you are putting in a brand new engine like me, why take the chance.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Mike...that tub looks fantastic. I am so jealous of that metal. You are doing such an awesome job.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Nice!

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Tub looks great!! Your very lucky!

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Thanks a lot guys! I guess I can't complain to much about the PO mods he made to the frame since he left me with a nice metal

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Now that the tube is back it's crunch time. I have less than 2 months to put together a full rolling chassis before they're ready to mount the body back on the frame for final assembly.

1. I have most of the plumbing done
2. Assemble front axle and mount
3. E-brake cables
4. Mount Engine, Trans, and T-Case
5. Drive shafts
6. Radiator Core and Radiator.
7. :crazy:

Anybody want come help?

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Nice job! everything looks great! I would love to come and help out! It would sure beat the -20 degree weather that we are having here.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Thank Jimmy. -20 damn. I remember those cold winter months when I went to WMU and lived in Kalamazoo for 3 years. I sure don't miss those brutal winters

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I'm having a bad case of Murphy's Law consistently with this truck..

I installed the passenger side steering knuckle in less than 10 minutes.. No problem, torqued the lower ball joint nut 70 lbs of torque, spanner nut @ 50 lbs, and the top ball joint king nut @ 100 lbs..

I'm thinking this is great, I'll have this axle fully assembled with wheels on and back on the truck tonight..

NOPE!!!

The drivers side knuckle is giving me hell. I spent 4-5 hours last night trying every possible reason why the upper ball joint stud wont side all the through the spanner nut.. I tried adjusted how much I had the ball joints seated and various other tactics.

I'm stumped... When I torque the lower at 70 lbs and then i try to torque the spanner nut, it continues to spin through past the edge of last thread causing it to push the upper ball joint stud down...

Here's a pic.. you can see the upper ball joint is not all the way through the spanner.. this is as far as it would go, even with the lower torqued down.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Where did you / are you buying your tank?

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Not sure yet.. Still researching the best place to get it.. I think they all come from the same manufacturer but i could be wring..

I called Early Classic because they're only 3 hours away and figured I'd save on shipping cost, but they told me they would have to order it from somewhere (didn't say where) and it would take 1-2 weeks for them to get it

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I guess you are trying to keep it as stock as possible. Just my 2 cents, Since it will be covered I would have 1 made.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Mike I'm not sure I fully understand your problem, and I know you've had these things apart a couple of times, so I know you know what your doing... but I completely know how you feel. I fought my front axle at several spots. And it's only more frustrating when you've got your final finish on there. You're better than me, in that you powdered coated. All my axle bits are painted. Anyway, I fought the top ball joint adjusting sleeve. I couldn't get it torqued to spec without blowing it out the bottom (this may be what your saying). Then when I did get to the castle nut, it ended up well below the hole for the cotter pin. I put it together and took it apart a hand full of times. The two things that were really helpful to me were:

#1) This thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=430367&page=6 (you may already be aware of this one, but his final sequence of torquing things was very helpful to me, and what I used)

#2) I rolled the axle upside down. For some reason (probably gravity ;) ), it seemed easier to get the ball joint to bite in the taper, and the angles seemed easier to work with on the jack stands. I don't really see why it would make a difference but it did for us.

...none of this may help you at all...but at the very least, just know I feel your frustration...and your post allowed me to instantly re-live it. And you'll get it. Your will is stronger than the truck's. It has to be.

Edit: Corrected the link...the first showed the sequence, but his build thread has more info.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Hey Brad, thanks a lot for sharing this. The same issue you had is the exact same for me. The spanner nut wants to push through past the threads in the housing.

Is post #144 in the thread the one you are talking about in reference to the sequence? I haven't tried this yet, but I think I'll give it a shot tomorrow after work.

Fortunately, the powder coat holds up well and I've managed to not chip it with all of the attempts I've made at it.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Yep. That's the one. Good luck.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I just got caught up on your build. Man am I jealous of all that solid sheet metal. I know I've said it before, but you're doing a great job on the build, but 3 weeks since an update? I hope you're just that damn busy and not stalled on the Blazer.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Thanks a lot. Appreciate the compliments

I have been very busy (both work and working on the truck) I'm waiting to finish a couple of things before I do a big update. Hopefully, I wont be doing this weekend:banghead:

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

It's been a while since I've had any worthy update, but I believe I hit a milestone today.

I have a ROLLING CHASSIS!:barn:

Earlier in my build thread I had issues with the Willwod calipers rubbing against the rim. I finally found a solution but it wasn't easy to figure out. I'll get to this in just a moment, but let me recap what I've been doing the last 4 weeks.

So I had the front axle ready to go until I broke off one of the bolts that holds the dust shield to the steering knuckle (twice) Yeah, that right I managed to do it two times in a row..

The first time the bolt was really stuck in there so I had to grind some of the metal off and then drill it out. I put a heli coil in as a replacement.. Then I went to assemble the wheel hub and steering knuckle for the 37th time.. btw - I found how do seat the spanner nut and ball joint studs right the first time.

I decided to read through the service manual very thoroughly this time around and in the fine print underneath the standard instructions it says

1. place the steering knuckle studs inside the C clamp.
2. Tighten the top king nut snug enough to keep the stud and steering knuckle from moving.. not torqued to spec, but just snug enough to keep the knuckle from moving side to side..
3. Then torque the bottom to spec 70 lbs
4. torque the spanner to spec 50 lbs
5. torque the upper to spec 100 lbs

Works like a charm. You will notice the steering knuckle starts to losing as you tighten the upper ball joint nut, giving it that smooth free flow with just a little bit of drag.

So after I broke the 2nd bolt off the dust shield / knuckle, this time I welded a washer to make the surface flush again because last time I grinded it down after the first time. I then used a washer on the back side and two washer on the front and made the new thread size bigger and this time it worked.

So after spending the last 2 weekends dealing with that I finally was able to make some progress.

Remember the Wilwood Calipers that where rubber the inside of the wheel? I found a solution and it works.

1. I used a .250 (1/4") spacer.
Attachment 1380846


5. Mounted the rims and had enough clearance
Attachment 1380850

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Heres a couple pics of the axle . I added a set of Baer crossed drilled rotors

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I pulled a all nighter yesterday and installed the fuel & brake lines, leaf springs, shocks, stabilizer, steering rod, tie rods, front diff skid guard and now I can say I have a rolling chassis. I've been waiting for this day a long time.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

some more pics

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Fantastic Mike...great progress, great job! Worthy foundation for that spotless tub. Way to fight through the bumps and snags.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Thanks, Brad that means a lot. I cant wait to drop the engine and trans to see see what it looks like.

Hopefully it's more down hill from here!

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Looks great. A few questions.
What Absorbers are you using and what Steering stabilizer? Looks like the body of it clears the front springs.
On your Rear brake lines. The brass union between the 2 rear lines and the single hose, did you clean up your original or buy a new one?
Why did you install the bolts on the top of the Engine cross member from the bottom up with the nuts on the top of the frame?

I might be asking you some more questions about when you did your ball joints. I'm going to be tackling my front axle in 2 weeks and I'm not sure I totally understand the proper way yet.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Thanks, TJ
I'm using Skyjacker Monotube shocks and stabilizer. They are the stock stock height shock absorbers. You have to install the stabilizer first before you install the steering rod or else there is not enough room for it squeeze through.

The reason I installed the bolts on the top of the Engine cross member from the the bottom up is because I looked backed through my pictures when I tore it down and that's how they where. I'm not sure if that is stock or not. I do know the OE replaced the motor at one point so he might have installed them that way.

I cleaned up my original brass union.. When I took it apart, it had a bracket that sits inside one of the differential cover bolts so that's why I kept it just to make sure everything when back together. The lines came from inline tube and i had to fight with them a little bit to make em fit.

The ball joint sequence is like this:
1. Slide the upper and lower stud inside the C-Clamp with the spanner flush at the top.
2. Next step is to tighten the upper king nut so it is snug fit.. Just enough so that the knuckle doesn't turn when tightening the lower.
3. Tighten the lower nut to 7o ft lbs
4. Take off the upper king nut
5. Tighten the spanner to 50 ft lbs.
6. Tighten the upper king nut to 100 ft lbs.. If the hole is not visible enough to slide the cotter pin keep tightening the upper until you have enough room to slide the cotter pin through.

Hope that helps. let me know if you have any questions..

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Beautiful work and attention to detail, well done. Glad ya got past your problems. Will be a great truck when done...thanks for sharing and taking the time to post up

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Looks amazing !

Mike as said before,your attention to detail is awesome.

Congrats on hitting this milestone.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

The rolling chassis is a hell of a milestone and it looks great. If you think you're jazzed now, wait till the engine, tranny and transfer case are in. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to the next update.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Wow! Chassis really looks good! Great project you got there!

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Looking fantastic!! Strong work. I will have a beer to celebrate on your behalf :)

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Thank you all. I really appreciate all the complements. It certainly helps keep me motivated.

TJ - I forgot to mention one little issue with the rear shocks. The bottom steel sleeve is about 1/8" or less of inch to long to fit inside the rear axle where the shock mounts too.

It's a simple fix. All I did was shave off just enough of the steel sleeve..Check out the pics below

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

nice rolling chassis...this is when the fun really starts.

where did you buy your fuel lines?
and, for the brake lines, what were the problems with inline tube?

i'm about the buy all new lines or bend lines myself...just trying to decide which route is best.
tom

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I bought the brake and fuel lines from Inline Tube. They're just a PIA to get them correctly line up, but they will. just take a little persuasion.

Currently, the only problem I see is the rear of the brake like does not line up with the bracket that extends out of the frame that connects the brake hose to the brake line.
I'm going to mess it later tonight to see if I can make any adjustments to so it lines up straight enough to go through the hole without having to force it.