Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

look inside the door and make sure the big gear on your regulator is topped out, if its not, you are binding in the channel. you could also possibly be bound by one of the screws that mount the glass hitting the roller.

if you are topped out on the big gear, I hate to say it but that is sometimes a problem I have heard of with new regulators.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Bought only the left one new. From Ecklers. Passenger side is original, needed new rollers and wd-40. I played with the little bit of adjustment I get and both windows go up and down smoothly. Both stop in same spot. Old and new.

I checked for binding and for rollers hitting screws. All is good. I don't get it...

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

:confused: thats weird, seems like I always have to crank them up that last 1/2 inch, but they always go.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

maybe you have to elongate the mounting holes to get the regulator to move up further.
before doing that id take the roller track off the bottom of the glass & see if the glass goes all the way up. I ran into the same kind of problem. turned out I had the wrong bolts in the channel and the rollers were hanging up on the bolt heads

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

In the up position that would be the middle two bolts right? I was worried about that same thing so I only have the two bolts on either end. No bolt heads to run into in the middle. When disconnected the window can be easily pushed the rest of the way up.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Because of the power steering I had to move the shock mounts. I measured everything off of the axle centerline I marked on the frame. I mirrored the measurements over and I got the mounts loosely on but I need to get some grade 8 3/8th bolts. Think I'll trim the mount when I get new bolts.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got up early and got a good 4hrs in today while my wife slept in. Buddy came by and we got the pinion angle set and engine crossmember finally welded completely. Carb is 0 degrees, end of trans is kinda between 3 and 4 degrees down and rear end is 3 degrees up. Next time I'm at hardware store I need a bunch of grade 8 bolts but drivetrain is set!!


Now to get my old driveshaft shortened, how do i correctly measure for that?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

awesome possum man!

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Good job.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

A PO cut off the rear shock mounts. Left the part riveted to frame but looks like torched off anything sticking off. And the bottom mounts look cut, I thought broke but noticed uppers purposefully cut.

I already have some shock mounts and I think I can grind smooth and drill a hole in old ones. This should work right? Shocks are fairly universal in ID size right?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got a bunch of 3/8 bolts. Unfortunately Lowe's only had 7 nuts. It'll get me started I guess. I got a few minutes in today and got the front cab mounts in. Tight fit and one is a tad crooked, and the cab sits a good half inch towards passenger... I think I'll have to revisit this and make some adjustments. I replaced the passenger support a while back and I may need to adjust the bolt hole a bit.

Tomorrow I plan to pick up a better tube bender on the way home. Crappy AutoZone one is bent out of wack and I can't get the fuel line to line up on it.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

It's always something. Are you using stainless tubing? That stuff is hard and needs a good bender.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Nope, I didn't care for this tool even on the smaller brake line. Kinda awkward to use. For something so big and bulky it's kinda pathetic lol.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got my fuel line bent and flared. That 3/8 ths line was a bit tough. I need a single line fuel pump, a little bit of rubber line and a few line clamps to finish it up.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got a few minutes in. With only 7 nuts I was able to replace bolts on one hanger and one shock mount. I did trim the shock mounts and painted black. Took a wire wheel to the rear axle, some black paint and it looks awesome!

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

that looks outstanding!

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Yeah, a little clean up, paint, it always looks good...Jim

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Shiny! Very nice.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got rear brake line bent and flared!! Just need the rubber one from axle to hard line now.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Finally fully secured steering column. Had to trim the dash brace. I was gonna leave it out but I got paranoid 10 minutes later.

Cleaned and paint E brake from c10, plan to put it in tomorrow.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Yesterday morning I started securing the brake lines in place. All done on the firewall and got a couple on the frame. I should have them done on the frame and the fuel line too this week.

I had my wife help me get them tightened up. Gave her the wrench while I was got them from the inside. She said it is starting to look like a truck lol.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Congrats! But we have to see pictures to confirm your wife's opinion.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Rear brake line is completely secured to frame now. I got home and had line clamps in the mail. So I thought I was going to start on the fuel line but I mistakenly ordered more 1/4 clamps instead of 3/8.

So I did the brake line lol. I had plenty of clamps.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got over to the hardware store yesterday to finally get more 3/8th nuts. I also decided to try some of this peel and seal. I've read mixed results on putting on the roof but I didn't see anything wrong with behind and under the seat.

It was pretty windy this morning so I did the inside cab stuff. First I attacked the cab with Fuze It. I sealed up every little spot I could find. All old holes... etc.. I'll need to go over those spots with a razor blade later.

Then the insulation went on and it looks pretty cool. Maybe now I can leave the seat in place. Someday I'd like a folding seat but I think I'll be ok for awhile lol.

Anyone got an opinion on peel and seal on roof and firewall?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

super great man! I use fuse it on the firewall holes too. if its a big hole I will cut a backing piece from some spare sheetmetal and fuze it.

I use peel and seal too. just a single layer gets 90% of the benefit (dampening resonance) so I just put a thick jute over it and its quiet!

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

This Fuze it stuff is awesome I'm glad you mentioned it.

You use it on the roof and firewall?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

So I realized I should've put seat belt anchors in before insulation. Thankfully it will be easy with seat out. Grabbed the seat belts I still had from donor. Picked up some hardware today and looked at Deves stovebolt site for a walk through. Donor belts are blue so I'll need to replace eventually but it'll be a while before I redo the seat.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I got nuts welded to huge washers... got them welded into place in the floor.... Then nut came loose but washer wouldn't budge... had to crawl underneath and weld up! I made sure I penetrated both pieces this time but got a good burn on my arm from falling crap.

Lesson learned, make sure welds are good and don't weld up.


Anyways, part of seatbelts in! Two middle pieces done and hardware is ready for bottom parts of retractor parts. I'm going to get lap part done and sit in to make sure I like 3rd anchor spot. Get the shoulder strap perfect.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Good that you got it fixed now. Welding is not as easy as some make it look. At least that's been my experience.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

overhead welding is perilous! I had a piece of slag go in my ear once

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Made anchors for shoulder points this morning. Had to make three.. because I dropped one inside the wall! Pretty bummed, broke a telescoping magnet. It was grabbing it but I think it twisted and Its stuck unless I do some cutting.

Someday when I can weld like you guys I might cut a hole, until then it's a new addition.


Seatbelts don't match but I'll buy new ones when I eventually redo seat. It's solid, done right, copied the kits I see online so I'm happy.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

As long as they are secure you are good.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Did you ever find the reason why your window wouldn't fully raise, or did I just miss that post?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Nope not yet, not sure how I wantbto go about it.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got my fuel line clamps in sooner than expected so started securing fuel line. All mounting holes for fuel tank got drilled too. Tank is finally bolted down but I need a couple more bolts for it and last couple fuel line clamps.

Also replaced all the front mismatched bolts with grade 8 3/8ths bolts. And both front shock mounts are on now.

So... I need a fuel pump and like a 7 inches of rubber line to finish fuel. And I need the axle to frame brake line to finish brakes.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I may have mentioned before that a PO cut up the rear upper shock mounts. I was looking up new ones and 30 bucks each isn't bad but I thought this might be a nice little cut and weld project. I'm still learning and need some experience right? Lol

So I went to the old donor frame and using a front mount as a template... started cutting. Used a cut off wheel. Measuring, marking, cutting took an hour or so.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Pics

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Good welding project.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Spent an hour after work on my new shock mounts. I tried to get inside too on one but then realized it'll be hard to grind and make it look pretty. Good thing they won't be seen.

One I got cleaned up some and the other still needs a little work. My buddy will look them over before I paint them.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

nice mount rebuild! if you dont got it, make it!