Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I've found my time is best used early in the morning when it's only 75 degrees out. This heat is no fun...Work in it all day welding then come home and work when it's 115 in the shop! No thanks.
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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

It has been too hot !! That's my excuse.. and I am waiting on parts...

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It was only 84 here today with low humidity, and a slight breeze. Couldn't ask for any better weather. :metal::metal::metal:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

How does that swamp cooler work with bare metal present?

:agree:

:thumbs:

Are you bragging? :haha:

Thought I would go out to the shop for a little bit to see where I ended. My cab to bed alignment is really confusing me. It's the same cab, bed and frame. The only thing that is different is new cab mounts. They also look to be installed correctly. I looked at a pic before teardown and it looked like it lined up a lot better. Nothing is tight right now, but everything is sitting on the frame. Thinking of shimming up the back of the cab. Both sides are the same.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1183694167

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Hey Alan we could swap beds because mine is on the lower side for some reason.
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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Maybe the difference in the height of the bed is the bed wood?

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

It works great because the shop is fully insulated. An extra $2,200.00, but really worth it. And yes I'm bragging :haha:
I have the same problem you have with lining up, but I yet to make cab and bed mounts.
http://belair.smugmug.com/Other/1965...83_6vBVL-L.jpg :haha::haha:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Your cab/bed alignment looks off by a good 1/2" or more. Are you sure that the bed cross members are in the right locations? If you shim the cab won't that effect the core support/fender alignment too? I'm just guessing on the bed, from the pictures and what you did, I would think it should be off the other direction if any at all.

I know you will figure it out!
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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Just a question Is the back of the bed sitting right it kinda looks like bed to cab gap is angled?

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Kinda what I was thinking too.;)

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:thumbs:

Thanks for the suggestion Bill. The wood spacers I have in there right now are 3/4" oak hardwood floor. That's the same thickness of the replacememnt floor, right?. ;)

:haha: At your alignment problems.

They offered to get us a swamp cooler at work, but thought it wouldn't be a good idea around bare metal and filler.

Thanks Karl, you are right about affecting other things. I took some pics posted below of all the mounting areas. I'm sure it's something simple that I over looked, I hope.

I agree with you. It looks like the bed is down in the rear or up in the front.

:agree:

Here are some pics of all the bed and cab mounts. I got the cab bushings from a guy on ebay that said he didn't like them. The other thing I thought about is the cab bolts are not tight. Do y'all think the bushings will compress that much? They are poly bushings and I don't think they will. One the bed I installed the 1/4" rubber blocks that are repops form some supplier.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...edium/1282.JPG

The two top cab bushings look differrent. I thought they should be the same. I just noticed that while reviewing the pics. I don't know if there is a thickness difference yet.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...dium/13110.JPG

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...edium/1343.JPG

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...edium/1328.JPG

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...edium/1302.JPG

Radiator support

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...edium/1391.JPG

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...dium/14110.JPG

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Swamp coolers do not work in humidity. Air conditioning dries the air, swamp coolers add moister to the air. They work great in a dry climate like here in the high desert.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Alan, Is that a spacer i see between the cross sill and the frame pedestals? If so, that is your problem. Take it out, the cross sills sit down flat on the pedestals.

http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/f...thvin/1328.jpg

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

It's a 1/4" rubber shim. I put it in there because they are sold to replace the old ones. I talked to 198Plus and he said he runs a thin piece of rubber. It will definately help by it not being there. The next time I go out to the shop I will remove them.

Here are the rubber blocks that I am referring to. By the discription it says "bed wood mounting pads." Does that mean they go between the wood and the crossmembers? That still doesn't make sense.

Pic Courtesy of truckandcarshop

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That is interesting Alan. I have never seen any such thing on any of these trucks originally. I would leave them out and see how the bed sits. A 1/4 inch there might make a big difference on the exterior body lines. My 61, 64, & 66 beds did not have these when i torn it down from their original condition. If i used anything at all i would not use anything thicker than a bicycle tube. There is really no need for it anyway. Once the bed is pulled down tight it should not be moving on the pedestal. Let me know if taking them out helps.

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When I disassembled my bed there were no pads present and I was wondering why Mar-K had included them. Now I know I'm not the only one that didn't have the rubber spacers between the cross sills....Vernski:metal:

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Thanks for the help and info. I removed the rubber pads tonight pics below. I still don't know where they are supposed to go.

Thanks Vern, just for clarification Mar-k didn't include them in my order. I got them some where else.

Removed the rubber pads. It is better, but not there yet. the passenger side is actually really close to where it needs to be. I looked at the passenger side rear cab mount and it has an extra washer just under the cab. There is one that stayed on the cab during the repair process. It looks like a permenant piece. Could it have been added at the factory? More than likely it was added during it's life. The driver side is still 3/8" off. I'm going to install a spacer under the drivers side rear cab mount to see if it will match the other side.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Alan,

I know what is part of the problem!!!

One of your floor supports is wrong size in height. The middle floor brace should be a thin floor brace your pics appear to have a standard height one in there which would throw it off about that 1/2 inch or more

per mar-k site the middle one is the short one
you should have three
one short in height and 2 taller ones

I also remember when I disassembled mine it had the short floor brace in the middle in front of the wheel tubs

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Alan here's a couple pics of the wheels......Their dirty.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...1/DSCN0170.jpg

Here's a couple more......

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...1/DSC_0305.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...1/DSCN0166.jpg

Here's a clearance shot.......

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...1/DSCN0171.jpg

They really need a good home :lol:

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Kevin, there are actually 3 tall and one short. To the best of my knowledge they are where they need to be. The main bed bolts go thru them and into the frame. Here is a pic from my archive. The bed is standing on it's front.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1186628490

Thanks for the pics Ronnie, your truck is not dropped. Mine is down in the rear 4". I have clearanced my rear bedsides to accomendate the truck rallys on a 72 rearend. The tires on the truck rallys are also 255/70. Do you have a package deal price for a broke fellar? ;)

Worked on lining up the bed and cab. I ended up installing 2 of the old cab mount washers under the left rear cab support. Then I installed 2 of the rubber cushions under the right rear of the bed and one on the left rear bed sill. That also leveled my bed out with the cab looking at it from the rear. I will install the rear bumper and check the alignment with the bed.

In hindsight I should have done more checking of body lines and shim placement (if they exist) during teardown. Also check the frame. The lessons we learn.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

looking good.you will be driving it before long.

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Yep you are right! Sorry my mistake! I missed the note on the Mar K site too, I guess one of mine was just missing then, one more thing to add to the list of what i need

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

alan have any updates?? it's been a week, lol!! i know i know this heat sucks!!

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Got a little something to show. ;) Got my old rear bumper installed to check alignment. Alos some pics of my new work area at my day job. More room and less interuptions. There is one other bodyman in here with me.

Ronnie, I also included a pic of the clearance between my bed and tire. You can also see your bumper on the metal shelf at my work.

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Got my shirts made.

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Shirts look good Alan ... what is the plan for tire clearance???

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shirts really look good,trucks coming along nicely too.

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Tire and fender clearance was a concern of mine when I changed axles.
I wanted to stay with my 6 lug rims and had to look quite a while to find a '69 6-stud axle in a 3.07 ratio. The later axles are wider by about 1.5"

Things are coming together nicely
So any long range rough estimate of the first drive?? I bet you are ready.....:chevy:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I'm liking the shirts, why ya blocking out the number.......If you don't want to show your number just put mine on there :lol:

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Nice work area !!!!

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Looking very nice. So how did you end up getting the bed lined up right?
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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Not sure if your still dealing with the bed, but here is a shot of my 65, right after i pulled it, did not have any type of bushings in it

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

:thumbs:

i have a 72 axle in it and you are right the axle is 3/4" wider on each side which is creating my clearance issue.

At the rate I'm going it will be another 4 years before it is on the road. J/K I don't think I will make any shows this year with it.

As far as my number, once it is posted on the internet I can never take it off. I know this forum is full of good people, but I don't need a higher pnone bill. ;)

Lots of room for sure. Too bad the paint shop is in another building.

Shimmed up the right rear of the bed and left rear of the cab.

Thanks for the pic. I'll double check everything. ;)

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Very nice lookin shirts Alan.
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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Hey Alan, my truck had a replaced wood bed when I bought it and it had the rubber pads. You can see in the pic of it turned upside down where they were. You'll see the black area on the crossbars, and one of the pads is still on in the upper left of the pic.
http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/s...5/100_2109.jpg

Sorry I dont have a pic with it mounted, but the bed gap was pretty darn close. I'll see if I can find a pic.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Hey Alan, I got a question for you. I see that you used a 72 rearend in your truck, so I was wondering what you are doing for your emergency brake set up? Can I use the e brake cables out of the old 65 rearend and hook it up or is the 72 way different? Right now I dont have any 72 cable hardware. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks

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I'm using a 73 rear end, and using a foot e-brake & cables from the same year.:metal:

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Thanks Greg

Thanks for the pic. That helps explain the pads. Kind od. ;)

Yes, that's what I did. I have to figure out where at all ties together at the trans xmember. I've got a CPP tranny xmember. After running into this problem others have suggested going with the 66 ebrake cable setup. If your running a stock trans xmember then you can use the 65 ebrake cables in the rear axle.

Why didn't I think of that. :dohh:

Dropped my fuel tank, radiator and fan shroud off at the powdercoater. Should be back by this weekend. I also ordered the sending unit and tail light bezels.

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Got my parts back from the PC. It beats trying to paint aluminum. The fins of the radiator were not done for cooling reasons. He said if it had lead or solder in the radiator he couldn't do it due to the baking temp of 400*.