Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I meant to ask about the Jeep fan last night when I was over there. How did you mount it, because I don't see the bolts that everybody else uses to hold the top arms to the inside of the shroud? Also, I thought the Jeep fans were a single speed fan?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Check out this thread for more info on the Jeep fan: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=254617
Mounted per the above thread, I have cut the lower slot, but haven’t poked the top holes yet. There’s two versions of that same fan, I grabbed the Spectra CF13009 with 3-wire/2-speed

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Getting everything prepped for the TKO, which should be here Monday. Chatting with smbrouss70 over beers last night, he talked about how much trouble he had getting his transmission to engage the pilot hole due to the sloppy tolerances of the plastic alignment tool.

In a rare genius moment, I decided to wrap the tool in foil tape to take up some of the slack. 2 layers worked perfectly! The new 26-spline clutch is torqued in place and hopefully allows the trans to slide in with ease.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Also spent a little time rebuilding my hydro throwout, as I got a little excited and accidentally forcibly disassembled it during removal of the Muncie. It got a new piston, seals, scrapers, and c-clip. Good to go.

Driveshaft also now has a new Spicer 1310-1330 conversion u-joint, ready to accept the 31-spline slip yoke for the Tremec. Fingers crossed I won’t have to shorten the shaft (it will be close).

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

After a few days spent having to do FedEx’s job for them, things just got interesting:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Boom.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You're going to love it!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I have a box like that in my garage! But I’m not nearly as far along as you. I’m going to be mocking everything up for fitment this spring.

Are you going to move the shifter to the mid position or just flip it around where it is now?

Make sure it shifts thru the gears, sometimes the shippers set the trans box on end and it puts the shift rods out of alignment. It will be in 2 gears at once. Mine was bound up, but it was easy to fix. There’s a YouTube video out there somewhere about it.

What clutch and throw out bearing are you using? Those are the last things I need. I’m using Capt Fab’s master setup, the Silver Sport bell, and I already have a flywheel.

Cool build, I’ve been following it for a while now.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

My feelings exactly
I sure hope so!
Thanks for the kind words!

I’m yet undecided on shifter location. I think rear-flipped will be fine, will see once I get it stabbed.

Clutch is an 11” big-block style, RAM 78125HD hydraulic throwout. Setup easy and worked great with the Muncie, should be similar with the TKO.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

OH damn! I want one of those for my GTO!!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I feel the same way! I want one for my Falcon

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Had to check out your builds, nice cars both!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the info, Gringo!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Anytime I need inspiration for the Burb, it always brings me back to your thread. I appreciate your willingness to share your findings and expertise with all of us. I also decided to go the Terminator X route and can't wait to start on that part of the project! Keep up the good work!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

No worries, this is why we’re here :chevy:
Thanks man, love that ‘burb. You’re gonna love termi-x, plug and play, fires right up, and gets better every time I drive it

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well, the TKO is “in”. The easy, heavy-lifting piece is done, but it still needs a new mount spacer ( have a 3/4” piece of scrap wood in there for the moment), driveshaft shortened, clutch bled, floor clearanced, fluid filled, etc, etc.

I made these handy alignment dowels out of a pair of grade ‘cheap silver cad’ bolts. Simply lopped the heads off, chamfered the end, and cut a screwdriver slit for ease of removal. Worked like a charm!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Due to the dropmember moving the engine up, the transmission is very high in the tunnel, but should still just fit under the high hump. Remains to be seen, still need to fill the Muncie shifter hole and cut a new one.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

This also places the shifter ball in a very high position. Currently, I’m using a 16” long lever, which exacerbates the issue and contributes to a very long shift throw. I’ll look into using a shorter lever around 10-12”, and possibly a short-shifter base if needed.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

My shifter base boot pokes through the hump slightly. Diff motor mounted 5/8” higher than stock and @ 3* pitch. I remember the level 3 DM’s have the pitch at 5* or so,, didnt catch what series you have. Watch that 3rd gear...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the info. I figure it will stick through a bit, worse if I decide to do a short throw (taller base). I set the angles up at 3.5, which is certainly a contributing factor to how high it sits. I also raised the engine ~3/4” to help tuck the long tubes up inside the framerails. 3rd is a knuckle-buster for sure, I’m looking at different stick options...

This is the snowball I was trying so hard to avoid, but it sure is fun figuring out the puzzle :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Interested to see if the clearance will be enough all the way around in the high hump like you said. I guess it won't move around too much but.....

Looks killer man.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Once you get the stick position worked out,, look up the palming procedure for high rpm quick 3rd gear shifts for these units. Makes all the diff.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, man. I tossed the cover on and there appears to be a quarter inch or so all around. The trans is hitting the floorpan behind the hump, though, where the shift rail housing is tall above the output shaft. Looks like a little more cutting is in my future...
Thanks, I’ve done some reading and watched the YouTube video. Looks like the idea is to just push up and let the centering springs do the work

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thats it. These boxes are really notchy. Mines loosening up but not what i was expecting.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks good, but wow it sits way higher than mine does. Like Inverter said, it is quite notchy at first, but after about 2,000 miles on mine it seems to have worn in enough to make it feel much better.