Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

looks good, is that a boyds tank? you should be driving it soon at the rate your going.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks and yes it is a Boyd tank.

Doing a little side job. So no work on the 65 right now. I did discover that I don't have the connector that plugs into the back of the tail light housing from the harness. I thought it was hard wired..........I was wrong. I thought about hard wiring it, but not sure yet. Note to self, don't throw anything away until the system is all finished up. :dohh: I don't have a pic of it, but if you know what I'm talking about where can I get them. I checked LMC, but they don't list them. I will get a pic if needed.

This side job needs a rear end the owner says. It's a 97 K10 with 355K on it. Other than jacking it up and spinning the tires is there a code? If so where would it be? Also what year range does this rearend fit? I will be looking for a used one.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

alan not to sure if this is what you are looking for but i think so!! on ebay look up: 62 63 64 65 66 rear body light harness! the seller is: (westgaclassics) ebat stores name is: west georgia classics) might be able to save on shipping seening that your n the same state!! i have a lot of things i look up saved and this is one of them!!

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Here is one supplier but I have also seen them on other sites

http://www.classicparts.com/1962-66-...ctinfo/52-662/

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The axle code is located on the glove box door. As soon as the Chevy dealership next door opens up I will let you know which code to look for.

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Thanks Kevin!!

Thanks Greg. I posted the question here And Chevytech posted the RPO codes.

GU2 = 2.73
GU4 = 3.08
GU5 = 3.23
GU6 = 3.42
GT4 = 3.73
GT5 = 4.10


G80 = Eaton Gov-Loc limited slip unit

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

About to get the side job finished up.

Yesterday, I tried to get something done. After figuring out the univeral fuel sender and retrieving the small vacumn cleaner nozzle that got stuck in the tank baffle. I discovered that the universal sender bolt pattern doesn't line up with Boyd's flange. That is where it is at now. I think I can oversize the holes a little and get enough adjustment to get the bolts in. Also the bolts that came with the sender is a different thread pitch than what is in the tank. I have to pick up some #10 32 bolts.

The float has to go to the front, because it hits the baffle if it points to the side.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

It's a little over kill and not required. It's been nearly 20 years since I did some safety wire. I had the stuff to do it with so why not. Yeah, I know no one will ever see it except for this pic. ;)

It's not my best, but not to bad.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Now your just showing off. :haha:

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way to much free time:lol:

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You got that much cam to shake apart your take float thingie? ;)

Now I feel like I am in one of those old Marine C123 death traps. :rolleyes:

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Nice job Alan,
Brings back memories of working on the tail rotors on Blackhawks.

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Nahh

I wish, ;)

Yeeeeeeeeeah, that's the reason.

I remember crawling into the tail section of the F-4 and getting hung on every piece of safety wire. Oh the memories. ;)

Thanks David, ;)

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Alan; you did make some A pillar gutters did you not. I can remember you doing some. did you use them as 198 said that you didn't. easier to ask then go back through he thread
ron

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you didn't even give me chance to respond. if you do use the oxalic acid, neutralize it with acetic acid(vinegar) and the rinse with clear water; preferably distilled as a lot of water has iron in it and can stain it with small spots esp oaks
ron

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

alan any updates?? i havent done anything but order some more parts! i win on ebay some straight painted front and rear bumpers with all brackets and the splash guards for $185, i dont think that was bad! im making my gas filler plate today too, its like yours but a lil higher up on the side and upside down with a flash mount cap if that makes sense to you!! ill get some pictures later or tomorrow when i'm done making it! anyways looking good, i know you should be just about done by now!!

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

:haha: sorry. I was able to sand out the stains with 180.

I wish I could hae put mine up higher, but the side trim was in the way.

I got the bed wood sanded down today. I also included pic of the fuel filler hose and vent. I need one more plug for the tank and I can cross the fuel system off the list. The filler hose looks like it is slanted awya from the tank, but it's an opticall illusion. It is actually level. I wish it was slanted to the tank. ;)

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Sweet!!! :metal:

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Allan, I'm not sure if that's a good idea having the vent hose going below like that. When full it might syphon the gas out. I would install it above the filler hose. Just a thought. What do ya think?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1314316431

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I thought about that, but the vent runs all the way up to the filler neck under the cap. I'm thinking that should work. Am I wrong?
Posted via Mobile Device

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I didn't know it went up the tube. It should be OK then. Just looking out for ya. ;)

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Thanks again Dennis, you can't see everything in pics. ;)

Started urethaning the bed wood today. Also created "Alan's Classic" group on facebook for those that don't know yet. ;)

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Good idea Alan, thanks for doing that. :metal:

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I like the idea. Seems more personal.

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Is the urethane clear specifically for wood? Does it soak in or lay on top so you can you cut and buff? I think I've read where someone painted and cleared the wood and then cut and buffed it. Or maybe I made it up, I'm not sure.:crazy:

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I would think the more coats the better so you won't have the cut and buff. But I'm just guessing. :uhmk:

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A lot of guessin and makin up stuff going on.;)

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Alan I'm ready to come pic my wood back up from ya............;):lol::metal::smoke::uhmk::chevy::mm::waah::devil::sumo::metal::lol:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Hey Alan I was just catching up on your build thread looking good as usual.
BTW I noticed that you have worked on F-4s I was in the last Phantom squadron in the Marine Corps (VMFP-3) was there to launch out the very last one bound for China Lake.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I rode in a F4 from Korea. The Navy came tried (came close but no cigar) to make the Air Force guy in the back seat toss all his kinshi.

Truck is looking good Alan.

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It is a Minwax product for outdoor use. The first coat soaked in quite a bit. I went ahead and did back-to-back coats for a total of three coats on the first round. I also beveled every sharp edge a little so i wouldn't have a sharp edge for the urethane to start pealing.

I believe I read that as well. A guy at work tried automotive clear and water wicked up on the ends and stained the wood. I wasn't there during the complete process. He also stated the air in the wood created air bubbles the first time he put it on. I decided to use a product for wood, because I don't want to redo it anytime soon.

After the first 3 coats and 2 more today after sanding with 180 to level it out, i have already used a quart and that is just on the top.

What's wrong with that. :haha:

Not yet it ain't ready yet. ;)

That's awesome, working on those things were something else. I was assigned to AR Aero Repair. We did flight control riging, landing gear, canopy rigging, and throttle cables.

Thanks Bill. I road in a F4 over Korea. that was on of the most memorable times in my life.

Like I mentioned before I sanded the top sides and put on 2 more coats witha brush and that is the end of one quart. Once I get it slick, I will spray the last coat I think.

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Thanks, Alan. It looks great.

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Finally subscribed. I haven't read the whole thread...just bits and pieces over time. I will go back and read it all when i get time.... Nice work Alan!!

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:thumbs:

Thanks and thanks for subscribing!!

On to something different, I'm tired of playing with my wood. ;)

I am using a measuring sheet that I linked a while back that collects data for a drive shaft. Drive line Guru's make sure I'm doing this right.

I measured it with it on the ground. I used a framing square on both the trans and rearend. The square was up against the tail housing and the other square was against the leading edge of the yoke. I then marked the floor at both locations with tape and a pen mark and measured. I came up with 61", remember my engine is in the front holes. I raised it up and measured again for curiousity and it was 62"

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You know the best way is to ask the guy that's building the drive shaft. Measure exactly the way he says to do it. If you measure it and it comes out wrong, he can't say I made it to YOUR spects. Just a tip. I had many made, and that's how I do it. I don't like to pay twice. ;)

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

That's awesome, working on those things were something else. I was assigned to AR Aero Repair. We did flight control riging, landing gear, canopy rigging, and throttle cables.

Thanks Bill. I road in a F4 over Korea. that was on of the most memorable times in my life.

Right on I was a hydraulics technician. VMFP-3 was a reconnaissance squadron with 36 aircraft that’s a lot of Phantoms to maintain, a normal squadron has 12 aircraft. There is non other like the F-4 I love that plane in fact here on my desk sits a complete warning light panel from the cockpit of one of our birds along with multiple models adorned in the many paint schemes P-3 had over the years.:uhmk:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I did not know that was possible...:lol:
Can't believe that Dennis did not comment on that one...


Anyway, The way you measured it, the driveshaft would have to be level from the trans to the rearend yoke. If it runs uphill or downhill, then it would be longer. The best way I know is how Dennis described. I would also check with it on the ground, measure from your tail housing directly to the flat of the yoke with a tape measure. Tell the shop that you measured from the housing to the yoke flange. The yoke flange is typically the center of the U-joint.

Looking good anyway...