Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks Dennis, I meant to call them (drive line people) today. But my bed wood drove me crazy today. I usally do a good job with spraying urethane. I had lots of issues today. I was in hopes of bringing the wood home today.

It's one of my favorites..............to look at. ;) They are cool.

Dennis must have just overlooked that comment. I figured he would be the first to pounce. ;)

Thanks for the correction, and I agree with you. An angle will increase lenght. i should know that since I measure frames and unibodies. :dohh:

As mentioned before i had a hell of a time today with the wood. I have used orbital sanders before on wood with any problems. The can said use 220 and I did so after first trying to cut it with 320. After I sprayed the first coat and let it flash off I could see the sanding marks plus it was dieing back some. I thought another coat would fix it. So another trip to the store for a 3rd can. After it tacked most boards were looking better while others didn't. Fish eyes were on the boards that were looking better plus tons of dust. I sprayed in the shop with the doors closed. So I went with another coat and just put them out in the sun at this point knowing i will be sanding them back down. Out in the sun they looking great. After a couple hours I brought them back in and the flourescent lights just show everything. My goal is for them to be slick and shinny. I hope to get there soon. Here is a pick of them outside. I tried to get the defects to show up, but they didn't.

I also test fitted the LED tail lights with new bezels. They are not wired yet.

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Looking good Alan..........

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Dennis must have just overlooked that comment. I figured he would be the first to pounce. ;)


I saw the comment, sometimes I just keep my mouth shut. And stay out of trouble. :haha::haha::haha: I do like you wood though. :lol::metal:

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:thumbs:

Now it's personal. :haha: BTW Thanks!! ;)

I just got off the phone with Ron "padresag" he gave me some great tips on some of the troubles I am having with the urethane. I forgot to mention I had a bubble form after sitting it in the sun. That's a big no-no. It needs to cure out inside over time.

I also blasted some parts today and blew holes right thru my tag light bracket. I could repair, but will opt for a new one.

I also picked up some peel and seal for the sound deadener on the floor. It's not as thick as I thought it would be. It might be 1/8" thick.

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looking good Alan...that bed wood is gonna be really nice....did you ever decide on doing anything else with the tailgate, or are you just gonna leave it painted solid?

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Thanks and I will leave the TG plain and simple. ;) The only accents to the outside will be the custom trim. I have a thing against emblems and pin stripes. I like them on others, but i like a simple look. ;)

I called the drive line shop (Ron's driveline in Gainesville) Steve was super nice and helpfull. He lives close to my work and will bring home a yoke and U joint tonight and I will pick it up in the AM. He told me to slide the yoke in til it bottoms and back it out 3/4" and measure center of cap to center of cap.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I measured the driveshaft like the shop told me and it came to 59" to the CL of the caps.

Also applied the peel and seal. Boy, that stuff is sticky. Better make sure it doesn't conatct something you don't wantit to, because it's not coming back up in one piece. I haven't done around the passenger side firewall yet. I have to see where my AC and heater lines will be.

Also got the majority of the carpet done. Some might say it is too soon and it might be. It will be more comfortable to lay on when I'm under the dash.

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What are you going to use on the firewall under the dash?

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Quick question, I'm starting to run wire and I'm at the brake light switch. I used a ohm meter to check the switch. It's got constant continuity unless it is depressed. That is opposite of what I think it should be. I think it should get continuity when depressed so it energizes the brake light. Am I smoking crack?

EDIT: I think I'm wrong :dohh: I was thinking wrong as usual. ;)

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When it's compressed the switch is off if it's on the bench. Or are you checking it in the truck by depressing the brake pedal?
I didn't see that last sentence. DOHH also. :haha:

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Thanks for the reply anyway. ;)

As mentioned before the wiring has begun. At first it was a little overwhelming with a hand full of wires. Once you break it down to one wire at a time it's not too bad.............yet. Got the steering column done in the cab and I'm almost done with the ignition in the cab. Loosely running things as I go and will secure everything last.

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I think just a repro firewall pad.... they are perforated for the different acc. but nothing is punched out.

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That's what I used on the 57 Sedan Delivery I'm working on.
http://belair.smugmug.com/Other/Kust...P1040731-L.jpg

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Wiring is the best part!! the brake switch is a normally closed switch and will have continuity through the contacts.

A switch or relay is referred to as having contacts normally open or normally closed. This is the contact position of the switch or relay ,UN-installed and no interference with the operating mechanism, in the at rest position .

Some switch's and relays can also be a double pole or triple pole with one set being open and one set being closed.

When installed the brake pedal arm holds the contacts open, until you press on the brake allowing the contacts to close and the light to come on.

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Of course an electrician would make a comment like this!....Oh wait, an electrical inspector now!

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Looking good Alan and I'm with you, Carpet is much more cozy to lay on... And I hate wiring!
Posted via Mobile Device

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134 pages wow!
What a great build thread Alan. Very humble for such a talented guy!

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I'm glad when I run across these kind of repairs.
It restores hope.

This is where I am.
I now have two hoods.
I just picked up a hood nice on the big open surface across the top, but needs some help around the inner supports.
My hood is pretty banged up all across the top but is rust free.

So between your post and Bugeye's thread, I think I can make one really nice hood.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=415609

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That's definately a thought. I might have the upholstery shop try something. When I get it all done.

Thanks for the explanation. ;)

:haha:

The carpet does help. I wish i knew more about wiring. It's kind of like wanting to learn another language. Maybe I'll get around to it someday. Wait that someday is here as far as wiring. ;)

Thanks and I can't believe it has taken me this long to get it done. Heck, it's not done yet.

Good luck, I will check out the link.

I'm back after being without power for 26 hours due to a EF1 tornado that was spawned from tropical storm Lee. It had a 24 mile track and passed within a mile from the house. We didn't have any damage at the house, but 400 other homes had damage or were destroyed. Things are getting back to normal.

I did get 2 light coats sprayed yesterday. It was looking very nice until it started drying. it sunk in some, but still looks 100% better than before. I have to get another quart and lightly sand and spray again.

I also pick up my drive shaft tomorrow.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Glad you are okay!!!!!
Alan you are an inspiration for all of us to continue on our projects.
I wish mine was finished but I realize that we are having too much fun driving it now to pull it off the road ...

Remember---- no hurricanes in Montana!!!!!

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Yeah, glad your OK. Close call huh?

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Thanks Bubba, I wish I was was driving mine now. ;) No hurricanes, but they have had frost already in northern MT. It was 58 this morning here and I put on a long sleeve shirt.

Too close for me.

The first pic shows a close call. I installed the wiper motor and realized it will be close to the radio, thinking the radio might not fit. It does clear, not by much.

Drive shaft is in for a test fit. I will be removing it to paint it later.

Also installed the 175 amp maxi fuse. This should be a safe place and out of the way. The wiring is not secured yet. Once I get everything inplace and working. I'll try to clean it up some. It won't be as nice as I would like it, but I'll do my best. ;)

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The truck is coming along great, keep it up, I love the routing of the wiring so far, nice and clean!

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its like you have said progress is progress right!!

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:thumbs: That's it in a nut shell.

I cracked open another bag of wires tonight (late) and studied the diagrams for a few minutes. Bubba or any other elctrical guru stayed tuned. I will study them tomorrow and see if I can figure it out. No matter if I figure it or not I will post pics of the schematic and my crazy idea of how I think i should do it. Then get graded. :sexy: My problem area is the fan relay and all related parts.

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tuned in!!! I wish I was closer .... I'd come over and help!!!:chevy:

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Yeah me too, between all of us, we can really f*ck it up. :haha: :haha:

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I can't scratch the paint from here!!!!:haha::haha:

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That's true. :haha::uhmk:

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That would be great, but would anything get done or would we just talk about doing something. :haha:

So far all I have scratched is the frame.

Not much shop time today, but I'm studing the schematics and planning while watching the race. 13 cautions and just half way thru.

Questions: Is there any reason why I can't keep the relay inside the cab? I know the reason for a relay is the reduce the bigger wires from being in the cab. So that means I need to keep it close to the battery. I just don't want a lot of wires in the engine bay.

Info: I am running a single fan with two terminals.

Fuse panel
Spot #1 to one side of the temp sensor included in the relay package. Then the other wire from the sensor to the yellow wire of the relay.

Spot #2 unsure what to connect there if anything. The only thing I can think of is the ground wire from the fan or the ground from the relay.

Relay
Red wire- to the battery.

Black wire-to chassis ground close to the battery

Green wire- to the AC controller, which will be discussed in a later post

Orange wire- power to the fan with the fan grounded to the chassis.

Let me know if I'm getting close to having it right. I don't want to wire up something I'm not sure of and have to redo it.

Shannon and I went junkin' today and I picked up the connectors for brake lights.

Ok my brain is smoking. ;)

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Side question,
You posted this in another thread.
Do you remember what brand support brace you used here?:

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I got them from Goodmark.


Has any body looked at my wiring question 2 post above?

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I would mount the fan relay close to the fan. Not in the cab. Run a temp switch to turn on the fan, or a switch where ever you want.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

:agree: One of the main ideas/reasons for using a relay is so that you don't have to run the higher amped or volatge wire long distances, especially within ther cab. you can get by with lower rated switches and less chance for shorts or at least more dangerous short.

There's my $.02

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks guys, I'm going to repost my question for clarity. ;)

I'm studing the schematics and planning.

Questions: Is there any reason why I can't keep the relay inside the cab? I know the reason for a relay is the reduce the bigger wires from being in the cab. So that means I need to keep it close to the battery. I just don't want a lot of wires in the engine bay.

Info: I am running a single fan with two terminals.

My plan

Fuse panel
Spot #1 to one side of the temp sensor included in the relay package. Then the other wire from the sensor to the yellow wire of the relay.

Spot #2 unsure what to connect there if anything. The only thing I can think of is the ground wire from the fan or the ground from the relay.

Relay
Red wire- to the battery.

Black wire-to chassis ground close to the battery

Green wire- to the AC controller, which will be discussed in a later post

Orange wire- power to the fan with the fan grounded to the chassis.

Let me know if I'm getting close to having it right. I don't want to wire up something I'm not sure of and have to redo it.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1315708617

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1315708617

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1315708617

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Alan , Just got home, This working for a living screws up my free time :chevy:
1) the relay is usually located close to the power source and the load as Dennis mentioned. The relay could be hidden be behind the grille off to a side out of view if you wanted.
Keeping the relay close to the load keeps the voltage drop to a minimum with the heavier wires doing the work and then the smaller gauge coil wires running back to the cab to turn things on and off.
2) I think you have the right idea with the plan , I am not sure what you mean by spot 1 and spot 2, Would that be the terminal location from the terminal block(panel connection block)?? I cannot quite make out the terminal numbers on page 1
But with a single fan you would only need the one output from the N.O. relay contacts to the fan motor.

3) use a good grounding method, I like to extend all the ground wires to a common area and ground them together and then to the frame or back to the battery or block.

I have found on old cars and especially trailer lights, most electrical problems are really grounding problems,

Now, looking into the future,, Are you planning to run the high and low beam relays for your headlights??? maybe they all can be hid in a shiny junction box or concealed in the same location behind the grille or headlight bucket area???,

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Not to confuse the situation, but I use relays to ground also. I did that with air bag compressors, and worked great. No come backs or melted wires.

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