Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Really like the truck Chris. U went thru several changes with the truck along the way. Thanks 4 a few ideas I have for mine. My question to u is the holley injection u have. Knowing u are more than stock, do u think /feel the single plane design is giving something up to the ls truck/car intakes down low? There isnt alot out there that i can find on this. The few articles I have read have the motor in more race than street trim. Just wanted ur thoughts.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Working on a couple things here and there, this afternoon I finally got an AC compressor mounted. There are lots of types of mounts available for the LS these days, but I wanted a low mount, and that leaves only a few options. I settled on the Dirty Dingo bracket setup, as it provides the narrowest measurement and most clearance to the framerail.

Unfortunately, as with most things I try to “bolt on” it needed modification, as the tensioner was trying to occupy the same space as the steering rack hard lines. I thought about a few different ways of fixing the issue, including re-routing the line, moving the rack, or trying a different bracket, but settled on just moving the tensioner over about 3/4”. I ended up building a doubler bracket out of 1/4” aluminum plate, as there wasn’t enough meat on the bracket to drill the new holes as delivered.

All seems to be well with (minor) clearance all around, just need to find the correct length belt. 5 pound sack...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It’s really packed in there, but it all fits, and is hidden away nicely :cool:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Appreciate the compliments, they’re never really done...

The short runner/single plane intake is almost certainly losing a few hp/lbs-ft low in the rev range, and the cam exacerbates the issue, but I’m willing to make that sacrifice for the look/sound I’m after. Really all comes down to what your priorities are. If it becomes an issue, there’s always forced induction, more cubic inches, or deeper rear gears to help make up for it :burnout:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The truck looks great, Chris....amazing transformation....its come a long way!:cool:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice fix. Didn't your bracket come with a belt? Mine did. I can look at the part number later if you need it. Let me know.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks man! Still lots more to go...
No belt with mine, but I bought bracket only, not the kit. From reading, it sounds like the DD compressor is a knockoff and I found a good deal on a new Sanden. I did finally get a belt on it after measuring twice and only two trips to the LAPS :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It was a look a like as of a couple years ago anyhow. I had one and sent it back because of it.

Your engine turned out awesome. :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Look at you and your fancy cool air maker thingy.... :ito:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Just checking in...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks man, pretty happy with how it’s turning out. Just a few minor tweaks and I’ll consider it “done”.
Haha, way too much head-scratching spent getting the silly thing in there...
I’m still chipping away. Here it is sitting in the rear bumpstops to check clearance for the driveshaft, wheel tubs, and over-the-axle exhaust. Kinda makes me want to “air-out” the front just to see what it would look like:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You know you can swap out those pesky coil-overs for Shockwaves, right? ;) :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

No bags right now, this was supposed to be a simple suspension upgrade :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Simple...... Pfff.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Going from a 7.5” ride height to 4 will close some gaps.
Will you have to run your tunnel all the way to the hump ?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It was supposed to just be a simple coilover upgrade with mild dropmember and a NoLimit rear kit, until Nathan Porter got in my ear. He was right, I would have never been happy with the mild setup. Add the LS swap into the mix and it’s gotten out of control. Glad I went this way, but the snowball is in full effect...
Definitely have lots of things competing for the same space when you get this low. The driveshaft tunnel runs from the rib behind the high hump to the rear cab wall. The hump itself will also need clearancing for the quite large TKO to sit at the correct driveline angle.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and here it is all complete. Fully seam welded, etch primed, seam sealed, and undercoated. I used the factory-style brush technique on the sealer, though if I had it to do again, I’d probably just use my finger to smooth it. Thankfully it will be buried under insulation, carpet, and a seat :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nicely done. Even on the 64-66's the floor needs clearance on a 1pc. driveshaft. I also had to make the trans-hump a 1pc deal vs. the 64-66 2pc set-up.
Similar but different. I used flat sheet to form my parts since it was easier to source locally....

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Scoti. Yours looks very-well executed. I started with a pre-fab tunnel, but only ended up using the very top couple inches of it. A 2 piece shaft might have been easier than all of this. Just glad to be done with it, honestly, so now I can move on to head-scratching the high-hump panel.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Agreed, a 2pc driveline would be 'easier'.

But, after discussion w/Nathan, I prefer the budget/simplicity of the 1pc. as well as the potential additional costs toward minimizing driveline related vibrations (which are a serious Pet Peeve of mine).

Advice I'd give for others reading is to definitely check clearance under your seat if building/tweaking the trans tunnel. Although I planned for it, mine is close.... but clears the frame (Buddy Buckets).

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I could have used that advice! :lol: Looks like I’ll be raising my seat a 1/2” or so to accommodate the tunnel. 10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound sack...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks Awesome.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Could you share which Sanden compressor you used? Never mind I think I found it. Thanks

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks!
SD7B10, model 7176, if you’re still looking

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

With the driveshaft tunnel complete, it was time to move on to the high hump. First order of business: fill the Muncie shifter hole. That was the easy part...