Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
How much clearance are you allowing around the tightest places for your driveshaft? I'm in the middle of this now also and not sure if I should trim my cab floor also. It looks like I've got about 3/4 of an inch after I install my driveshaft.
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Hump is done. Not metal-worked to perfection, but doesn’t need to be. I got her finish welded and knocked down smooth, shot with a coat of self-etch on the top and undercoated the bottom, then bolted her in with a bead of window weld cord to seal. Looks and fits like it belongs and has taken the first layer of sound deadener. :chevy:
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Well done.
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Nice!
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Awesome!
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I moved to the engine bay for a bit while I wait for more sound deadener and new carpet to arrive in the mail. I decided that I wanted to delete the knock sensors and oil filler cap, simply because they were an eyesore to me. I used a smooth valley cover, and drilled a hole for a fixed-orifice PCV, which more closely mimics the late model LS engines from the factory, but kept it hidden behind the intake. Need to paint my air cleaner and put everything back together and I think I may actually be done with this engine (for now), maybe?... |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
You're gonna confuse all sorts of folks when you pop the hood. Just when I'm convinced your LS is the coolest... you make it cooler. :smoke:
What kind of deadener are you ordering and where? I need to get some more too. So far I'm leaning toward Noico 80 mil on Amazon... 36 sq. ft. for 67 bucks |
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I used the Siless 80mil stuff too. I got it off Amazon. Mine looked a bit different than yours in the picture above. Mine had squares embossed on the foil side. I used a Noico metal roller to put mine down. The roller had a grooved pattern that left impressions in the foil to help show where you had rolled over the material.
So far it seems to work well, my son has been driving the truck with it installed, but no carpet and it has made a difference over the stock jute pad and carpet. |
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Lots of time spent doing things which amount to minor progress :waah: The Siless sound deadener arrived and laid out nicely; I covered the floor and rear cab wall and am saving a few sheets to apply inside the doors when I tear them apart for new seals. Still need to hit the whole business with the seam roller to make it permanent. Carpet soon???
Also spent an embarrassing amount of time cutting, bending, drilling, and painting a universal driveshaft safety loop to fit just behind the front u-joint. I don’t ever anticipate being fast enough to need one per NHRA standards, but it makes me feel better with the driveshaft spinning only inches beneath my ass... :burnout: |
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Haha, nicely done! The loop looks top notch.
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Killer job, the smooth valley cover makes a huge difference. Are you going to relocate the knock sensors or delete all together?
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Where did you end up mounting your Term X computer? I don’t remember seeing it anywhere.
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My thought is whatever is easiest.... to access.
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GringoLoco:
Thanks for sharing your build - the information and ideas from you and others really helps. Question: Assuming you're connected to the engine, how far does the Terminator X harness/ECM extend into the cab - or how much length do you have once past the firewall? Thx. |
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