Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

How much clearance are you allowing around the tightest places for your driveshaft? I'm in the middle of this now also and not sure if I should trim my cab floor also. It looks like I've got about 3/4 of an inch after I install my driveshaft.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Bottom the suspension out completely & make sure the d.shaft doesn't contact anything. If it does, trim things back until it doesn't. I usually build things w/a 1/8" thick (yard stick) spacer to pad my clearances.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Scoti, that sounds like solid advice. I was thinking I'd need at least an inch, but I like your plan better.;)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hump is done. Not metal-worked to perfection, but doesn’t need to be. I got her finish welded and knocked down smooth, shot with a coat of self-etch on the top and undercoated the bottom, then bolted her in with a bead of window weld cord to seal. Looks and fits like it belongs and has taken the first layer of sound deadener. :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I buried mine on the bumpstops then allowed minimum 3/8” all around. I like a little bit of wiggle room and am saving space for a possible driveshaft safety loop. I think if you have 3/4” of space, you are way good.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well done.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Awesome!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks dudes!

I moved to the engine bay for a bit while I wait for more sound deadener and new carpet to arrive in the mail. I decided that I wanted to delete the knock sensors and oil filler cap, simply because they were an eyesore to me. I used a smooth valley cover, and drilled a hole for a fixed-orifice PCV, which more closely mimics the late model LS engines from the factory, but kept it hidden behind the intake.

Need to paint my air cleaner and put everything back together and I think I may actually be done with this engine (for now), maybe?...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You're gonna confuse all sorts of folks when you pop the hood. Just when I'm convinced your LS is the coolest... you make it cooler. :smoke:

What kind of deadener are you ordering and where? I need to get some more too. So far I'm leaning toward Noico 80 mil on Amazon... 36 sq. ft. for 67 bucks

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks man :cool: Sound deadener, I was looking at Noico, but I ordered 80 mil “Siless” brand from eBay, 36 sq ft for $49. The cheap stuff all seems to be made in the same place, somewhere in the Ukraine. Reviews on this were just as good as any of them, but at a significant discount (even cheaper than Peel and Seal from Lowes).

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I used the Siless 80mil stuff too. I got it off Amazon. Mine looked a bit different than yours in the picture above. Mine had squares embossed on the foil side. I used a Noico metal roller to put mine down. The roller had a grooved pattern that left impressions in the foil to help show where you had rolled over the material.

So far it seems to work well, my son has been driving the truck with it installed, but no carpet and it has made a difference over the stock jute pad and carpet.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Good to hear it’s decent stuff, looks like a nice install there. What you see in the pictures above is Peel and Seal, which has worked well for me in the past, but I plan on doing most of the cab, so it made more sense (and fewer cents) to order a box of the Siless.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Lots of time spent doing things which amount to minor progress :waah: The Siless sound deadener arrived and laid out nicely; I covered the floor and rear cab wall and am saving a few sheets to apply inside the doors when I tear them apart for new seals. Still need to hit the whole business with the seam roller to make it permanent. Carpet soon???

Also spent an embarrassing amount of time cutting, bending, drilling, and painting a universal driveshaft safety loop to fit just behind the front u-joint. I don’t ever anticipate being fast enough to need one per NHRA standards, but it makes me feel better with the driveshaft spinning only inches beneath my ass... :burnout:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haha, nicely done! The loop looks top notch.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I second this!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks guys! Happy to be done with that and moving on

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Killer job, the smooth valley cover makes a huge difference. Are you going to relocate the knock sensors or delete all together?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Where did you end up mounting your Term X computer? I don’t remember seeing it anywhere.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, I think it looks a LOT better. Knock sensors are deleted for now. The Holley programming has them turned off and it is a bit of a programming puzzle to get them working properly with an aftermarket cam. I’m not against adding them back later, probably to the sides of the block.
It’s just sitting on the passenger floorboard for now, in a snake’s nest of temporary wires. I have yet to decide if it’s going under the seat or in the glovebox. Guess I need to figure that out before I lay carpet...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

My thought is whatever is easiest.... to access.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I should have looked a little closer and I would have noticed your snake nest. I’m getting close on my wiring now and I think I’m shooting for under the seat on the drivers side.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I’ve laid mine in the under-seat area on the passenger side and it seems doable, with relocating a few of the fuse and relay locations. I don’t want to cut any wires if I can avoid it, as it voids the Holley warranty, though I think I should be able to do it with some creative re-looming.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

GringoLoco:
Thanks for sharing your build - the information and ideas from you and others really helps.
Question:
Assuming you're connected to the engine, how far does the Terminator X harness/ECM extend into the cab - or how much length do you have once past the firewall?
Thx.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

No worries, this is why we share :cool: The Termi-X harness extends around 4 feet beyond the firewall into the cab, just about enough to put the ECM under the seat, or to have to coil the harness up to put it in the glove box.