Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Alan

I also have been following your thread for months.. just joined a few days ago.. I don't have the modern truck as you do. I have a 57 stepside short bed.. I've added 396, 700R4, complete wiring kit from EZ Wire( very good kit) VDO Gauges, Power Windows (Specialy windows), Front end with rack and Pinon stering from a 95 Dodge Dakota, Stering Column from a 92 Caprice,. Was painted when I got it, 15 years ago. now has dings and dents.. character I quess... recently did a complete custom interior except the seats. Still need to do the bed.. I have wood that my dad and I cut down on the farm before he passed away, IN 89. I will use this cherry for the bed some time.. LOL Still need to sort out the rear end... I was told it was from a late 70s camaro.. Ii is a 10 bolt 8.5 I think.. never had to cover off to vertify.. gears is pretty low maybe 3:08 or somewhere near that as 70 MPH on the interstate is 1400 RPM.. in overdrive.. >75 overdrive installed by a friend of mine when he went throught the tranny 10 years ago..
Keep up the great post You inspire all you find you..

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Thanks for watching and welcome aboard. Sounds like a nice truck you have there. Send me a link to your build when you get it going. I haven't been surfing the board lately, concentrating on getting this thing done. ;)

I have almost got the gauges done. Need to do the speedo pod in the center on the truck side and finish up the brown wire on the "GEN" light once I get the SS tube mounted to the engine for the altenator wires.

Also spent some more quality time bumping dents on the hood.

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Well I really like the dash you installed... I've seen that done a couple of times and it always adds a real custom touch.. I will try to get the link up in a few days.. I am real busy now and don't have much time extra.. LOL Only get to work on the 57 every so often..

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a couple of photos of my therapy/ Attachment 807518

Attachment 807519

Attachment 807520

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Very nice truckguy.

Got the rear LED lights done....almost. Just need to clean it up a little. The right side did just fine. It took me forever to get the left side to ground, but I got it. I also used a QD for the lights just in case the bed has to come off. I still need a ground strap for the bed. I was just using an extra battery to power the lights. I haven't powered up the complete truck just yet.

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Well I see you went to the "extreme" of buying all your weatherpak connectors.. LOL I visted my local yards and pulled a couple of hundred from Gm cars and trucks.. Found everthing I needed and then got on the internet and purchased the correct connectors to go in them... Saved a buch of money and gave me some special connectors such as 6pin connector from a Cadallic from the mid 80's. I put in a kit from EZwire.. they have a great diagram and easy to follow instructions. Great job on your truck, as I've said before your inspire all who find you..

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just curious, did you have to scrape off some paint to get the light to ground. I had to run a special ground wire as my lights are in a fiberglass roll pan.. you will appreciate this.. when I was doing the headlights. I reversed the ground and low beam connecting in the socket and when I turned on the headlights and turned on the 4 way flashers the dash lights flashed. I almost fell out of the truck I was laughing so hard... LOL Called the hot line at easy wire and he knew what I had done right a way.. 5 minute fix 6 months to figure it out..

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I went the lazy way and just clicked "buy". :haha:

Yes, I had to clean off several layers of primer and paint off the "J" clips for the tail light housing.

That's funny, now that you figured it out. I wonder what gremlins I will have when I power every thing up.

TIP: I discovered this today, maybe ya'll already know. I was trying to get a string run thru some tubing so I could pull some wires. It wasn't going very well. I blew air thru the tube while feeding the sting and it worked nicely. It took one good blast of about a second.

I got the tubing in for the tail lights and fuel tank and rerouted the headlights, radiator fan and horn.

Also got the gauges mounted for the final time (I hope). Still have to wire the park brake light.

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Nice progress Alan. Won't be long now. I bet you can't wait. :metal:

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I leave for a month and your almost done. Looks good. Cant wait till you start it.

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Very clean Alan..

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very neat job of running the wireing down the frame. wish I had thought of that. I used the rubber insulated clamps..

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hey Alan , I don't think thoes era of trucks came standard with a park brake light switch. Mine didn't I know for sure. It had the hand operated handle that you had to pull to activate the park brake, then hit your knee on when getting out of the vehicle. Ha Ha. Did it several times..

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You might try using on of thoes GM SLS 182 switches.. Easy to install and cheap// 6 bucks on ebay.. it is a normally on switch that turns on the light when the lever is moved away from it. I can send you pic of my install it you need.

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Smooth idea, I like it!!

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Ahhh the excitement of running wire...
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That tubing turned out nice Alan.:metal: Keep up the good work.

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that looks really good alan! nice way to hide those wires, i might have to do something like that when i get to that point! where did you get those qd connectors??

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Alan, I just thought of something???? You've been such an inspiration to me and everyone on here, and since your going to be done with your truck soon. You're going to have to start another build right away to keep everyone pushing on in their builds. You kinda make everyone set their quality bar a little higher. So any plans on ANOTHER build after this one?? Or better yet you can come to Michigan and help me build another one...Yeah, I like the sounds of that better!!..lol

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Hey!! I like this Idea Alan, but I vote for mine to be next, I'm closer to ya and you wouldn't have to leave home. LOL just kidding

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You need to leave again so i can get some more done. J/K :haha:

Thanks David, I'm trying to do my best.

It's not too late. I had mine ran for the tail lights and redid it.

I tend to agree with ya. I was going to look at a wiring diagram to be sure.

Post a pic here if you don't mind, thanks. Thanks for the PN as well.

:thumbs:

So far so good. The true test is yet to come.

Thanks neighbor and thanks for the donation to the cause. ;)

Link to perfplusconnection on ebay Very nice people

Thanks, but after this one I will not do another for myself unless the money is there. I couldn't imagine paying a shop to do what I have done to this truck. ;) I'm hoping this truck will bring me more business than I can handle. It will be a great business card. If I was well off and the kids were grown I have thought about being mobile. We could see the country and work on trucks and meet some cool people. AHHHH dreams.

Your right Kevin, you know what the sad thing is? We live so close but have yet to see each others projects. Every time I get off at the Holy Springs exit I think about it. Well, that's all I have done is think about it. Someday. ;)

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Alan, about tools...

Just a bit of back history: I worked a couple summers with my father in the EARLY 80s in his best friends welding shop. I didnt learn as much as I now wished I had...
I am looking to get a small welder but not sure what size to get. I have looked at a few of the 115v but the dials are preset and are marked as Setting 1-3 or 1-6 depending on the make. I would rather have one that is more descriptive of the amps it is pushing. Any ideas on a good model to keep my eyes out for? I dont think I would be welding any thing bigger or thicker than basic frame (1/4" or so yes?)

I also cannot find the hammer tip you have in your air hammer... where did you get that?

And I dont know what it was called, but I want to find an air tool we had back then in the shop that we used to chip the slag and flux off of the stick welds. It basically looked like a cup with a bunch of pencils sticking out of it with a trigger like a die cutter. I have got some serious caked on gunk down under where the sun dont shine and this tool would be perfect for chipping it off....

Lastly what seam sealer do you use and where do you get it? I have looked at all the major auto parts stores here but they cater more to the girls who need air freshners more than anything else it seems.

thanks in advance sir !!

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I like my lincoln Mig Welder. And your right it does great on sheet metal. Thick metal too. :metal:

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Harbor freight also carries those bits for the air hammer.;) I'm back now so slow down for awhile so I can get caught up.:lol: Don't you have any other hobbies?:lol: Between your site and Strodders dirty Emails I'll be busy for a week.

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Alan here are a couple of pics of the GM switch I used for the brake lights. Used to have one of thoes pressure switches on the main brake line.. just didn't seem to work all the time. this has been perfect. I think it could be adapted to work on the emergercy brake.

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also here is a couple pics of the custom door panels I made from scratch. since these trucks had didly for interior, the misses needed some creature comfort.

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Just wanted to say that the entire interior was made, except the seats, without a sewing machine... entirely chip board and glue. After I get them reinstalled I'll send pics. if you want.

Oh by the way the holes in the panel are for the arm rest to attach to the door, the speakes mounting point and the opening handle.

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I would like to add my two cents to the welder question, I have had a Millermatic 35 for years good welder but not good on sheet metal. I bought a Hobart Rancher 140 from Northern Tool for $499 including cart and shipping.
The Hobart works (GREAT)

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The smaller welders work good on sheet metal, but doesn't penetrate good on thicker metal, like a frame.

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Thank you Alan, and all the others who replied about the welders. I think there is one of the Lincolns at the local hockshop for $225. I will pop in there today after work and take a look at it.

Yep that Needle Scaler is exactly what I had in mind !!

You guys rock !!

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your right Allen every time I'm headed north on 575 I think the same thing too I say to myself I need to get up there and check it out

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Thought that I would throw my 2 cents in, not that it is needed but for welders I bought a Lincoln 180 C a few years ago works great on sheet metal and Frames.

What I like it about is the heat settings are continuous no clicking or preset clicks if I need a little more heat i can just move the dial a fraction rather than whole click you can get the fine tuning you need with sheet metal

Now I just wish I was a better welder

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Me too, but a better welder helps, along with a good welders mask.

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My 2 cents worth.

I also have a small welder, off brand, does a ok job on up to 1/4 inch but i've( meaning my skills) are lacking in welding sheet metal. fortunately I've made an friend who welds for a living. He builds staninless steel and other metal headers for dragsters and high end hot rods.. He is a real artist.. He wants to build a set of headers for my truck with the BB but I've not seen the need thus far. Not a drag car, just a daily driver type.

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Thanks for the pics. That will be something I do when everything else is done.

Nice work on the panels

:thumbs:

:lol: someday it will happen.

Good safety tip.

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.

I took some advice off the FAQ headlight upgrade thread. I was trying to figure out a good location for the relays. The FAQ showed them behind the grill. It's a good place, but I wanted them completly out of sight. I was thinking they will be visible behind the grill. I also wanted them to be easily accessed, so I moved them up some. They are located under the panel from the headlight mount panel to the radiator support. I roughed it out tonight just need to clean it up and paint. I also mounted the fan relay there as well. The wires will be routed so they can't be seen.

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Slick!

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yep cool idea to move them up to where they cant be seen I am a believer of the minimalist look, or clean un-cluttered look Alan is an artist

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Thanks guys!! :thumbs:

Got the bracket finished up. By keeping them up higher and sheltered it should keep them dry as well.

I'm trying to figure out what AWG size is required for 20 amps, from the chart I found says a 16 AWG will carry 22 amps. The conductor size is .0508. The wires on the 12v feed to the relays measures about .090" (stripped) which shows on the chart to be a 11 AWG. I feel I should match the wire size that feeds the relay from the battery.

The fan relay says 20 amps continous, but it has a 30 amp fuse. :uhmk:

I have some left over wire from the main harness that measures .090". I will just use that to feed the relays.

On the headlight relays I plan on feed 12v via one wire from the battery and split it to the relays. I will install a 20 amp circuit breaker on the single wire.

For those of you that are following this thread and are wiring up your truck, don't listen to me. I'm asking questions and faking it til I make it here. :lol: