Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
About your brakes- You might want to pull your master and booster apart and see if there's a gap between the rods. The one coming from the booster is adjustable and you want them to juuuuust touch at rest. I bet you have a small gap in there. Just went through this with my new build. Beater 4x4 looks great!
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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
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I don't have a lot to show for day 1 of Vintage Air install. I assembled the condenser and drier, but the "well nuts" provided do not fit through the factory holes in the core support. I really don't want to take the grill off just to make two holes slightly bigger.
Speaking of taking off parts to make holes... I thought I wouldn't have to take the inner fender off since the previous owner removed all the factory ac components. It turns out I will just to drill a few holes for installing the firewall plate. All the old rusty bolts for the inner fender came out except one, and it has me defeated for today. Too hot outside to continue. Attachment 2038244 Attachment 2038245 Attachment 2038246 Attachment 2038247 |
Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
always has to be one bolt that won't cooperate...
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I hear that it's hot there. I just watched the noon news. Keep plugging away at it your experience is gonna help me out.....lol..
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Jimbo, hate to say it but you're gonna have to take off at least the inner grill anyway. I'm finishing up the VA project now, and there was no way to put those aluminum lines through the core support with all their bends with the inner grill installed. Pretty quick taking it off, 8-10 screws maybe? I just dropped it down, did not remove it completely. The rubber well nuts were bigger than the holes in my core support also, just drilled the holes SLIGHTLY bigger.
Would also be hard to do this without dropping the inner fender, be easy to drill right through it when you make your drain hole later. I left the front vertical bolts installed loosely, no need to take the inner fender off completely unless you want to for some reason. See pic, it's just hanging there by the front bolts. Also, quick tip, before you bolt in your AC unit in the cab run your wiring harness wires through the grommet in the firewall. It was kind of a PITA to get back behind the box and run the wires with the AC box in the way. |
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I got it. It took two pairs of vice grips and a lot of cursing, but I got it. The darn clip on nut behind one bolt was busted.
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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
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My engineer friend helped me design a rear bumper in Solidworks. He is going to cut and form it at his work.
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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
That bumper looks pretty nice
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I finished mounting the firewall plate this morning. The fresh air duct and the kick panel vent are sealed off too.
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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
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I found the factory AC vents that were in a crate of parts the previous owner of the truck gave me. A quick wash and they were ready for the Vintage Air duct adapters and installation.
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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
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Per the advice from NorCalC20LWB, I accepted my fate and tore the grill and bumper off the truck for access to install the condenser. I also ran the wiring through the firewall before the evaporator, which I assembled this morning.
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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
It's looking good, your making it look fairly simple too.
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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
Man, Jimbo, you do move right along, looking good! Good idea to take the whole grill off, couple of extra bolts but then you don't have to deal with the hassle of putting the grill insert screws/plastic nuts back in. Once you get the inner box in it's pretty much smooth sailing from there.
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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
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All I had time for today is the condenser hard lines, safety switch, and reassembly of the grill and bumper.
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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
The condenser and hard lines look clean. Were they prebent?
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I went to replace the crank pulley this morning and found an unexpected issue - the harmonic balancer crank bolt is missing. I can feel threads, but the hole was full of mud like it has been missing for a long time. I think I have to fix this.
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Re: '72 Cheyenne K10
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Jimbo, I just finished my VA install and had it charged, you will like the results, ice cold! If your truck was a non AC cab, do you need this part? It's the bracket to connect the AC lines to the battery box. If you can use let me know and I'll get it in the mail. I didn't need it because mine is an AC cab.
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The evaporator is installed under the dash.
Seriously, why a 5/8" hole for the drain? Nobody has a drill bit that size. It costs almost $20 at Lowe's to buy one. I have a tough time spending that just to drill one hole. Attachment 2038915 |
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Harmonic balancer bolt was just missing. I got a new bolt at the parts store and installed the new pulley without any issues.
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