Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy (Post 3918312)

That looks nice! Very clean and simple, which I like alot.

I'm doing a very similar set-up on mine, but I'm not putting the master cylinder so far back because my air ride stuff is going to really take up all the space in the front side of the bed where your master cylinder is mounted.
Could you move your air ride stuff on the opposite side of your frame?

Does the pushrod on the forward side of your Hydroboost unit flop around?
It felt like it was on a swivel until I got everythying together. The pedal works really nice and it has very little side movement.

Mine feels like it's on a swivel, and I think I might have to build a support to keep it in alignment with the rest of the linkage.
I think as long as you keep everything in a straight line it should be fine. My rod is right at 36" long and the action feels solid

With the DOM, does it feel really sturdy and does the pedal move nice and free when you depress the piston in the master cylinder? Yes it works really nice.

It looks like it will work great to me, but because I'm still in the planning stage, I have to ask. My whole episode started when I mocked up the headers and the 3" tubing was really tight to both the master cylinder and the transmission. The transmission can't be moved, so my plan is to try to move the braking system as close to the framerail as I can. I'm trying to give myself as much room as possible because I'm such a detail freak and I want the exhaust tubing placement to be a mirror image from the driver's and passenger side. I'm using a TCI universal pedal assembly and it looks like I might be able to cut it back off and build a new mounting bracket. The brake linkage is only going to be about 18" long, and I've got a stick of chromemoly that will work. I'm thinking that I might build a bellcrank set-up with an offset. I'm about 2 weeks away from tackling this, and I'll post pictures with the results.

If you have the means, I would highly suggest putting in a mock-up block, heads, and transmission and test fit your headers right now while you've got the cab off. I thought I had tons of room until I mocked everything up. I'm also going with a 3" exhaust with mandrel bends and v-band clamps, and that stuff takes up space. Are you going big block or small block?
I'm running a big block. I've already figured on custom headers. I hope I can get the exhaust to run along the outside of the frame and exit behind the cab. I think there will be enough room between the frame and the steps. I will just have to modify the front cab mount for it to go through it.

I like your truck alot. I live in Southern California too, and maybe one day I'll be able to check it out in person. There's a whole bunch of us that should all get together for a roadtrip when we finish up our rides (Kabwe, KustomBrad, yourself, and lots of others)
We should try and meet at the Brothers show if you can make it. I've met Kabwe and Tri5 there.

Originally Posted by addicted2dunes (Post 3969407)

The only thing I'd worry about is you have a lot of leverage on that brake booster with that long rod. I've dealt with hydroboost a lot and know that it puts out tons of braking with a light foot. But if you decide to slam the brakes hard your feet put out a lot of pressure also.

In the pic I have circled the joint end in green. That area can move in any which way it needs to. Now my thought is with hard braking this area will kick upwards hence snapping the threads circled in red.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...nes/Pedal5.jpg

From my experience it is best to cut the booster shaft (at red lines) and machine the area between the red lines down to 1/2" so it slips inside your tubing like a bung. Weld it there, then grind it smooth and sleeve over the whole area and weld the sleeve, no chance of breaking then.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...nes/Pedal4.jpg

Like this:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...nes/Pedal3.jpg

I know, very crude drawing..... Good thing I'm no photo editor.

Originally Posted by bajabob (Post 4037415)

Kim57
Kabwe and I have been talking about the patch panels on the doors of our trucks. Mine are all messed up and he found your postings of how you fixed yours.

My question is what is the orange stuff on the inside of your door ???? Would you use it on a complete door (ie no patch panels ???) I picked up a second set of used doors that are in better shape but have signs of the same stuff happening down there at the bottom....

thanks, the mad welding skills here is amazing thanks for inspiring the rest of us...

Originally Posted by Fat Mike (Post 4097393)

Any updates?? Look forward to some pictures!!

Originally Posted by Kabwe (Post 4102119)

Kim57,

I see the hood just hanging on your wall just asking to be cut.lol

Originally Posted by Kim57 (Post 4102769)

It's gonna have to wait its turn. I just got the cab and front sheet metal back on and I'm fighting with trying to fit the doors. Very frustrating trying to get at least one good gap.
Kim

Originally Posted by jjjmm56 (Post 4236109)

Kim everything is looking great! Heres a few things I've been running into.When you set your door alignments add some weight to the door about the same amount as your windows and hardwear. My door dropped after I installed my windows, and had to realign. Also if you have door rubber put it on and check door closing,I had trouble with my drivers door I needed to cut my rubber thinner so the door would close without pushing the door out. Keep up the good work!

Originally Posted by 1Bad62Pro/Street (Post 4240864)