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Re: PO has me PO'd
WOW you have a good hand for this work! I cant believe i haven't seen this thread till today.
How is the door-cab alignment working out? It looks like there is no bracing to help hold it straight but your work looks EXTREMELY straight. Just wondering, in about a month I am going to be doing basically the same work to mine and will use this thread as reference fer sure!! A note on welding over screws and other things that are not part of the two pieces getting welded together. It is not a good idea, on sheet metal you can likely get away with no problems if the screws are not coated or made from alloys because the sheet metal is not a going to be stressed so much and its getting sanded smooth so you will see if the weld is jacked. BUT if you are welding something that will be structural and you want it to hold as a weld should make sure the metal is as clean as you possibly can get it even if you have wire or rod that is made for rusty/durrty metal try and get it clean. Do not have anything else in the weld area like bolts and washers they wont fuse the same and may cause nasty porosity and defects. Wich will cause it to fail down the road. |
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Thanks Durrty, been a long process. The other day I finally took down the cable that was holding the windshield frame to my rafters. There is one fender bolt hole with perfect balance and alignment to hang it from. Plus I took alot of measurements and dropped a string line to the back edge of my windsheild frame.
Body and doorlines came out OK, it opens and shuts nice, main objective. I originally had no idea where anything went due to excessive rust, so I just screwed everything together and mounted and unmounted my door alot to check for alignment. Still a little more welding to do, thats why there are screws still in, all screws were removed and holes filled in with weld... Again thanks for the compliments, there are men on here that do it for living that are far superior to me, it's just a hobby for me. L8R J. |
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Bump for an excellent thread! :metal:
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I'll 2nd that! :metal:
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You guys humble me, gotta admit, when I first started I was very nervous. Lots of people read this stuff and I thought everyone would make fun of my typing mistakes and poor grammer. But, it seems that if someone can make sense of it, anything flies...
I guess I have feshen up my thread with more progess, but first I have to go WHEEEEEEELIN at Rausch Creek.... J. |
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I guess until then...the beer will have to do. |
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This one was setup a year in advance, so you have plenty of time to prepare. As I say this, I have to laugh, because the Jimmy is still not done. Oh well, maybe next year... |
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Excellant work and progress! A couple of questions. When you weld on a flange do you weld the bottom of the flange if you can get to it? If not how do you prep the other edge that is not welded to prevent future rust? I read about weldable primer, is it self explanatory? You can weld through/over the primer and it helps fight rust?
Thanks Mark |
Re: PO has me PO'd
Basically the weld turns into a spot weld, but you should try to weld top and bottom. When flanged, the metal is double thick and you should be able to tack it without fear of burn thru.
I found that the metal becomes thinner on the grinding step, as you will hit the sheetmetal with the wheel, thus reducing the thickness. You will see the metal turn blue and then you want to stay clear of that spot. If you grind only the weld with a flapper wheel and then come back with a rotary grinder, you are only removing the extra weld matrl. They look like carbide burrs and mount in a collet on an air tool. They can spin high RPM's so watch your eyes... You can still come back and put a layer of seam sealer in the crack area, but if you put enough tacks along the seam, top and bottom, it should be water tight. I'll post up pics. of exactly how its done, when I get back from WHEEEELIN Thanks for the comps., any help I can be, I'm always sitting right here..... J. Yes always use weldable primer, it will give the bare metal between the flanges some protection. Dang it takes a long time to type what I think... |
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Thanks for the quick response!! I look forward to your future posts!!
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Hey J, what's been going on with the Jimmy? Any progress?
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Just have to finish up some welding, working on the exhaust rite now, 2 1/2 exhaust manifolds, SS catalytic convertors sure would be nice to hear it run. Rust really sucks....how's yours makin out? J. |
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Approaching a year now since the PO got ya PO'd. :hm:
Gonna be worth the wait, just wait, you'll see... Wait, we are waiting...:lol: Nother bump so the newbs can read the thread and learn what it takes to bring em back. :metal: |
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I feel bad, I just spent 9 days on the beach with a fishing rod in my hands and not one thought of the Jimmy. That is sick, then I walked into the shop and it all came back to me.
Summertime, ain't it great, it is just too nice outside to work on the truck. I can't believe all the threads with people doing restos and customs, makes for entertaining reading.... Thanks for the ttt, J. BTW, do you believe that guy rolled the black blazer, what a waiste |
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Life is too short! Enjoy!! Oh and don't forget...:b69: And BTW J, keep up the good work. |
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Saga Continues:
The new challenge is to hang my 2 1/2" ramshorn dual exhaust. Meinke bent the pipes, just took one side over to them as a pattern, and they bent it up-not mandrel bent, but better than 2"- $200.00 for 4 pcs. to the mufflers. Pc. of cake so far, then there was the hangers... After searching old FAQ's, and posts pertaining to exhausts, to no avale, I called GMC dealers, talked to board members, Advance Auto, and called NAPA. The NAPA store came thru with the parts, part #35517 and part #35209, not sure if these are exactly right but they will work for now. Flanges, $9.00 each, that pull pipe to the manifolds were located off a corvette site, man those guys spend twice as much for a manifold, $130.00 a side, mine $130.00 for the set shipped to my house from the west coast, Frank's Pickemup One problem still to solve, since the Jimmy only came with single exhaust, I have to fabricate or locate, the intermediate bracket. I'm thinking the P/U truck guys might use this same bracket, seems there are alot of trashed trucks out there and not many Jimmys Anyways here are some early pics. of where I'm starting. The first pic. shows a hanger that gets welded to the pipe, but I couldn't locate the rubber pc. that gets bolted to the intermediate bracket, so I went another way http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...replace149.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...replace148.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...replace147.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...replace146.jpg Ugly, huh!!! PO strikes again http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...replace145.jpg |
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