Re: Camshafts..
 

Okay.....I just had to make my own prediction come true! :lol:

Re: Camshafts..
 

But do they think you are bringing a bare block? Are you pulling the roatating assembly?

Re: Camshafts..
 

I would think if the crank was pulled, and all the pistons pushed to the top of the cylinders, it shouldn't be too bad to R&R the cam bearings. Although there might be some 'debris' from the R&R process.

Re: Camshafts..
 

It's so funny how a simple thing can cause you to have to go so much farther. Twice I have decided to pull a rotating assembly out only to have rings hitting the garage floor.

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They said tthey can do it with everything but the oil pan and timing coveand flywheel out of the way?

Not real sure how i'll clena up after new cam bearings are installed though lol

I thought Id have to drop the crank as well...

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When you get it out I would pop a main and a couple rod bearings to make sure the crank is ok. That metal more than likely went through the system but you might of got lucky. Con Grats on going in to the A/F, I am taking that you mean Air Force?

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I guess there must be a way to get a rod at the bottom of the stroke and work it up in there. Sure doesn't seem like any room to work but they must know.

I just looked at some pics of the crank side of a SBC. I'm thinking if they have a thin tool that could hold the bearing, it does look like there JUST might be enough room to get the bearing up in there.

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I dunno prostreet. They said they could do it while I waited...

Frankie-Yeah the air force I leave for my basic the 6th.

And I wasnt ran with shavings in the oil...could I flush it or something I didnt see any while draining the oil last nite...

thanks

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ps im taking the cam with me to have the machine shop isntall LOL and make sure its isntalled professionally :lol:

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Just got home from the machine shop. New cam bearings and I had them put the cam in as well. I had them install it with the lube from the lunati cam box. Im going to clean it up a bit tomorow and work on going back together with it I guess.

So is it really that important to break in with 30wt oil? I have 10-30 penzoil that I got on sale. The machine shop also said 30wt oil is needed for break in, I think he said NON DETERGENT oil though...

How tight should the dipstick be too btw? And I was leaking oil at the drain bolt whys it leaking thanks

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:dohh:

"Myth #6 - Engines have to be “broken in” before using synthetic oil. I need to break in my engine with non-detergent oil. If I use regular oil or synthetic oil in a new engine, my engine will take longer to break in.

Fact: It was common years ago for engine manufacturers to recommend non-detergent oils for engine break-in. This was when the pistons used cast-iron “square-faced” rings and the rings needed to wear some to “seat” into the engine. With today’s technology of oils and engine manufacturing, engine manufacturers no longer recommend the use of non-detergent oils for the break-in period. In fact, engines today are factory-filled with high quality API SL performance motor oil, which contains high levels of detergents and dispersant additives."

Oil Myths and Facts


I'd say listen to your Machinest, unless he's the one who installed the cam on the first go-round. :lol:
P.S. NOTICE the above FACT is for TODAY'S ENGINES. Yours is not a TODAY engine.
.

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Hes the one who installed it?

Ps, I never noticed a lip etc or anything on the bearing other than some metal the actual bearing didnt look bad. The back was scuffed up etc

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I still use straight 30wt with a ZDDP additive... some habits die hard.

Gary

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Just playin. Listen to your Machinest. Did he suggest what the shavings were from?

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No but they had to have been from cam bearings. I have the old oil filter I can cut up but there went any metal in the pan etc lobes etc looked ok as rough as I got with the cam comming out it was the bearings i think

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That's good news. What brand bearing did you use last time and now? Clevite? It'll be back in the truck easy. Try a nylon gasket for that drain plug, if it works = cheap solution. Magnetized drain plug for peace of mind.

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Good choice I gave my son 2 in 1986 when he graduated HS Air Force or Navy if he wanted to come out with a education he could use when he got out. He started as an Airman and is now an Lt. Col he worked hard now he has 1.5 years left and will retire at 45yro with over 50k per yr pension. Good Luck and thanks for choosing to serve our country

Some times the oil will have sliver streaks in it but that would be more an extreme case, you might of got lucky sure hope so. Before you leave for Basics make sure the cylinders are well lubed and the engine sealed up if you aren't sure how long you will be gone you don’t want to come back to a stuck engine.

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Ok. Just got timing chain cover on etc.

Cam dot is @ 6 o clock

Crank dot is at 12 o clock

This is right, isnt it? (Too late the cover is on and rtv'd and new felrpo gasket on lol

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Is this factory or what? it was leaking and i dont wanna put it on really. I think I'll wait and see if I can get another pan.

2 Things holding me back right now

1-Dipstick is loose (I made iit bigger and it was tight going in but still loose IDK if it leaks oil or not Id like to fix it while its on the stand)

2-The oil pan is bent up around the drain bolt and the nut on the inside is suspicicous...

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John.....yes cam at 6 and crank at 12 so they are lined up with each other. What the heck is that a pic of??

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prostreet... it's the inside of the oil pan where the drain bolt goes in. John... That's normal. Ya gotta have threads for the pan bolt to screw into.

Gary

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Ok looked like a wacky PO job.

So whys it leaking its bent (look carefully at pic of inside) Should I try to find a new pan or what? Its such a job to replace pans Id rather do it now. Also I think im going to try to find a new GM dipstick,will a fairly large dealer still stock them?

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LOL....since we were talking about timing chains, I thought it was a pic of some part of the chain cover! Makes sense now.

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:lol:

Ive never tried to pick wifi up the garage. I came to work and now I'll never get anything done!!!

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I would just straighten that pan out. Get yourself a piece of 2x4 about 16" long and a BFH. Set the pan on a concrete floor or something solid. Then starting at the drain plug, start hammering on the end of the 2x4 with the other end in the bottom of the pan, and work around in a circular pattern until the bottom of the pan is flat. Ideally you would want to finish up with setting the pan on a bag of sand or similar, and working the bottom of the pan a little more.

You should still get a new drain plug gasket and make sure the area under the head of the drain plug is nice and flat.