Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
That looks really good!
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
We had a big dump of snow, which had finally melted and dried up for a nice clear sunny weekend, so I got the door blasted. Elapsed time: 4 hours. New bottom will be welded in, so I didn't worry about wasting time blasting that.
https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...9s-672x378.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Brought this 52" jobbie home from Home Depot for $398 (about $300us) to better organize my autobody and metalwork tools. This should make my working environment better; everything actually has its place now.
Loaded it up tonight, and.............. it's full. Wow. https://homedepot.scene7.com/is/imag...1001032615.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
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Kobalt 52" 10 drawer ~$438 Sears Craftsmen 52" 10 drawer ~$398 The only difference I see is the box you pictured has a solid top drawer where the ones I looked @ had it split. I like the split drawers to help keep my SAE/Metrics apart as well as other items. They had top chests as well to compliment the lower half. Less than $800 for top/bottom 52" storage is decent & I might just bite. |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Working on the door bottom. In fitting the driver's door, I discovered just how badly the aftermarket door bottom was shaped, and had to slice and re-shape the door bottom in place. Today I'm re-shaping it before welding it in.
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Comparing the replacement bottom with the old bottom, the new one is curved, it should be straight. The corners are junk.
https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...2s-672x378.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...1s-672x378.jpg The flange should sit flat on the table like the original, but it doesn't (dunno if you can see it - I put a light behind): https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...3s-672x378.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...4s-672x378.jpg So I did a whole lot of slicing, and added about 1/4" of metal to get the flange flat again. Then sliced to fit it. A bit more fitting and it will be welded in. https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...5s-672x378.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Tweaked a bit of the door bottom fit, and checked it with the door skin; I'm feeling confident enough to lay down some primer. Also coated the driver's door since the gun was out.
https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...4s-672x378.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...2s-672x378.jpg Also, tried this new sprayer for pre-paint cleaner, since my super cheap plastic one got a pre-paint cleaner enema of no return. Seems decent. https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...1s-672x378.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Once the primer had cured, I TIG-welded the door bottom (I was skeptical of doing oxy-acetylene again). There was still warping, but it was still easier to planish than MIG welds. I -think- I get less warp with MIG, but I might be fooling myself - there might just be more finishing with MIG than TIG, but I'm trying different approaches to see which one I like better.
https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...ig-672x377.jpg Then a good scuff on the inside of the door bottom as well as the skin, and two coats of epoxy primer. https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...7s-672x378.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Nice! I got a chance to watch your video about the cab rust. I think I'll go with your recommendation to start from the outer rocker and go in to the floor. That sounds like an easier way to get everything to ~mostly~ line up since as you say, the panels are drunk :lol:
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
I'd almost also recommend fixing your doors first, so you can gap the rockers to however the doors ended up. Now that I'm finishing the doors last.
I don't really want to do another truck just to test my theory, but it's how I would do it if I were to do it again. |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
That's some nice work on your doors. That is my last serious patching job that I need to do. I'm sorry to hear you had so much fit problems with the inner bottom patches. I'm ready to order patches and would like to know which vendor you bought them from.
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Pretty sure most of my parts have been a mix of Counterpart and Goodmark, but I don't know what the door parts were exactly.
If you're fussy, you're likely going to be dissatisfied with whatever brand you get. If you're not fussy, you won't notice how bad they fit and it won't matter. I spell it CDO - that way the letters are in alphabetical order. |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
All of my patch panels are Tri-Plus parts from Auto Metal Direct. I have fixed the driver's door and the patch seemed to fit well. Granted, that was one of the first few things I attempted, but I'm pretty happy with it. Only thing that I need to see about fine tuning is the front corner of the inner patch was bent too far in, so that corner got pulled in past the fender. I haven't got a chance to see about working it back out
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Skin welded and attached.
As you tack together, grind your tacks down before the next tack. This helps slow you down, so you minimize the heat put into the panel. A smart cookie would grind both sides down, and planish. https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...0s-672x378.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...5s-672x378.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...5s-672x378.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
You are making great progress...keep it up!
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Epoxy primer for the doors tomorrow.
These trucks aren't even -symmetrically- drunk. https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...3s-672x378.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...2s-378x672.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...4s-672x378.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...7s-378x672.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...6s-672x378.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...5s-378x672.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Dadgum, those are some nice gaps now. Did you just build up some weld to the edges, or did you weld something else onto the door?
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Nice work!
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Great job on the gaps!!
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Some edges were merely built up with weld, others I welded some TIG rod onto the edge, and some I ground down the seam to the right shape, and then welded the split closed again.
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
And primer. I do like the touch-up gun for minimal overspray, AND for spraying down the inside of the door.
https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...er-672x378.jpg Before placing the cab back on the frame, I cut the top off the "X" in the frame to clear the driveshaft. I haven't decided if I will use part of the original "bottom of X", or fabricate a new piece to cover it. https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...4s-672x378.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
I decided.
https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...2s-672x378.jpg Sexy shot of the manufacturer's sticker: https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...0s-672x378.jpg I have to raise this section of the floor. I don't think I have to raise the boxed section under the rear cab wall: https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...1s-672x378.jpg I'll need to cut a hole through the frame for exhaust exit: https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...8s-672x378.jpg And I finalized the rear shock mounts. Modified and relocated stockers: https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...5s-672x378.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...6s-672x378.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...7s-672x378.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Of course, with the raised "X," I need to clearance the floor. It -looks- like this will be an easy fix. I just need to cut the floor out. 5 hours in the shop, and I formed this new panel. It will be epoxy primered, and then spot welded into the floor. Spot welding significantly reduces the amount of warp I can introduce to the panel.
https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...6s-672x378.jpg https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...2s-672x378.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
I also knew earlier that running your thumbs through the French Wheel hurts. Today I found that running your pinkie under the Tipping Die hurts too.
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Ouch. But you are making awesome progress. Thanks for the door video - I see new door bottoms in my future.
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Center cut out, and spot-weld holes are drilled:
https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...0s-672x378.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
You have some nice metal working skills and the door video will be helpful as this will be my final patching project.
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
I'm certainly getting better at the metalworking. I still consider myself a two-bit hack, but sometimes things actually turn out well. Thanks for the compliment!
I'd still rather build ten engines than do this again. Got a coat of primer on the cover. Will weld in on the weekend. |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
I needed to see if this all fit, but before I did, I repaired a badly corroded cab mount with 3/16" plate (a bit thicker than original).
https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...7s-672x378.jpg Cab went back on the frame to check for fit. I added some strengthening ribs on the passenger side of the raised "X" to strengthen the top, since due to the lateral angle of the driveshaft, it was no longer trapezoidal. https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...9s-672x378.jpg Welded on, and I am -very- pleased with the result. Driveshaft clears the back of the cab by 1/4". https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...4s-672x378.jpg Glory shot, control arms on the ground: https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...2s-672x378.jpg |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Nothing new, but put the bed (which had been stored outside) on the rolling stand I made for moving the cab around, and brought it into the shop.
https://www.gwellwood.com/wordpress/...7s-672x378.jpg Did some thinking and measuring, and things were not adding up at all. It was looking like I shortened the rear of the frame WAY too much. Oh no! I scoured the internet, I looked for lots of pictures of a stepside frame, and couldn't figure out why the rear bolts won't meet the frame. I had cut 8" off the back. Oh but wait. A stepside bed is 14.5" shorter in the front, and 5.5" shorter in the back, to equal 20". So the 5.5" the back moves, PLUS the extra 2.5" at the front, is 8". I'm good. Whew! Not entirely sure the bed mount holes behind the axle are really where I want them, but I can make something work. |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Damn this thing is going to look awesome!!
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
I looked at a variety of bed floor options.
Options: Bed wood kit: $750 CDN Make my own wood using composite fascia boards: $630 CDN If I do a wood or woodesque floor, I'll need new bed floor strips and angles: $150 CDN New steel fleetside bed floor I can cut down: $1300 CDN Maybe find/modify a bed floor from Pick-N-Pull: $190 to $430 CDN (I'm not sure how they would price this) Find a local bed and cut a floor out: $500+ CDN Decision: In the end, I can buy wood through the school wood shop at cost and make my own. So that's what I decided to do, in Red Oak. I ordered bed strips from Bill's Truck Shop in Ontario. I intend to do a black stain, and then an oil finish so I can just keep oiling it off and on, maybe even with used motor oil since I will have some at every oil change. |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Doing the bed yourself is the way to go if you have the tools and capability I think. There are some nice kits out there that make it real easy but the pride of doing it yourself when you have done everything else it worth the extra effort to me. I plan to mill my own as well and CNC my wood shop logo into the bed floor for something a little extra and because the truck will be used for my business so why not! I can't see what you end up with in the end.
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
I work with wood under duress. Wood is for wheel chocks, sub boxes, and protecting my drill press table.
I can benefit financially from the school's bulk raw wood purchasing, and run it all through the planer at work. |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
Second guessing the Red Oak option.
While LOTS of people are using Red Oak for the bed floors, these are mostly the "show" trucks with the miles-deep bar-table varnish on top. Clearly not for going to Art Knapps Plant Land for a scoop of crushed granite, or skidding a big block Chevy to the header panel to haul home from Pick-N-Pull. I looked at other wood options = I'm kind of committed since I have new bed skid and angle strips coming. I looked at Ipe and Apitong, and Hemlock, and Hickory.... I'm back at my original though on going composite. Composite works out to about $210, since I can get three boards out of a 20' length, and it's cheaper by the 20'. |
Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
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Re: SkinnyG's '61 Apache
I understand it machines just fine.
I checked with a local supplier on Ipe; they don't have any, and don't expect to see any before spring. I didn't get the price, but if the pricing even comes close to composite, why not just go composite. Since I'm raising the bed floor anyway, I will be ordering composite deck planks (1" thick) this weekend, and alter the angle strip location to suit the taller thickness. I will probably also use the two "removed" bed braces and place them over the axle to better brace the boards, as I hear they don't do wide centers very well. I am a HUGE fan of "low maintenance" when it comes to a lot of things. |
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