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Re: "Elwood" the 77_remix
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I removed all of the RideTech suspension except the lower Strong Arms. I was able to strip them clean and prep for paint with them in place. The rest of the components were removed and prepped or replaced.
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While I was waiting for the painted parts to dry I kept busy building new tie rods. Mine were in good shape, but I had purchased new ones several years ago along with some cool billet adjusters from RideTech. I guess these are considered vintage now since they have the old Air Ride Technologies log on them.
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Re: "Elwood" the 77_remix
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With the paint cured, I bolted the new upper shock mounts in place. If your not running these mounts on your lowered or bagged truck, you should be. There is no way a shorter shock has the same damping ability as a longer shock. By adding additional length you gain fluid capacity and travel.
The RideTech HQ shocks are adjustable so you can dial in your rebound and firmness preference. They have 24 positions to choose from. RideTech suggests starting in the middle and tune to your driving style. |
Re: "Elwood" the 77_remix
so are we getting close to the "good stuff"......just sayin! LOL
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With the HQ shocks in place I could hoist the brake assembly on to the bottom ball joint. The Wilwood calipers and rotors are lighter than stock, but that modular spindle is a solid piece. With the bottom bolt secured, I tilted the assembly in place and pulled the upper Strong Arm down to meet.
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Now that the brake assembly was secured, I determined what fittings were needed to go from the 6 piston caliper to the braided stainless line. a quick trip to www.summitracing.com and my parts are on the way.
Until they arrive, I will continue to press forward. I removed the drag link assembly to prep and paint. While it was drying I started hanging the RideTech Muscle Bar. This new version is larger yet lighter due to tubing being used rather than bar stock. It came with bushing stand to improve end link angle as well. |
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The bushing stands use existing holes on the frame. Be sure to note the orientation of the bracket. It is possible to mount them backwards and not know it till the entire job is done. (So I'm told ;) ) I find it easiest to hang everything and get the nuts slightly started before tightening anything down.
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Once the end links are attached to the Muscle Bar they can be connected to the Strong Arms. I found it easier to tighten them first as the nut on the inside is hard to access if the angle is to extreme. With the end links tight, I moved on to the bushing bolts, and bushing stands. I ensure the the alignment was correct and tightened to specs.
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You make this look easy...
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Ken,... do you see any advantage of the new MuscleBar design vs the old MuscleBar design?
Any insight from Ridetech? |
Re: "Elwood" the 77_remix
Looking great!
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The new bars are 1.25" in diameter and constructed out of .188" wall DOM tubing. These are slightly more rigid than the solid design and show significant weight savings over the older bar. "Hollow" bars and their related components are now standard equipment in both C10 coilover and air suspension kits. |
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I knew it had to be more than the shape of the end of the bar. I also wondered if the frame bushings need to be mounted to the "stands" you provide,... or if they can be bolted directly to the frame like you had them? |
Re: "Elwood" the 77_remix
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I got the last pair of fittings needed to finish the Wilwood install yesterday. I put those on and adjusted the strain reliefs holding the stainless lines in place. This weekend I will install the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve and the braking system should be complete.
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Love how detailed your threads are, I get out in the garage and start thrashing and then remember that i didn't take any pics....... My threads are start......done! lol
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Friday night I worked on my exhaust system again. I realized that I was not going to have time to take it to New Star and have it ran the way I did on Scarlett so I opted for plan "B".
The V bands that Kevin from Deeds Engineering sent would have to wait. Till then, I used parts off the previous system and added the new components. It's not what I wanted, but it gets the job done for now. I will add Deeds billet hangers to hold it in place. |
Re: "Elwood" the 77_remix
Looks pretty good to me!
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This weekend I focused on getting the wiring corrected on the RideTech system. I have an older version of the Big Red valves (ARV 7000) that was connected to a Ride Pro E3 management system. The Big Red valves have had some updates including changing from 4 two pin connectors to 2 four pin connectors.
I was able to get the system running using an adapter harness that was on my Ride Pro E3. Unfortunately it was too short to route inside so it had to be under the cab. I decided to clean things up and convert the valve harness to 4 pin connectors. I had the pin extractor tool and 4 pin connectors, but had to chase down new pins locally. Just so you know, Oriellys Auto Parts does carry them. |
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I was forced to tape rather than use loom, but they look so much better now. Everything is working correctly and I eliminated the jumper harness. Time to move on to the next item on the list.
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http://www.ridetech.com/products/coo...th-stock-arms/ |
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so the brackets are not sold separate ?
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I love it when everything looks so fresh!!! keep it up
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With out the stands that potential increases, so they are a good addition to the kit. |
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Sunday Chris and I mapped out a plan for the interior. He is going to build a box to house the Ride Pro X processor and extra cables. We plan to add the optional height sensors when they become available. Until then we will leave all the excess harness intact.
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While Chris worked on stripping the interior we discussed supplies needed. We will run wires for the audio system now, but that won't happen till after Lonestar Throwdown.
Meanwhile I began the install of the Wilwood proportioning valve. I was told it could be mounted in place of the factory valve. It does line up with the existing holes, but that position does not allow for access to the adjustment knob. |
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We just don't want to make a habit of breaking down the kits and selling individual parts out of them if you know what I mean. 812-481-4737 |
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