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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
Fastbacks... how many cars you got? :lol:
I almost wish I woulda put a straight axle under there! Woulda been a heck of a lot cheaper! It was one of those things where I ordered the control arms a year ago. The shocks a month ago. Springs/roller perches/sway bar/adjustable strut rods a few weeks ago. Bearings and tie rods a couple weeks ago, and rotors last week. If I had ordered it all at once I probably would have freaked out on the cost (I still am when I think of how much it all was together!) The roller perches and adjustable strut rods were the killer, those were almost $700 alone with shipping, but I've read over and over how people love them. NOBODY makes "cheap" ones. I found a couple that might have saved me $150 or so, but I couldn't find many reviews, so I went with the best. They also make kits to make your own, but I don't have the time or confidence to be making suspension components! I even bought "cheap" shocks. I got the KYB GR2 for $120 for all of them. You can spend $5-600 for a set of Koni or Bilstein. It's crazy. I'm glad the rear will only be ~$300 for new springs, bushings and shackles! |
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New shoes, brake shoes, that is.
If my springs and sway bar would get here... |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
Looking great as always.
I hope my ponies never figure out how to use a computer. I’ve got them convinced that parts are almost impossible to find for old Mustangs and that’s why I’m not making much progress these days. |
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I have the same problem. This old girl has been sitting in the same spot for 4 years now, right next to the Mustang. I'm sure she wonders every day why nothing gets done. I have a hell of a parts collection now, but haven't touched it. After a 4 year renovation, my home is 95% done. My plan is finish the mustang 100% this year (that will include the new TMI interior coming next week and rebuilding and resealing the rear end on the car). Get the crate engine and drop kit in the C10 this summer/fall. Finish the house 100% this winter (down to a hallway, trim, doors, and closet in just ONE bedroom, and a small bathroom), then start on the bird next spring. Full bore, start cutting.
Also, my springs won't be here until tomorrow :( Leaving for Raleigh after work at noon and won't be back 'till 9 or 10 sunday night. Piss. There's also a reason for no PS suspension pics... I still haven't cleaned the spindles and brake mounting stuff. That's tonight's messy job. |
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I'm running out of time though! I HAVE to get it aligned next Friday and try to drive it a few days before making a 2 hour drive to Charlotte! Because of the brakes snowball (I was going to do all this anyway) the car hasn't moved on it's own other than a couple 10mph cruises around the 'hood since November? of last year!
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Nice old F body. Looks familiar. When you get to working on the Bird I HIGHLY recommend the IROC steering box and Guldstrand A Arm drop. I’ve done it to three first gen Camaros. Amazing difference. |
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Living in Nashville and going to California for a vacation? Unless there’s big swap meet out there it sounds backwards to me. :confused: |
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I've read about the f-body drop before, same idea as the Shelby drop I just did on the mustang. Hadn't heard about the iroc steering box... have to look into that. I have power steering now... is it a power or manual upgrade? Or can be done for either?
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The gen III IROC box is fast ratio, “high effort”. Assuming the Bird’s suspension is the same as the Chevy F body, then since you have P/S you should be able to use your existing pitman arm. The valve in the P/S pump should be reworked to boost the pressure and flow to the levels GM used in the 70s. A newer rag joint is required and you have to address lines as the box has the newer style o-ring seals. I make AN hoses when I do the swap. It’s around 2 ½ turns lock to lock and maintains the proper turning circle. |
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I was away for the weekend, but before I left on friday there was a package waiting for me.... GT springs and sway bar arrived. Had to put 'em in when I got it home tonight.
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Lookin good! Almost ready for that test drive and alignment...
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put the tires on i wanna see the ride height
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There's ummmmmm..........
... no passenger side.... Spindle and associated parts were primed last night. I'll paint them tonight. Should go together quickly as I have all the other parts painted and ready to go on. I plan on torqueing all the DS stuff tonight too to get that out of the way and get all the cotter pins in. I'm assuming the new springs will raise the car a little over the 50 year old shot springs, but hoping it's offset by the ~1/2" drop the Shelby drop provides. I hope it's within +/- 1/4" of where it was. I'll probably need to put some miles on it before it settles too. You also have to squish the piss out of the coil springs to get them back in the pocket with the outer cover on (wasn't about to take THAT off!) Crap, it just hit me I'm going to have to take my shock tower caps back off to put the export brace on :rolleyes: |
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The big brown truck stopped by today!
Custom ordered Pony Interior... can you spot what's "wrong" with it? |
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I had to set them in the car...
The kicker? Probably won't be able to touch any of it until June-ish? |
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So are you going to make a seat cover suit and go to the drive thru at McDonalds? :lol:
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Very sweet
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Passenger side started and sway bar going on. Itty bitty stock bar VS. big ass new bar.
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You have to compress the heck out of the springs to get them in.
Work got into the way of progress yesterday. Put in a 16 hour work day Wednesday... I hate it when work gets in the way of my hobby. |
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I had to get some stuff under the hood taken care of. I forgot the Export Brace had to go back on first before the shock tower caps could go back on.
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Cut up vacuum tubing keeps the shock tower braces from cutting into the A/C lines.
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The Passenger side went back together today...
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I love the brakes on these things.
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Once it's actually one the car you just:
1. Push the cylinders back and slide the pads in. 2. Put the cover back on. DONE! I wish more brake systems were like this. It makes taking the whole caliper off seem kinda stupid. |
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Kinda crappy, it was late out and dark.
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I just had to do one with the wheel on...
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Parts Pile...
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I plan on going back over everything tomorrow, making sure everything it torqued and cotter pinned correctly, and greased... then she'll be back on her own two wheels. I have an alignment set up for 3PM. Wohoo!
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Enjoy the drive , you've earned it.
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Getting aligned!
Edit... Stupid phone...I'll fix picture later. |
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So, apparently I can't edit that pic anymore... sorry.
She did get aligned and make it to a show today! I think the drop was too much. The PS is fine, but the DS sits 1/2" lower. It's OK for mild driving but I scrubbed a touch on a hard turn up a hill... I think I'm going to have to add coil spring spacers to get her back up to where she was. Not too big of a deal. I'll have to get it realigned again, but I kinda figured this would happen, so I paid for the "lifetime" one... I absolutely love the stance, but she's too low for the kind/amount of driving I do with it. I'm kinda pissed because I read thread after thread after thread on Mustang forums that the Shelby drop really only lowered the car maybe 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch, but if you were adding brand new spings compared to the 50 year old sagging ones... you could expect the "after" height to be about the same... yeah... mine dropped at least 3/4". That's all it took to go from no rub to rub. I'd like to raise the PS 1/2" and the DS 1" to level the nose out. |
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I've had the car for a couple years now, and have yet to see any other Wimbledon white 65/66's at local shows or just driving around... I saw TWO Wimbledon White 65-66 coupes and TWO MORE 65/66 fastsbacks at the show today. This one was still around after we ate so I took put mine next to it and took some pics...
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where did you get your UCA's and LCA's? Cost? Im tyring to nickle and dime it so lol
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I bought DORMAN parts. They supposedly try to use only good quality parts sources. My upper and lower CA's were Made in Taiwan, but felt/appeared just as good, even a little heavier than my stock units. My uppers were only $25 (I KNOW!) and the lowers were $32. Unfortunately, it looks like uppers for a 67 are $58 and lowers are $36. http://www.rockauto.com/ I hate the rockauto won't let you hotlink directly to their parts you found page... only the main page. DORMAN Part # 520396 DORMAN Part # 520105 |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
ahh gotcha. Thanks!!!
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