Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I cut out a big section of the extra crossmember and offset cut a couple of windows thru the keeper crossmember to run the line. This was all done with the bedside off since it gave much greater access, especially tucked into the corner of the garage. I’ll smooth the edges after the floor is removed again. No sense doing that on my back if I don’t have to.
Here’s some pics of the final product.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

The next step will be to add the vent line. I have some ideas but need to lift the bed and measure the vent tube on the sender. Yeah, I should have done that before the floor went on…..

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Nice job documenting your work. I like the way you solve problems. Being able to move heavy things by myself is a must for me!

Good luck, Rg

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

So, the vent is 5/8 :metal:

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

The instructions for the Tremec TKO state that you need to check the bell housing centering with a dial indicator. The spec is .005” max. There’s a couple of videos out there on how to do it. It’s not too hard to do.

My biggest surprise was how much the torque specs and pan alignment DO matter, significantly.

Also, clean the mating surfaces and the dowels with a wire brush. Add some grease or antisieze to the dowels. It’s clean enough if you can put the bell housing on and off with ease, and it goes flush to the block with minimal hand pressure.

The first time I measured, I just hand tightened the bell housing down and didn’t install the pan. My measurements were .005” out.
Next I eyeballed the pan alignment, hand tightened it, added the 2 bell to pan bolts and tried again. .009”!!!

FYI: The GM manual says to align the pan by using a straight edge on the rear of the block. I figured the bell housing would be a great straight edge.

Then I loosened the pan and bell housing, and lightly snugged the bell housing bolts. Then I lightly clamped the bell and pan together at the 2 bolt holes to align the pan. Then torqued the bell, and then torqued the clamped pan (center out like a Cyl head). Then I added the 2 bell to pan bolts and torqued them.
Now the measurement was .001”
Torques and procedures matter!

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

As always, I love your approach to coming up with solutions to make things work like they should. You are definitely right about a slow fuel fill being no fun! My solution to filling my rear mounted tank has been a bust. My issue is that my filler tube is basically horizontal as it goes straight over to the side marker light. Since I dropped my bedsides 4", I didn't have to turn up to get to the light like you did. I think that extra vertical section in yours is going to make the fuel drain into the tank like it's supposed to.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I sure hope you’re right. Did you run a vent also?
I’m running the 5/8 vent line up to the filler for pump shutoff. Hopefully that will work too. I will definitely post up what the results are.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Here’s my vent input to the filler. It’s not fancy, but it should do the trick.
It will get thread sealer upon final install.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I do have a vent tube, but not like your setup. I think what you are doing is the correct way to do it. Mine just runs to a breather that is mounted higher than the filler. My tube is also smaller, I think 5/16" or thereabouts.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I like how you're routing the filler hose to right in front of the rear post.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Fingers crossed

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Thanks, it seemed like the best unused bed area to occupy. I’ll have to make a cover box to hide it eventually.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I’ve been chipping away on the engine, but I’ve mainly been doing some house projects.
Here’s some pics.
Bearing clearances are all good.
Heads on and trunions upgraded, pushrods measured and installed.
Some nice old school orange on the cast iron.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

In the background of the above, you can see the core support. Not a lot to show there, but I can say that the Autozone/Carquest replacement radiator fits 4-core saddles perfectly. As expected, the Explorer fans still fit great.
I measured for the condenser and have one on order from Cold Hose. I’ll update when it comes in.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Got some more done this past week.
The clutch is in, the slave cylinder is shimmed and installed
The engine and transmission are sitting in the frame.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

The clutch setup was a combo of parts I learned about from the ls1 tech message board.
The flywheel is a NFW1050, for a early LS pickup
The clutch is a LUK 04-020, for a 70s BBC Corvette
The pilot bearing came with the bell housing. I bought it from Bowler
The throw out bearing/slave cyl is 910-25610 from Speedway.

Setup was fairly easy, one bolt comes out of the input retainer and a stud goes back in. It holds the slave from rotating.
The slave comes with .050 shims and the gap tolerance to the clutch fingers is .050-.100
I started with 3, it was too loose. Went with 5, and it was just barely putting pressure on the fingers. Went with 4 and got right at .050.
It was nice to do this on the floor. In the truck would have been not so fun.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Quoted for truth. That seems like it would be a 100 f-bombs trying to get the tolerances correct if you were trying to do it while it was installed on the truck.

Looking good!

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

That is an interesting throwout bearing design. The one on mine has a flange that bolts to the transmission. I'm curious to hear how you like that LS/TKO combo. My NV3500 is mushy and makes all sorts of noises, so I know I'll be in the market for an upgrade eventually.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Thanks, it’s getting there.
Even doing it in the frame with no cab and front clip would be harder.

Those stock hydro bearings have better mounting provisions, but this style works for lots of hot rod applications so it should be good.
I’ll definitely update when I finally get to the point of driving it.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Chipping away some more.
Exhaust is next. Time to learn something new.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Here’s some shots of the a/c compressor location with these Holley frame stands. I’d guess the Speedway setup would be the same.
It’s tight, but not terrible.
The fittings are from Cold Hose.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Learning new skills is the best part about this "hobby"

Keep it up

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I like the whole frame shot. It's good to take a step back and admire the progress once in a while.

That A/C compressor position looks good to me! I like that setup. I may be adding A/C to my truck eventually and I think I would copy you 100% on this one :)

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I'm diggin' your wheel and tire choice. :ito:

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Yes it can be.

I like that it makes use of the stock truck LS brackets. The aftermarket ones are too $$ for me.

Thanks, it makes for a hot wheels vibe.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

I’ve been chipping away at the exhaust over the past few weeks.
Of course there was a learning experience during my H pipe setup.
I mocked it up with a length of exhaust tube for the driveshaft. No, that’s not enough clearance for any amount of down travel.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Nothing says lesson learned like cutting apart your pieces and redoing them. At least my mock up beads were short. After this I just did fat tacks for fitment until I was sure of my clearances.
But now I have plenty of room. The rear of the DS can drop 4” before it contacts the crossmember and it shouldn’t ever touch the exhaust.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Speaking of driveshafts, I measured out what I would need and found 54-56” would probably work.
Conveniently, my Jeep buddy had a Police Interceptor Crown Vic he was parting out and the aluminum DS from it was a perfect fit. I just swapped on my yoke and put in a 1310-1330 conversion joint at the rear. Easy-peasy

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

After spring break in Arizona, I added my rear flanges to the H pipe section and took it out to weld up.
It did move around a little bit, but a ratchet strap took care of that. It had widened out about 3/4” at the header end.
You’ll notice that it isn’t laser straight, that is on purpose. I used the tolerance gaps in the joints to get the routing where I wanted it. I saved the bends for the back half.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

On to the rear half. This part took me a couple of weekends to do. I tried several routings and placements for the mufflers. The best in/out I could come up with was high inlet and center outlet with the mufflers vertical. The outlet was really the deciding factor since the shocks and diff housing left a fairly small window.
On the trailing arm end, there's a couple of inches clearance. It should be plenty, I used a straight edge to mimic travel and it is good to well past the bump stops.
The spans across the bed mount towers were helpful also for cross sill clearance.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

The first bend was pretty easy, it's just a U bend cut in half and flipped. The hangers are another stock Ford part. I'm using 3 per side. They're pretty stout and easy to work with. The metal rods are generic from Amazon. I made the bolt hole portion of the mounts from 3/16 flat stock.
It's always surprising how long these things take... This was a whole saturday, but to do it again would probably take 1/3 the time.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

What are the devices near the start of the pipes, before the "H" pipe? Cats or resonators?

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Flowmaster bullet type cats. I've heard they work well.
I like that old school exhaust smell for about 2 minutes, then I'm out. Too many years of working in shops I guess.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

The next round was a little more complicated. The pipes have to go over the rear, then the passenger side goes behind the panhard bar and the driver side goes in front. Then it has to clear the gas tank corners and go to the rear.
I started with the passenger side.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Then mirrored it on the driver side, just shifted aft a bit, and continued on to the back.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Then the passenger side.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Nice work, are you using a kit of misc exhaust pieces? or just buying what you need? also what size diameter are you using?

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Thanks. It's been an interesting process.
I bought the universal box of mandrel bends from Speedway. It's the 2.5" version.
I got their H pipe kit and also added the optional extra box of straight pieces they have for pickups. The H pipe was handy, but I haven't needed any of the straight pickup kit tubes.
The pieces all come with one end expanded for slip fitting. That was handy. I only had a couple of pieces to butt weld; at the rear downward portion of the axle kickup and the front S shape before the mufflers. Both of those sections got welded in my vise and then put back on the truck.

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

Thanks for the info. I was looking at those Speedway kit as well. Their Phx store/warehouses is actually a few miles away from my office, which is convenient.

What muffler did you end up using?

Re: ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is
 

The Flowmaster Flow FX. Those should be fairly mellow. We'll see.