Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

This would be a good idea. I'm a dealer for AutoLoc also.

http://www.autoloc.com/catalog/Keyle...ess-Entry-Unit

http://files.autoloc.com/img/product.../600/15610.jpg

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Wow,
I would never have thought about Ralley wheels on a truck.
I know I see them all the time on the Pontiac sites, the Ralley IIs are a fave for the 66-67 GTO-LeMans-Tempest bunch. I would like to see a full side shot of your truck with them on, I bet they look darn smart indeed !!

I have a kill switch on my Tempest, left of the steering column, up under the dash so that, even if you look up under there you cannot really see it. I have to do it by feel but I know where it is.... it is set for side to side on-off. Flipped to the p-side (or inboard) is on, d-side (outboard) is off.

I wanted to ask you about the tubing you ran your electrical thru to the back of your truck... how did you account for keeping water out of it (or are you even worried about that at all)? I imagine a firewall rubber grommett would do the job. I am thinking about doing this mod to mine as well. I am a big fan of neat and tidy.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks guys, I have always loved them. They never go out of style.

Is the PN KL400? I don't have power door locks. I need to read about the immobilizer. EDIT: I found this one that is an immobilizer. HF500


Thanks, it will be a while before another side shot. The front sheet metal is stripped off for now.

I installed an ignition kill switch in the 69 Camaro, I mentioned before, between the seat belts where the buckles clipped into the console. Nobody ever found it.

I guess there are several ways to keep water out of the tube. Silicon comes to mind. I'm not to concerned about the water. It will be driven on nice days. Unless I get caught in a storm.

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Hey man where did you find your pieces to make the rod? I like the idea of the hidden wires for the hood too. I haven't put mine on yet because I don't know how to clean it up....
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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I think I am going to tube my wiring like you did, but since this is going to be a hauler for my Temepest to Seattle area car shows there is a 100% chance of inclement weather... That is why I asked.
Am going to follow a lot of suggestions on this board for proper water drainage too. Will probably be another 10 years before I am ready to do a pristine frame off on my truck like you did.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

That would make sense considering the climate up there. ;)

Got a few small things done. I hooked up the PCV, brake booster, and dizzy vac line. Trying to make it look neat. I'm not digging the wire ties right now. It may something to dress up in the future.

It's been a while. If I have the PCV on the left I need a open breather on the other side correct?

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

looks good to me, and i would say yes to the open baffle, so you can pour oil in it.

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Oh
My
Gosh !!
Your transmission looks dusty !!!
The shame.... the scandal.... :lol:

Almost time for me to get down to the garage and put a wrench to mine, and stop day dreaming on all you other guy's builds...

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Love it :metal:

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Alan,, not being critical, but just wondering,, why did you leave the engine so far out in the engine bay. I guess I thought you were putting it up close and tight. Was there a reason or that is just where it ended up... ???

By the way your truck is looking great.. I have the same wheels on my 57. Looks real old style.

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You will need the open baffel for the long trips as there is always some pressure build up in the bottom of an engine and it needs somewhere to go. So as not to blow out the gaskets. I've seen it happen..

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Thanks!!

Yes, it needs a good scrubbing. I've got a leak at the dipstick tube that still needs to be fixed. It's driving me crazy with it getting so dusty in the shop. It's too hard to push back into the shop by myself. Just more of a reason to get it running. ;)


Back 4 years ago I didn't have any V8 perches and saw CPP offered some. I ordered them not knowing (I think) that it moved the engine forward. I just adapted to it. I don't think I would do it again.

BTW Thanks

I've heard of that before, thanks for reminding me.

No progress today, just hung out with the family. I almost got the wire tubing for the temp sensor on the left valve cover remade last night.

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great choice on the wheels alan look great

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x2:metal: Alan

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Thanks guys!!

Took my seats to the upohlstery and the hood to the blaster. Can't wait to see the seats done.
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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I got the temp sensor wire tube finished up again. I like it much better now. I didn't order a special connector for gthe sensor. I used a female blade connector.

Need some help. I have this port in the porportioning valve that I can't find a plug for. I say it's a 1/8" inverted flare. When I find 1/8" in the parts store it's too big. The parts guy was confussed as well and he owns the store.

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Alan it is an inverted flare , depending on what lines you are using you may have to get an adapter .. the one on the valve fit the 3/16 inch lines I used that I bought at the local NAPA store off the rack.. If you are using larger brake lines (and there is no reason to) you will have to call Earl's as they carry all the fittings you would ever need. NOT cheap but available.

I see that you used a different temp sensor... I have more than one in the part box.. Untill I found the one that worked correctly. llol

I ended up using a double bladed sensor as I was screwing it in the alumium intake and was worried about the ground...

Nice job on the tube.

Wish I had used the E carb.. these Hollies are so sensetive to set and keep set

Hey I like your work bench.. where did you get the top.. looks like a woodshop table top from school... LOL

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:metal:

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[QUOTE]:metal:[/QUOTEhh

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X2 :metal::metal:

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Nice and clean Alan.

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I really like how clean it ends up looking with all the wiring being tubed like that.
Nice work !!

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nice:metal:

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I second 57truckguy. I just plumbed my brakes on the '66 and that port on your prop valve fits a 3/16ths flare.

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Thanks for the advise on the brake fitting. All my line are in this is just an extra port I need to plug. I'll go back to the parts store and look again.

I'm still using the same temp sensor. I did remove the teflon and put some dope on it. I believe it was you that mentioned the teflon might affect the ground.

I got the table top from my Dad, no clue where it came from.

Thanks guys, I'm trying my best. ;)

I'll do some more searching at the local store, BTW thanks for chimming in.

Working on the interior door panels. Also got the muffler pipe for the upper water hose enlarged a little to fit the hose better.

Got the TV cable bracket for the carb and the cable bracket for the cable itself which includes the return springs. The bracket is actually a throttle cable bracket, but I don't see any harm in using as a TV cable bracket. The cable is routed higher that normal, but there is no interferrance. Am I wrong? When I move the throttle, the rod actually moves away from the TV cable bracket.

I also did a lot of reading on how to adjust the TV cable. If I read it right I held the throttle at WOT and pulled the TV cable out til it stops and tightened it down. TV 101 is a good read that I will read again.

The last 2 pics are a before and after.

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Dang,
Now I gotta go read that TV 101 link...
I didnt want to get this smart on this project :lol:

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:thumbs:

Things accomplished tonight:

Got a 3/16 inverted flare plug for the porportioning valve. Thanks guys for the help. I feel like a dummy. ;)

Replaced the "O" rings on the tranny dip stick. Hope that fixes the leak. Also rerouted it so there's not any pressure on the line.

Bolted the torque converter to the flex plate. then set TDC.

Ran spark plug wires. I thought I had bought some cut-to-fit. Instead I had some for a 70's corvette that ran under the manifolds. Wish I had gotten the cut to fit because there is more wire than I want. I'll try to tidy it up.

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nice progress alan, but you need to wash her shes dirty lol, j/k!! two questions, do you have a long tailshaft or a short for your 700r, and if you put your motor in the front holes what is the length of your driveshaft? center of u-joint to center of u-joint! reason being is i'm wondering since i had a 230 with a 3-on-the-tree if i just change the yoke out if the length would work or not! i have mine in the front holes now and this weekend i'm going to get under the truck and find out!

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i have two driveshafts a solid shaft and a two piece that i got from a friend that took it out of his 68 gmc that had a 5.3ls motor and a 4l60e trans, he went to a solid driveshaft!

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Dude, your tranny dip stick is just slick, what a cool idea there.

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:banghead:Alan,, the TV cable should bottom out just a tad before WOT as it will stretch with time and age.. or readjust it in every couple of months for a while, Guess which one I did.. DUD:Own:

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Hey Mcmurphy Lokar sells them every day.. Got one on my 700R4 also.. real slick/

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Thanks man, it is pretty slick.

I've got it adjusted to bottom out right at WOT. This tranny is used and so is the cable. I will recheck after a few runs. Thanks for the input. ;)

The family just got back from a trip to Cherokee NC and Gatlinburg TN. Here's a few pics of the trip. Stopped by Stars Cars in Gatlinburg they are the actual cars used in the movies. It was cool.

The General Lee was #6 and I also went to Cooters Place in Gatlinburg.

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More

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Great pictures Alan;)

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you gotta love the smokeys, are the old buildings in cades cove?

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:thumbs:

No, they are on the Roaring Fork motor trail in Gatlinburg. It's a 5 mile drive on a oneway road. It's awesome up there. It started raining half way thru so it cut our picture taking time in half. I wanted to go to Cades Cove. I went there as a kid and wanted my kids to see it. Maybe next time.

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Thats cool alan, I wish I had known about that car place when I was up there a few years ago. Im headed to boone this weekend to get the christmas tree. My arms need a break from block sanding the roof anyways.