2wd swap
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Recently got a 1982 2wd K5 jimmy
It's apparently been hit in right side hard at some point before me. Frame is junk since found a 83 4wd frame. Current state of confusion. And since we're into it this far. Planning on a 1-1-1/2 inch section of the crossmember some tube A arms and bags. Rear bagged 2 link Is it possible to move the crossmember forward much without getting into the steering components? BTW I'm really thinking these p-19 pins do more damage than good on these trucks. |
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Yes the bagged truck i helped a kid build was fine that way. Although some people do have to slide the box forward too.
Incase you did not know. 4x4, and 2wd steering boxes are different. Something about different angle of operation. |
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Tie rods on the bottom of the steering arm with a bumpsteer kit is the plan for that.
Or a obs spindle which would accomplish the same thing. As too the steering box I'm using our existing box. The donor 4x4 box was gone. |
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I'm not saying things won't play well together but I would want to keep things as consistent as possible. |
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Looked at a few Z ing threads. Not feeling that at all.
My 17 year old got this pos jimmy and a tig welder. So the possibilities are endless. |
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That isn't my issue with the Z my 68 was cut and stretched in like 74 I'm told. Frame would need cut twice. The z and then the core support. Plus the engine mounts are all different. Pass Mild section drop spindles Move the lower arms forward will achieve the look I'm after. Appreciate the info. This low low stuff is new territory Always been a clip 2 coils and a flip it on all my C-10s |
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Moving the entire x-member forward starts encroaching on the steering box/Pitman & Idler mounting centerlines. My dually has 3" spindles, a 1.5" sectioned x-member, & PB tubular 1" forward lower arms w/bags. Previously it used .750" forward GM a-arms w/coils (1 coil removed). |
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I wasn't sure about the x member or the A arms.
Just want to avoid the wheels back look. With the 1.5 section you did. Was the steering input shaft into the left upper arm. Looks like they might hit. |
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The driver side upper from a 63-72 or 73-87 HD truck will clear w/a small c-notch. The HD bushings have a smaller footprint/OD & will clear but the a-arms front 'leg' still gets close when cycling through suspension travel. A small notch allows the required clearance. Another option is to use a multi joint shaft assembly to clear. It would require a center bearing support. I did the notched x-member/notched HD bushing arm approach on mine as it's a cleaner look w/minimal extras (& recommended them to the people I sold notched x-members to). |
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We start cutting this weekend..
Can't wait to watch my son learn this stuff. He's more into the fabrication part than then the truck |
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Easier said than done.
But 1.5 inch section is cut and the kid is getting some filler down |
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Fixing my cut off wheel wildin.
I believe my kid is on his way. |
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Nothin' to it but to do it. I would agree he's getting it done.
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A slight dilemma. The engine stands are aligning weird
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I had to do spacers on my old '68 when I did my first x-member so there's that option. What about tweaking the flanges slightly? Could that help?
On that set-up, the notched x-member & MM towers used were from a Square & placed between the 68's rails. I used some aftermarket tubular MM towers & made spacers to make up the difference. Unfortunately, I never checked the fit of the stock Squarebody x-member/MM towers before I started the mods. |
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We didn't check them either.
Those brackets where laying on the floor of the blazer when we got it. If I vice gripped the top to the flange and pulled the bottom down with a C clamp it would come. But nothing lined up. We where mocking up the fit after bolting the crossmember down. |
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I havent had a problem with the towers not fitting when I sectioned a couple crossmembers. Assuming you did the crossmember correctly I would guess that the towers are off a different generation of truck. Did you try flipping them side to side?
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Flipping them made the mounts go sideways. @scoti We'll try that next if nothing else cooperates |
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Flipping them made the mounts go sideways. @scoti We'll try that next if nothing else cooperates |
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Unbolted everything let it relax.
Gave the top flange some attitude and it's a bunch closer |
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3/16 spacer was the answer.
Wouldn't cooperate with a ratchet strap pulling the rails together. And I have no idea how the nuts got doubled up like that?! |
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That should get it done.
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Saw this on Fakebook another way to snake around the top A arm.
Little hokey ish? But the idea is solid |
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That's what I mentioned previously in post #11. The 3rd joint & requisite bearing support anchor start making things busy. Some are absolutely necessary (tight R&P set-ups) but w/these trucks it's a straight shot between the column & box. I wanted mine to look clean & uncluttered.
Sectioning the area on the arm was the better option for my 'wants'. |
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Been on the hunt for a set of those. Upper and lowers.
Have a set of the lowers on my c10 I like the steel bushed pivot and slightly narrow at the pivots. My son's tig skills are getting better |
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That weld work on the wrench is cool. He should keep that so he can reflect on it one day when you're no longer around to tell him how proud you are of him. |
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@scoti
Could you help identify these swap meet drop spindles? The numbers don't cross reference to anything on the googler |
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OBS spindles would be my bet.
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Suppose they're the light duty 1" rotor version?
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This is surprising. Was planning on reaming up to squarebody ball joints
The ball joint is bigger on a obs than a squarebody. But the tie rod diameter is smaller by a bunch |
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Was going to go with choppin block arms.
The obs spindle was my band aid for the sectioned crossmember for the bumpsteer they create. Get some squarebody spindles and have the kid braze the tie rod ends shut and ream them from the other side.. Or a heim end kit. |
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Also.... OBS spindles came in an HD version as well. Lt. Duty= single cab trucks; HD = Ext cab & 454SS optioned single cab trucks. |
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According to my mics the c20 is bigger by a bit.
They where .950 on the lower joint taper |
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I've only read info on the swap & haven't done one myself. I just recall the info about the use of C20 lower arms being required so it's possibly the housing size that's the same & not the BJ stud dimensions.
I've wanted to put calipers on one of each just for personal reference but haven't. |
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