Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
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Here is the beginning of my effort to put together a cool back country travelling 66' K20. Right now I'm in a parts search and acquisition phase. Things like later style axles, power steering, update the brake system and bigger fuel behind the rear axle to start off. When I do the axle swaps I'll also rebuild the suspension. Then complete new wiring, interior work and more than likely Vintage Air.
That is the plan overview. The subject - Attachment 1808456 Right now I need to get the truck to drive and handle safely so I can actually use it. The first problem to be tackled is the worn out driver side lower knuckle bearing. So far I've gotten the knuckle assembly torn down and ready for the new parts, which should be here early this week. The upper bearing seems to be in good shape, but both will be replaced. Knuckle dis-assembled and ready for new bearings - Attachment 1808449 Dis-integrated lower bearing - Attachment 1808450 Along with this repair, I'll be setting up the power steering conversion for use with this closed knuckle axle. Then it will be an easy change over when the open knuckle axle goes in. More soon... |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Sub'd.
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This will definitely be a fun build to watch.
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Looking forward to this one. Saw your camper in you daily driver build. Looks awesome!
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Alright guys, thanks for following along with this one. I've been making some progress in my effort to get this truck safely road worthy.
I got the new knuckle bearing set for the drivers side installed and everything went in no problem. Knuckle re-assembled - Attachment 1814949 Brake drum and hub all re-assembled - Attachment 1814936 Now here is a pic of what I will be installing into this truck in the near future - Attachment 1814945 This is a Dana 44 and 14 bolt set from about 1976. My gearing and differential options will be greatly expanded with these axles. Parts cost should be way lower too. I also started my power steering conversion. The steering box is mounted to the frame with Capt. Fab's adapter plate. The provided 2wd frame template works well with the 4wd frame to get the steering box located in the right spot. Attachment 1814939 Drag link - Attachment 1814938 Interestingly I will be using the Ididit tilt column from my recently sold 62 C20(link in sig)for this truck.. The nice man I sold the 62 to is going with an Ididit column for an automatic trans and has offered the manual trans column back to me for use in this 66 K20. The 62 now resides in Phoenix, Az. so keep an eye out for it you guys in Phoenix. |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
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This week my new old Ididit steering column arrived from Phoenix. So I got to work on finishing the power steering installation using the Ididit column and the stock 66 steering wheel. When this column was in the 62, I had a fancy wood Grant three spoke steering wheel installed. I never really liked that steering wheel. To me it was too small in diameter and had too much "dish". I like the stock 60-66 wheel more.
On Ididit's website they say the stock 60-66 steering wheel will not fit on the column they sell for the 60-66 trucks. On the phone Ididit told me that some wheels fit and some don't and to just try fitting it. Well mine fit so that is what I'm using this time. Attachment 1817441 As with the last truck I'm sticking with Ididit's telescoping intermediate shaft and u-joints at each end. No rag joint. Intermediate shaft marked for cutting and fitment - Attachment 1817442 Shaft and u-joints installed - Attachment 1817443 The engine in this truck had only a single groove crank pulley. So I picked up a new double groove pulley with an add on single groove. The PS pump uses the third groove out. Had to ditch the 1/2 inch long crank pulley bolts for some new 3/4 inch versions - Attachment 1817444 The steering box, pump and hoses were all ordered for a 73 K20. The v-belt is a Gates 36 1/8 inch belt. The belt actually could be an inch shorter. That would keep the pump reservoir cap out from under the alternator. But right now it works fine. Attachment 1817445 |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
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The 73 K20 hoses are a very good initial fit. They could use a little tweeking with a bender. I wish I could figure out where I put mine.
Attachment 1817486 Bottom view of pump with mounting bracket - Attachment 1817488 Attachment 1817489 I used a simple bracket from Alan Grove Components. It utilizes the two threaded holes that were used for the engine mounts on the 55-59 V8 trucks, with the support arm going to a motor mount bolt. It all fit perfectly. Attachment 1817490 The end result is a huge success. It is now pinky finger steering effort. No leaks or noises. Woohoo! Next up is to figure out what do with the engine. It leaks from all over so it needs to come out to be re-sealed at minimum. But if I'm going to pull it, it probably should be gone through. Cost for a 327 re-build for torque or do a crate engine? Decisions, decisions. Inputs welcome. |
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Looks good . Can you give some info on steering arm modifications?
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Sure. It was shortened one inch and welded back together and then plated top and bottom.
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
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Time for an update.
For the last month or so I've been gathering parts and getting the truck ready for modification. I'm starting at the rear and will be working forward. The changes from the cab rearward will be a 31 gallon fuel tank, 73+ rear suspension and the 14 bolt rear axle. First task was to remove the bed. I built a head frame and used a cheap 2000lb chain hoist to lift the bed and drive the truck out from under it. Then it was set down onto my trailer. Attachment 1827309 Attachment 1827310 Truck back in the garage. Much easier to work on without the bed. Attachment 1827314 Attachment 1827315 |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Whats your plans for the old stuff you're removing?
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
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I'm really trying to keep this project as simple as possible and still meet my goals. I need this truck trip ready by May, so I'm going to mainly focus on mechanicals, electrical system and the interior of the cab. Not going to worry too much about cosmetics, although I will give the back half of the frame a cleaning and some rustoleum flat black.
Out goes the Eaton and rear suspension. Attachment 1827381 Attachment 1827382 I'm going with the 73-87 rear suspension to eliminate the nearly 6 inch tall lift blocks. And it's less expensive than rebuilding the stock setup. This should also give the proper spring pad width for the 14 bolt. Right now is the mockup phase to get the leaf springs at the correct height and angle. Then I'll set the axle in place to see how the pinion angle looks. I'm trying to keep pinion angle of the 14 bolt the same as the Eaton angle of zero degrees with the spring pad angle of about 6-7 degrees forward. Here is the rear hanger installed where it will remain. Attachment 1827383 Here is the front hanger clamped in place. There is a good bit of up or down adjustability here to get the angle of the spring set to where I think it should be. Attachment 1827384 Here is the whole assembly mocked up. The spring angle is 11 degrees and I'm looking for 6-7, so the front hanger needs to come up a bit. I still need to measure the spring pad angle to pinion angle on the 14 bolt to be sure of how much. Attachment 1827385 One thing I will say is that every fastener thus far has been fighting me all the way. The dis-assembly so far has been challenging to say the least. The complete opposite from the last truck. But I'm winning! |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
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I'm still trying to decide whether or not to use the 327 or move to a later 350 truck engine of some type. The numbers on the 327 show it to be a 1963 factory 250 hp 4bbl engine. Not too shabby. I don't know if it makes a good truck engine or not. I know they spin up pretty well but do they have good low end torque? I just don't know how these motors are set up. But I still have a few months to figure it out.
One thing I will keep initially is the Rockwell T-case. It seems to be in good shape. It shifts easily, doesn't make any bad noises and doesn't leak (so far). In addition to the front and rear axle swap, here are some of the parts that I've gathered for the driveline upgrades. Later bellhousing with the larger index hole. Attachment 1827407 That's it for now. Be back soon. Ranger Torque Splitter overdrive. Attachment 1827408 Fully rebuilt SM465 4speed. Attachment 1827409 And the 31 gallon baffled K5 blazer fuel tank. This will get an in-tank fuel for the fuel injection I'll be using. TBI most likely. Attachment 1827410 |
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Do you still need pics of the brake cables? You mentioned something about that in another thread. If so, I can post some. |
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I don't mean to tell you what to do with your stuff so please don't take it that way but some of that eaton stuff is getting super hard to find, especially from the backing plate out. I hope you will consider offering it for sale before it goes to scrap. |
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I hear you about the Eaton stuff. This is a good one and isn't going to scrap. I'll keep it around until the project is up and running.
If you would, please post back here what info you got from Inline Tube. |
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Where are you getting your cables made? I'm at a stand still until I either get a new one, get the old one freed up (been soaking about a week now) or put it back in to fill the hole for now so I can put the brakes back together. I hate to order that and it be wrong. I can get the wrong cable here in town. |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Contact this company and see what they say - Control Cables Inc (controlcables.com) or 562 949-0455. I here good things about this outfit. They do make cables from your old ones. In fact, I was going to try and use Inline Tube but I may just call these guys first. My experience with Inline Tube has also been underwhelming.
Like yours, mine are also frozen solid. |
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I'll post the photos in a few days |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
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The new rear axle and suspension mock-up is basically done. I didn't like the stock type 73-87 spring hangers. I instead went with 73-87 shackle flip hangers from Off Road Design. I used two sets of rear hangers to do the job using the shackle flip on the rear.
Here is one of the hangers used for the passenger side front end of spring - Attachment 1831218 Attachment 1831217 Rear hanger with the shackle flip - Attachment 1831219 Attachment 1831220 |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
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Here are some more pics from different angles.
Passenger side - Attachment 1831221 Driver side - Attachment 1831222 Inside of driver side - Attachment 1831223 Rear view passenger side - Attachment 1831224 Finished - Attachment 1831225 |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Looks good. Can this be done with the Eaton also or are the mounting pads on the axle housing different?
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
I did look into the possibility of using the Eaton with the newer style suspension. The spring pad width on the Eaton is 40 inches. The closest newer set up I could find would be for a 73-87 single wheel K30 which has a spring pad width of 40.5 inches. Off Road Design(ORD) sells these narrower hangers as well. So it would be a quarter inch difference on either side and could possibly work without moving the spring pads on the Eaton. But in the end, for my intended use as well as cost, the 14 bolt swap with newer style suspension made sense. The spring pad width for the 73-87 K20 14 bolt is 42.5 inches, which is what I'm using. The ORD frame hangers put the springs at the correct width for the K20 14 bolt
Also, when I was disassembling the stock rear suspension I found the rear hangers and shackles were trashed and unusable. The spring and shackle pins were frozen and would not come out. And there was a good amount of material worn away from the hanger and shackle from years of heavy loads and minimal maintenance. Funny thing though, the front spring pins came out easy and looking new. Bushings, pins and shackles are available but finding a good rear hangers could be a hassle. |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Good info as always thank you. I was looking at how to change just the rear springs without changing the hangers and everything else, since like most all other parts for this truck no one carries rear leafs. Do you think the newer springs will fit in the old hangers assuming they are still usable?
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No, the 73+ springs and shackles won't fit the 66 frame hangers. Even though the 66 and 73+ both use a 2 1/2 inch wide spring, the size difference of the hanger and shackle is substantial between the two. The link below shows a listing for 60-66 replacement springs with bushings included. LMC has the shackles, pins, u-bolts and other things needed if you want to rebuild to stock. https://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-327.htm After all these years your hangers will probably show some wear. But if all you want is a good reliable hauler then I would rebuild the rest and leave the hangers alone. For the way I'm going to use my K20, changing to the later style rear suspension seems like a good choice. |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Thank you again. Appreciate all your help.
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
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With the holidays over and my garage's electrical improvements finished, I figured it is about time to resurrect my thread.
So for starters I've got the rear fuel tank mock up pretty much finished - Attachment 1874462 Attachment 1874464 Attachment 1874465 Also started further dis-assembly in preparation for lifting the cab off the frame. I initially did not want to go as far as lifting the cab, but the frame on this truck really needs a good cleaning and paint job. I first removed the core support top covers and found remnants of the original paint. It looks like the truck came with the Fawn color - Attachment 1874479 |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Is the year application for that K5 Blazer fuel tank '87-'91?
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
jd,
I put that draglink together using part numbers provided by 61k10 in his build thread. I wrote them down but I'll need to go through my notes. |
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Subbed :chevy:
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Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
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Here's a quick update on the adventure rig.
Working from the rear to the front, all the mock up and test fitting is done for the gas tank, new parking brake cables and the axle. The 14 bolt got all new brakes and wheel bearings and was verified to have 4.10 ring & pinion. Then I took everything apart to clean and paint the frame to about halfway under the cab. Then put it all back together again. Here are some pics - Before shot Attachment 1893438 Priming and painting Attachment 1893441 Back together Attachment 1893439 With gas tank Attachment 1893440 |
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Continued the dis-assembly working towards the front. Got the transfer-case and cross-member out, the other two drive shafts, old wiring and old fuel system plumbing.
Got more frame area ready for painting and then removed the front sheet metal. Then the winch and bumper. The pto winch won't be going back in. A Warn 16.5 will take over. That old winch and bumper must weigh a good 250 lbs. The engine, trans, front axle and suspension come out next week. Then finish the frame, rebuild the front suspension and get the open knuckle 44 installed. Attachment 1893490 Attachment 1893491 Heavy old pto winch Attachment 1893492 Winch bumper. I'm thinking of re-using this bumper for the for the new winch. Attachment 1893493 For the transmission and transfer case I'm going to go with a sm465/205 combination with a cable twin stick shifter for the t-case I'm also likely to replace the 327 with a vortec or tbi 350. Depends on what I can find for good price. That's it for now. Be back soon. |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
I don't know what your budget is for an engine but Jegs has a smokin deal on brand new L31 350 long blocks with free shipping.
https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Per...570.1553913248 |
Re: Project 1966 K20 adventure rig
Good work so far on this thing. I would be tempted to rebuild and update the 327, one way to do it for decent cost would be buy a junkyard vortec with high miles for cheap and swap heads,fuel injection etc over onto freshened up 327 shortblock. I have nothing against a 350 but there is nothing wrong with a good running 327 either lol.
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