Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

So I've finally decided to get my 72 K5 Blazer back on the road. My plan for this build is to keep it mostly original. The current paint is the original dark olive that will be stripped to bare medal and painted the same color again.


Here is some pics. I started the tear down this past weekend.

Update 11/5/14 - Decided to go all out and do full frame off restoration. Enjoy!

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

looks like a great starting point... classic tube and inline tube offer replacement lines in stainless. Check with the board vendors first. Classic Hearbeat.. GMC Pauls...

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Thanks, mcmlxix. I'll check with them.

If anybody is interested in the winch, let me know. I don't plan on re-installing it. The cable will need to be replaced, though.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Nice looking rig, sidewinder winch....love it

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Update here..

Over the weekend I pulled the motor, tranny, xfer case out. There was years of caked on oil on the xfer case and transmission. I'm going to use my gas powered power washer and hook it up to the hot water line, but it only gets up to 140 degrees. It's better than just using cold water from the outside hose..

Today I'm taking the tranny and xfer case to the shop to have them go through and rebuild them. The xfer case might not need and work.. There was no play on either yokes.. Usually those things have a lot of play if they are old and worn out. If it doesn't need a full rebuild, I should be able to save some money.

The guy Im using is going to rebuild the transmission for $495 and it includes a new torque converter. What stall converter should I use or what are most guys running? (the truck is not lifting and I think the stock gearing is 3.07) The motor is going to have about 340HP, 375 LB TQ and the meat of the power will be in that 1800-5000 RPM range.

The radiator needs replacing, too. The inside is rusted and the water coming out of it was filth.. The water coming out of the engine almost looked like oil, that's how bad it was.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

The engine I ordered is coming with an electric fuel pump.. My question is.. I plan on ordering the orginal pre bent fuel lines from GMC pauls, but since it's an electric fuel pump, I have a feeling the original fuel lines wont line up because from what I understand the electric fuel pump has to be in a different location.

Can anyone confirm this for me? If the original pre-bent ones don't work. what are my options to run SS fuel lines?

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I dont know much about elect. pump mounts, but, cant you cut out a section of the fuel line and mount it on the frame rails. Would be cool to use AN fittings if that is what is on your pump, than you could flare fuel lines and use barrel sleeves and nuts.

Nut and sleeve go on first in the proper orientation, then flare....dont ask how i know:lol:

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Since it's a new motor I feel more comfortable running all new lines.. The gas tank has a bunch of sediment and is really old. You should of seen the crap the came out of the water pump when I had the motor on the engine stand. I spun the motor and the fluid that poured out literally looked like oil, but it was the radiator fluid... After I saw that, I'm going with all new lines, hoses, etc..

I think what I'll do is just make my own. I have a tube bending tool and my brother has done them before so I think I'll just go that route.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

this is the pump that I'll be using- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p60430

Not sure how good it is, but the guys who are building the motor insisted that I use an electric fuel pump and this the one they are going to provide me.

Re:Heater and Ac tubes that run behind the firewall
 

I took off the heater and Ac box /core last night and found the internal part of tubes that run inside the firewall rusted. I was wondering if these parts can be replaced. I couldn't find them on LMC. I'd rather not have to replace them, but since I'm running all new hoses and tubing with my new engine, I would hate to see whatever crap is inside there running through my new radiator and engine.

I'd be curious to hear peoples opinions if they should be replaced or just run with what I have.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Update..

Taking all these parts to get Steam Cleaned so they'll be ready for the powder coating.

Leaf Springs new ones or keep them?
 

So i'm debating whether or not to replace the leaf springs or just put in all new bushings.

Keeping them putting in new bushing will save a me a lot of money.. Do leaf springs go bad? I'm sure they do depending on how they were used, but is there a way to tell?

I'm new to all of this so if my questions sound like an amateur, that's why.

Thanks!

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

That pump is for a 5/16" line for a 4 cylinder diesel, 3/8 would be the size you need.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

@sockalaminski - Thanks for pointing that out.. I'll have to check with the guys at West Coast Engines about that.

Re: Update
 

Spent the day pulling out the front axle, brake lines, fuel lines and leaf springs. I ran into trouble with one of the bolts on the springs. I was able to get the nut off, but the bolt refuses to slide through. The other side slid out, no problem.

Any ideas how I can get this bolt out? Anybody else run into this problem. see pic below.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Nice Blazer! you are making great progress. IMO the springs are still good, replace bushings and check for broken leave/s. Frozen bolt soak with PB blaster or heated up with a torch, you may be able to use a propane torch to loosen it up and pound it out with a hammer.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Air chisel with a punch on it will help as well. Or it you have a cutting torch, just cut it off. They can be really stubborn sometimes.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Just my opinion but a good mechanical fuel pump would make your install a lot easier, look original and allow the use of the prebent SS lines. For your application, there is no benefit to run electric unless the block doesn't have provisions for it. I like the safety of the mech pump. It cuts off when the engine does.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I'm with you on that one.. The electric just complicates things and you are right about it looking more original with a mechanical fuel pump. Any recommendations on a good one?

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I have used the Carter street pumps with great success. I had one on a 600+ hp big block and never needed more. Everybody always wanted the chrome Holley race pumps but the never seemed to fit really well with the fuel lines.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I used this grinder to cut the bolt off from both ends. Took a few minutes but it did the job.

I spent the next 5 hours underneath the truck with a high pressure steamer, degreaser, and lots of elbow grease to get all the crap that's been sitting on the underside of the bed and insine/outside of the frame rails.. Actually cleaned up real good.

If I had it my way, I would just take the body off the frame, but I have no place for it.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

ops. posted the after pics first..

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Thanks! I took a grinder to this morning. I've decided to use the same leaf springs and replace the bushings.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

That's clean enough to eat off of. Did you have the factory asphalt undercoat on there?

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I'm not quite sure. When I was under there, I thought it was all oil and grease build up, but after scraping some of it off, it definitely looked to be like some kind of coating possibly.. Then, I got worried that maybe I should leave it on there, but in order for me to really clean off the all oil/grease I needed to get it all off.

Stage 2 of my build will be next year and that's when I will take the body off the frame and have it painted, probably get the underside coated to protect it.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I'm so jealous of the underside of your Blazer. If I did that to mine I would probably see the inside. One day maybe....

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

If you're not going to paint or undercoat until next year, You should epoxy or etch prime and seal that underside. The raw steel will have a nice layer of surface rust on it otherwise.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

@Dutchmanz - haha.. I definitely lucked out on this K5. Before this one, I had a 70 K5 that was rusted from the back of the truck bed to front and also above the windshield. I had it in high school and then when I went off to college, my junior year, my younger brother just got his license and within 2 weeks of driving he totaled my blazer. He crashed into a light pole and pretty much destroyed the whole front chassis to where it was un-repairable.

I managed to get 8K from the insurance and the truck back for $300. I parted it out for another 4K. After I graduated, I wanted to get another K5 and I found this one.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

That's a good idea. So I have a question... Has anyone ever used a Air Needle Scaler?

I'm going to be painting my axles using Master Series AG111. I want to get it to bare metal, but I don't have the option of using a sand blaster.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

That's how I cleaned the underside of my '71. Also why I was jealous to see the result of steam cleaning. I spent a good 40 hours under the cab before I got it all off. The needles will leave little impressions if you use too much pressure but should give a good result.

Re: removing the rear drag link?
 

I'm really struggling to remove the rear drag link from the axle. I was able to remove the long steering rod (not sure if that's the correct name) with no problems.

Is there a special tool for removing this? I tried the BFH and the socket over the nut, but it wont budge.. I'm trying to remove each individual piece from axle so I can prep them for paint.

Re: Updating here
 

ok, so I was able to remove the rear drag link from the pitman arm.. I went to Carquest and rented a Spindle Nut removal tool, for FREE! All you have to do is put a deposit down and when you return it they refund your money.. pretty cool, oh and I can use for up to 30 days..

So I removed everything on the axle except for the ball joint knuckles. I was kind of over removing ball joints at that point. It did make it a little more challenging for sanding but I think I was able to hand sand in and around those tight areas..

When I was at Carquest, I picked up about 7 different size steel wheel wires for an electric drill. It worked pretty good, but next time i will haul the axle somewhere and pay someone to sandblast it.. I think I spent a total of 16 hours prepping this axle.. It had a ton of grease, rust, corrosion.

Here's a pic before the first coat of primer and one with the first coat of primer. I'm going to put one more silver primer coat and then finish with a top coat of chassis black gloss.. I used MasterCoat .

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Got home from work and painted the front axle.. The paint has a foul odor... Good thing my neighbors didn't come outside while I was painting. I didn't noticed the smell until I removed my respirator.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I used a bench vice to remove the center bolt from the leaf springs. I'm taking them down to the same place that's doing a lot of my powder coating to have them sand blast, along with my drive shafts, skid plate bar, steering rod, drag links, etc..

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

I dont know why my picture keeping posting sideways. I certainly didn't save them to my computer like that.

Went to work on the front part of the frame
 

So this weekend I stepped it up and used the angle grinder with a 6 in wire wheel and just went to town on the frame.. The got it down to bare medal as best I could. Then I used this Medal prep from Master Coatings which then leaves this zinc phosphate coating. I let that sit for a couple hours and then I did 2 coats of the silver rust preventive primer followed by 1 top coat of the gloss black. Pics are from before and after with each step.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Hopefully these pics show right side up this time

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Doing an update here with lot's pictures.. I've been busy cleaning, sanding, and painting. The Master Coat series http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/
is a long process. After all the parts are cleaned you start with the metal prep that they provide in their kit.. you can wipe or brush it on. After you do a couple coats of that you let sit for 2-3 hours. This leaves a zinc phosphate coating and cleans the parts really well.

The next step is to apply the silver rust preventive primer..requires 2 coats with 3 hours minimum between each coat. The final coat is the gloss black top coat.. I used a brush for everything. I think if I had a spray gun it would be much faster and easier to apply, but I think the results came out pretty good. I'm satisfied with it.

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Updating with more pics

Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
 

Zinc Phosphate coating