Monitor Barn Garage Design
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I'm working on a design for a 42' wide 40' deep garage in the style of a monitor barn that could accommodate an RV in the center, two trucks/vehicles on either flanking lean-to side, and a small mezzanine. The doors would be 10x8 (x2) and 10 x 14 out front and a 6' wide 8' tall example along one side. Outer wall height 10' and just over 12' height under the mezzanine.
The staircase isn't the best use of space but not sure how else to play that without moving it outdoors. Any thoughts/feedback? I should probably add a small side entry door and lose/raise the front window to accommodate a lamp over the center door. |
Re: Monitor Barn Garage Design
I would put 9 foot tall doors in it. 8 foot is pretty short.
Jimmy |
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Looks good. I think the stairway location makes sense. My guess is you have enough room for the outdoor light with the front window as is: I'm picturing either a sodium vapor or an old "gas station" type fixture (picture is kinda small but I just added those to my barn).
K Sidebar: Funny Story - I was working with a friend of mine on the GMT800 air induction system. Around about that time he was thinking of building a barn and was looking at different architectural styles, trying to decide what he wanted it to look like. We had to walk over to talk to one of the other engineers, a young lady, who evidently had horses, judging from the number of framed photographs she had sitting on and around her desk. Tom asked her "are these your horses?". She answered to the affirmative and launched into a long narrative about each one. Obviously she was pretty proud. Without missing a beat, and without prompting, both me and Tom responded in unison: "Nice barn". (lol) K |
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Hi Keith. Am thinking of the same style lamps that you have. Here’s a mock-up of the changes. Thanks for sharing. I may nix the side door awning.
That’s funny |
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Looks good, and quite jealous of it. I would nix the side door awning, use PVC for the trim around the doors so you don't have to deal with rain splash rotting out everything from the bottom. I would also consider putting the stairs out side... Unless you just absolutely don't want to do that, but it eats up a bunch of area inside the garage. Helped a buddy build a large 3 car with an apartment over top and he was going to do stairs inside, until he laid it out and saw how much room it really took up. Having a set outside made it a more direct access without a bunch of turns so moving stuff in and out was also nice. What will be above the center bay? Will you have plumbing out there? If so you could always put a half bath under the stairs if you kept them inside and then some storage I guess.
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I completely agree the stairs eat up a bunch of space. I've wonder if a partially folding/mobile segment could be incorporated that would swing the lower stairs away for more clearance. Outside stairs would be nice especially with a porch that could shelter some additional storage for say kayaks or canoes. Depending on where this goes that might be the route I take.
The center bay ceiling would be largely open to let light inside. The mezzanine could potentially be extended forward more. I'd love to have plumbing but not sure that's in the cards given whet I imagine to be the hassle of connecting to the septic tank and plumbing a supply line from the house. I should probably plan for drains in the floor though. Any suggestions on finishing the inside walls? Sheetrock would be the default but are there other options? Old barnwood is plentiful here and would make a nice accent. |
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This is the exact same style barn i am hoping to build someday. I have a antique spiral stair case i was going to use for the loft and then add 2 - 4' french doors for the loft on the back of the barn for hoisting large objects into the loft.
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I'd think that would be a great garage to put your pickup, rv and cars in but may not be the best design to use as a working shop where you intend to do a lot of work on vehicles.
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Having water out there would be nice if you plan to work on stuff, just for a slop sink and a hose if nothing else. My pull in barn has water and it's easily a 150-175 yards or more from the well tank in the house and I have plenty of flow to run the garden hose. You could also easily do a small homemade septic system for a single toilet, even just a 55 gallon barrel and some gravel would be enough in most cases. But that also depends on if your neighbors or the county is going to come snooping around. The outside storage and a nice deck would also be a plus, I always like a good deck, a hangout space etc. As far as finish for the walls, you could do metal cladding drywall. Barn wood would be sweet, but you'll need A LOT, and a good way to attach it as it'll probably be a little on the thicker side, would make a really cool accent wall in the shop though. Definitely do some sort of insulation, even if you're not going to run true HVAC, it will make it more manageable to regulate with fans and a wood stove if needed. |
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Very nice barn! How about you poke the stairs out of the back wall and enclose them? Then put the air compressor under them. Quieter and out of the way.
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Thanks for the continued comments and suggestions. I'm taking them under consideration and hoping to have a final draft that can be farmed out for quotes here very soon. I'm told that lumber prices may be starting to fall. Would really like to have something up ahead of the coming snow.
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Out of curiosity why is the middle door taller then the outer 2?
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Ryan I can't throw a rock around here without hitting an antique barn. A neighbor said I better take more photos of my truck in front of his because it's about to collapse.
Ziegel - the larger center bay would hold an RV or accommodate a lift I farmed out the plans for estimates. |
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I would include the drains and conduits for a sink and bathroom even if you don't plan on initially including one. Simple and cheap to include before the slab is poured. Expensive and PITA to add after the pour.
While running the electrical, include conduits for Cat 5/6 cable for Internet plus an dedicated 120V outlet for a computer/switch. Again, easy to add during construction, hard later. If you go with metal siding and roof, you may create a no cell phone space inside. Might plan on where to put security cameras in case those become needed at some point and run conduit to those places. Might include several outside outlets for battery chargers and block heaters for vehicles stored outside. |
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I’ll definitely keep those ideas in mind, thanks. A wall safe would be useful too.
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From experience the bathroom and sink idea above is a great one.
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Anyone have experience with exhaust outlets that might allow me to run a car in the garage during the winter if need to test/repair issues like hot water valve for the AC?
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They make a flapper/cover you put over a hole in your garage door and run an exhaust hose out of it. It's the simplest and cheapest way. You can get expensive and fancy with full on exhaust fan system like we have at work... but it's noisy and annoying, we crack a door and run a hose out the door. Have a CO monitor close by to ensure you're not making problems for your self.
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Get 2 different brand CO detectors. Just read an article about Amazon having to recall a bunch of detectors due the the Feds finding the detectors failed to sound an alarm at the trigger point. If the winds there are anything like the winds here, you have a 80% chance of your exhaust vent being on the upwind side any time you are in the shop.
Have seen enough "families die due to CO poisoning from generator" stories to figure out that CO is sneaky and always looking for a way to get inside where you are. |
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Finally broke ground this week. Need to settle on the colors soon. Thinking typical red for the walls and “galvalume” on the roof, which will patina over time.
I’ve since added an additional entry door adjacent to the small side roll up door and may extend the roof ridge out slightly over the gable similar to this pole barn example and which seems common on local antique barns. |
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Wow, that's going to be really nice.
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Thank you - I'm excited. Wondering if a concealed fastener design on the roof panels is a better way to go long term versus exposed fasteners.
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Wow, nice.
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I'm very happy for you that you have broke ground and are under way. What do the non exposed fasteners look like? I don't think I've ever seen any buildings built with them around here. I've helped clean up a lot of damaged buildings here the last few years. Exposed fasteners are fairly simple for repairing the sheet metal. But non exposed would be better sealed IMO especially with time?
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Thanks again guys. Ryan that's helpful to hear. The concealed fastener option and standing seam option are more expensive than the 29g exposed fastener classic ribbed panels originally budgeted so I might pass. Here's an example of a concealed panel design: https://www.metalsales.us.com/produc...tempra-series/
If you go to that website and select Industries>Residential>Color Visualizer>Explore Sample Projects, you can see the gamut of panel style and colors. I'm trying to emulate the color scheme of a neighbors antique barn. |
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Wow that is going to be a really nice barn! I am in the process of building a house and am trying to emulate older farmhouse styling and techniques on it as well. We just recently had the roof installed and went with the exposed fastener style. The pluses were its quite a bit cheaper than the standing seam style roof, and it actually matches traditional farmhouse styling better than the standing seam. Fastener technology has improved greatly so there's not as much worry anymore about these leaking. In the past this was a concern.
Negatives are that you have to replace the fasteners every 10 years and the panels seem more prone to "oil canning". Our roof is brand new and was installed in the winter. With the increasing temps I can already see some waviness in the flat areas. This can be improved by choosing a profile with more ridges or a thicker material. Overall, I'm happy with our roof. |
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Looking at the photo of the site works, just be sure to get the contractor to ensure there is a good amount of drainage slope away from the building.
It looks like the land slopes down towards the position where the photo was taken, meaning there needs to be a drainage slope at the other end of the building where the soil surface seems higher. Great building design....enjoy your project.... :chevy::chevy::chevy: |
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Good deal. Here’s one of my neighbors antique barns - aiming to mimic the colors. There’s a galvalume-appearing standing seam roof that uses white trim and classic barn red.
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Pete, is that roof original for that barn?
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There was a tradition of nailing a sapling tree to the peak of a barn once the frame went up. Here’s a photo of a local barn raising that shows just such an attached sapling. |
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We need a trucks with barn thread maybe.
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The reason I asked was I don't remember seeing original old barns up there in WI with tin rooves. Most were shake shingles then tar based shingles. My Grandfather grew up on a dairy farm near Rhinelander. They had a cheese factory and Grandpa had to go pick up milk jugs and deliver them growing up. He had some stories. Anyhow, he used to drive me around all over up there showing me old farms he delivered to. I'm sure most of those old barns are gone now unfortunately. You best get you a sapling to keep tradition. Do you want to start the truck barn thread. This will get side tracked in a hurry. :lol:
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Nice! Can't wait to see the progress and the finished product! I'm jealous!
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