The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

The shop driver’s coming in the morning to pick up the motor. I’ve stripped off all the unnecessary stuff off the long-block, leaving the pan and valve covers. I’m securing it on a pallet tonight.

I’m giving the old 3-speed away, eventually, but I’ll give you guys a shot at picking it up first. The clutch assembly looks in pretty good shape, so feel free to PM me if you want it.

If not it’ll go on Craigslist.

10 working days on rebuilding the motor and I’m having him do just about everything - anything that’s not practical for me to handle. So two Saturdays from tomorrow I’ll have her back.

The T350 goes out Wednesday for a complete run-through, with a nice shift kit and a B&M pan. I’ve got a brand new HD radiator, shroud, all new plumbing and kits for all my wiring under the dash that the thief butchered.

I’ve got about 75 hours in the project so far. :chevy:

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Post some pictures after you get your 283 back, I love the 283 motor so much because they are as tuff as nails! they were in production from 1957 to 1967.:chevy:is actually one of the best motors chevy built:metal:..

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Will do. This is kind of exciting and I’ve been saving for it for a long time.

I just want to make this as clean as possible and reliable. This will be my daily driver. Driving the Chevelle now and leaving it parked anywhere makes me neurotic.

I’ve got some big Thrush mufflers off the Chevelle that ended up too loud, so I’m putting them on the C10 with some flared tipped chrome units, with inserts, on the ends - both exiting in front of the rear wheels.

Eventually (after I put some money into new rear gears - for the freeway) I want to mount my fat T/A Radials on some chromed and slotted Rally wheels with little chrome hub caps.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

What are you planning for the rebuild? I'm toying with building my 283 or just getting something... like a 327.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

New Parts: Pistons, Moly Rings, Rod + Main Bearings, Cam Bearings, Timing Chain and Gears, Camshaft, Lifters, Oil Pump, Oil Pump Drive, Gaskets, Brass
Freeze Plugs.

Machine Work: Block = Clean, Magnaflux, Bore, Deck, Power Hone
Connecting Rods = Clean, Check for Straightness, Hone Big Ends
Crank = Clean, Grind, Chamfer Oil Holes, Micro Polish Heads = Clean, Magnaflux, Pressure Test, Install New Guides and Hardened Exhaust Seats, 3-Angle Valve Job, Mill Bottom, Grind Valves, Set Install Height, Set Spring Pressure, Assemble with New Seals, Vacuum Test.

(Eddings Engine Rebuilding Inc.)

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

I’ll be blocking up the engine on 2x4’s after work today - on a pallet - to support the motor during transport. I should have bought my 3rd engine dolly - but ran out of time. I’ve got a 327 on one and a 283 (original from the Chevelle) on another.

Any ideas on securing this motor properly?

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Cut two 2x4's at 15 degrees and transferred the bolt pattern from the water pump mount points and drilled two 1/2" holes - then put two 3" long 3/8-16 bolts into the holes. Front "legs" done. Then I used the hoist to support the block level and cut two 4x4's. Straped the hole thing to a new pallet and I'm ready to go for the shop pick up of the engine at 8AM tomorrow!

:metal:

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Big Yellow Taxi came and took my Baby away.

Well, it wasn't exactly a taxi - it was a Toyota pick-up and it was black. The '283' is off to the shop for 14 days. Now I've got to get on the stick. T350 to the tranny shop, new coolant lines and cast pan included.

Does anybody have any experience with the old mid-60's style canister oil filters? And can they be modified to run a regular spin-on filter?

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

There is an adapter you can buy to convert to a spin on oil filter. Mr Gasket used to make them. I'm not sure if they still do or who else makes them....a quick search at Summit or Jegs should find one.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

I think this is what you need. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3337 I will try the picture and see if it works..

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

OMG!:metal:

That's it - exactly what I need!

Thanks mucho! Mac.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

I’m continuing with the detailing of the C10’s engine compartment, while the engine’s out for rebuild, and the T350 transmission is going to the rebuild shop tomorrow.

Parts are starting to arrive now - via UPS and I’ve got to dig my engine stand out and find my ‘Grade 8’ bold set. I’m going with flat black for the sheetmetal under the hood and actually thinking about gloss grey for the engine - just to be different.

With chrome timing cover, valve covers and Edlebrock triangle air cleaner - with a black distributor and grey ignition wires - it should be fairly trick, no?

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Unless that filter adapter kit is different than most I have seen you need to run the stock check valve under it to make the filter work right.
It sounds like you are going to put together right and make a nice driver out of it.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Good catch - I'll make sure. Thanks.

Mac.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Friday night I'm going on Craigslist with the 3-speed tranny, bell housing and clutch assembly - if none of you guys want to come to Huntington Beach to pick it up - for free. Just saying. ;)

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Ask the machine shop for a filter adaptor. I am sure they can get you what you need.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

MAC not sure if it too late or not but have you concidered a 700r4. I promicie you will be 100 times happier. The deeper first gear and overdrive makes driving our trucks MUCH better. If I had a 700r4 insted of the th350 I probably wouldn't of done my 5.3 swap so quick...

Graham

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

I believe you, Graham, and I’ve heard that elsewhere.

Just that I’ve already got this T350, had it running in this same vehicle previously - behind a straight six - and I already own it. For the $450 to freshen it up and another $100 for a deep-dish pan, the cost is hard to beat.

I’ve already projected about $3,500 to get this ol’ girl back on the road - for everything, including new springs in the front, new brakes, new radiator, new exhaust, etc - so my budget’s screaming already.

But I will take it under advisement. ;)

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Found this:

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...kit/index.html

Will go to NAPA Saturday and have them line me out on the conversion. :metal:

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Napa is where I got mine from when I had the 283

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

:(

Well - just found out the block is cracked in the ‘283’. Lucky I’ve still got the old motor (original) from the 65’ Chevelle as a rebuildable back-up. Eddings is coming in the morning for my second motor, and luckily, it’s on an engine dolly.

At least I won't have to worry about the oil filter adaptor issue any longer.;)

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

And the price of scrap is still high enough to offset the cost a bit.

As for crating the engine. When I had the machine work done on my old six I cleaned and stripped it myself. Put the block, head and crank in the trunk of my Bonneville and took it to the shop. Kid at the shop stepped outside to unload and asked where the engine was. I thought he was going to have to change his skivies when I told him.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

:lol:

Funny story, Fred. In my case the ‘307’ heads are coming back to me and the vendor’s picking through the parts he can use and scrapping the block and intake manifold (both of which are severely cracked - off to the smelter.

The shop’s sending his truck down this morning to pick up the original motor that came out of my 65’ Chevelle. If that goes up-side-down then I’ve got a stock ‘327’ requiring mucho work and if that fails - I’ve got a ‘350’ in pieces - requiring machining only.

I hope to actually drive my C10 again someday. ;)

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

And here I have a drop in running 5.7L

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

What kind of cam are you putting in it? I would suggest staying mild, something like a HO 305 Camaro cam. Ask the machine shop, but those small engines do not like a lot of cam, won't make much vacuum for power brakes if you do. HO 305 cam is like 403 in and 415 ex. I forget the duration and lobe seperation, it is slightly bigger than a stock 350 cam which is 390 in and 410 ex. Are you running a 2 barrel carb? How do you crack an intake manifold? Does this guy build hobby stock race engines? Old stock Chevy 2BBL intakes are worth bank to these guys for some reason. I swapped 3 of mine for some cast iron 4BBL intakes for Qjets and the guy was practically overjoyed to get them. Not worth much to me, I would rather have the Qjet and drive the primaries most of the time and still have the ability to tromp on it if needed.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Got the manifold back today - when the shop owner drove down to pick up the back-up '283'. The crack was right at the water neck. Typical hack (the guy that took my truck) and he'd over tightened the 3/8-16 bolts on the thermostat housing. What a schmuck. Anyway - good catch on the cam - and yes, we're going for just a minor bump above stock, for the sake of the 2-barrel's economy. About 75% of Eddings rebuilds are close to street-stock and the rest are marine and HP stuff. They have a heck of a reputation here in the Southland. It will all be good - in about two Saturdays.

On the engine compartment front: Finished the painting and detail today. Took all the wrapping off the wire looms and redid it with 3-M Friction tape - old school to the max. Then I coated it with Performix 'Liquid Tape'. Looks like showroom quality now. Can't wait for the new engine struts and motor mounts to arrive next week by UPS. Took 30 hours of scraping, sanding, primer and flat black to get the sheetmetal back to a decent condition. The amount of engineering that went into the assembly is phenomenal - even for 64/65 and the rust was (thankfully) very, very lite. Tomorrow I'll secure the wire looms with S/S clamps and take the idiotic clutch pedal assembly off. One day at a time.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Engine compartment is complete - waiting for the powertrain.

Picked up the T350 automatic yesterday and the new aluminum pan holds 3 quarts of fluid!. Painted it flat black last night, after masking everything off.

The engine towers and motor mounts arrived yesterday, and despite spending well over $200 I think it was worth it - the set looks perfect.

The engine builder called and asked what I wanted to do with the heads from the cracked motor and the other various hardware Monday night. I told him to keep it and he said the second ‘283’ (the one out of my Chevelle) was torn down and cleaned - getting ready for mag. Hopefully that all went well yesterday.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

If you are keeping the 2 barrel you might want to plug the exhaust heat riser passages that go to the cast iron base of the carb. Drill them out till they clean up. 3/8 if I remember correctly, then tap and plug with 1/4 pipe allen headed plugs. Thread in till flush with top of the intake. This prevents the vacuum leak that developes when the base gasket blows out from the exhaust pressure on the base of the carb. Many people with early Chevys that had 2 barrels wondered why the car (or truck) suddenly started running bad. Usually this was the answer, the gasket blows out and causes a huge vacuum leak and acts like a giant EGR valve.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Good catch, justcuz. Thanks. :metal:

Mac.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

You'll never guess how I know this!:lol:

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

I think I can - but tell the story anyway. ;)

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Tackled the removal of the clutch pedal assembly last night. Kind of a pain - but got through it.

Recap: The guy that took my truck back in February - for some unknown and illogical reason - took out my six and its T350 automatic and threw (literally) in a ‘283’ and a junky old 3-speed manual. I’ve now got all of that garbage removed and disposed of accordingly.

So anyway, I get under the dash and remove the clutch pedal’s return spring, go to the other side of the steering column ‘tower’ and see this bent and rolled "clasp" (for lack of a better word) on the end of the shaft that the pedal hangs from. No cross-bolt is holding it and only a bent nail is holding the connecting rod that runs through the firewall.

Not knowing any better and doing a quick eyeball of the factory assembly manual, I take a mungus screwdriver and pry the clasp off - after removing the nail that held the vertical rod, which let if fall to the driveway. I smacked the end of the spindle rod with a hammer and then drove it out with a punch.

Piece of cake.

Now here’s the odd part: The brake pedal didn’t come loose. In fact - I think because the truck’s got a power assisted brake unit - the pedal’s connect to it, instead of the stock location.

Is this the reality?

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

I could be wrong as it has been a while, but I think all the brake pedals were the same. It had a hollow shaft and if it was a stick shift the clutch pedal went through the brake pedal and was held on with a flatwasher/circlip on the throttle pedal side. I think it stayed that way until Chevy went to bigger brake pedals for automatics.

On the carb, mine blew out while I was out of town and off roading in my 1963 K-10 4x4.(My avatar truck) I was out in the country and the thing started running bad, had a heck of a time figuring it out until I noticed the exhaust exiting under the rear of the carb base plate. Those gaskets are pretty heavy and impregnated with a piece of metal, like an old exhaust manifold gasket. My temporary fix was to remove the gasket completely and just bolt the carb directly to the intake. I was up above Lone Pine. It sealed better than with the blown out gasket. When I got home, I removed the intake manifold, cleaned out the heat riser holes, tapped them with a pipe tap and threaded the allen head plugs into the top of the manifold. Basically the intake below the carb then acted as a stove to heat the incoming fuel mixture but did not pressurize the gasket area in the cast baseplate of the carb. I also did not install the restrictors for the exhaust in the intake manifold gaskets, so the exhaust was freeflowing in the crossover in the intake. I had dual exhausts on this truck and the benifit of leaving the intake manifold restrictors out was that it kept the carbon buildup in the intake to a minimum. I realized this later when I installed a 4 barrel manifold and carb. The 4 barrel manifold by the way, does not apply heat directly to the base of the carb, but works like a stove, just as the modified 2 barrel intake did. As a side note, I did the same plug modification on my 4 barrel intake for my 401 Buick engine in my boat.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Great advise on the carburator, justcuz.

I will follow through with it as soon as the motor gets back - as the intake manifold will be coming back separated from the long-block rebuild, ready for painting. Should be a piece of cake using your method.

The next deal I’ve got to concern myself with is the transmission fluid lines that run up to the bottom of the radiator.

Any vendors with "buy or remake complete" capabilities?

Has anyone used classictube.com before?

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Get some aluminum line and bend your own. This way you can run them where ever you want. I am going to run mine down the frame rails.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

Cool idea, but be careful. The transmission moves a little bit and the frame is rigid.;)

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

ok,, I am going to run them down the frame rails and stop at the tranny and cross over with soft line. Acually braided steel line to be exact.. ;) :lol:

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

You know what's crazy - I found the exact lines I need in the Original Parts Group website yesterday evening. About $85 for stainless steel lines (2) with all the appropriate fittings.

You may be okay with going 'hard tubing' all the way. These lines that I may yet order run right to the bottom of the radiator - which is connected to the frame - virtually - so you may not have a problem, other than using the softer material.

If I get the motor in and this connection routine turns into a hassle, I may just leave the radiator loose, make the connections and then tie the radiator down. Failing that, I'll just clip the ends off and go soft tube to the radiator.

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

most cars and trucks in the 70-80's came with hard lines from the transmission to the radiators, worked for many years that way

Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
 

So the motor got delivered today and the final price wasn't that bad, considering the first block was total junk and that couldn't be determined until it was disassembled, cleaned and magged: $1,650 total, with a pick up and delivery from HB to Covina and back.

I sprayed the intake manifold today - which was bare metal and tapped the two heat riser holes: 1/2-13 and inserted Allen set screws - as suggested. Worked perfectly and a really intelligent idea, even confirmed by the engine builder - today.

Built my engine stand again, finding all the bolts from 18 months ago, and a move back into the new house. Now the fun begins. Well, once I get past this harmonic balancer issue.;)