How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Short story is timing belt broke. Fixed it all up. Decided to changed the intake and carb combo from a pro dominator with dual 750 Holley to a super victor 4500 flange with a 1050 dominator. (The KID in me)
Rite out of the gate the idle circuit is rich and the low speed cruising around town is fat, lazy, and blubbery.
The 1050 is a 3 circuit. I should be able to tune all of that out. The question I have is we're do I start 1st?
The idle curcuit in the metering blocks (jet size)? Followed up with the low speed air bleeds (jet size up to slow things down)? Should I get into the intermediate air bleed for the rich conditions while cruising?
Thanks for any info that will help. I'm trying get this combo tuned up for a 4 day bracket race event in Eagle Idaho called the Halloween classic.

Motor info
408 SBC
11.6 comp
AFR 227 Jessel shaft mounts
Forged rotating ass. 6" rod
Cam lift .666 installed in at 105.8
Trans th 400 w/ t brake
4600 A-1 converter 4:56 gear.
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Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Wish I could be of help.. My dominator only moves air, not fuel.
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Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Thanks Shaun. Maybe one day I will step my program up. Lol
Did the -7 make it to you?
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Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

OK, Ive got one Patrick set up for street for me, but it's a bastardized deal. I'm no expert but.. let me ask a few questions
Is the 8896 a soft (progressive) linkage? If not I think you will have nothing but headaches.

Is the primary set up with a power valve?

I'm looking for my holley listing and will be able to tell you what the factory jetting was. That's always a good starting point

edit FOUND IT
Both the 8896 and 8896-1 was jetted square with 88's front and rear.

I think the primary metering block is set up so you can use a power valve in the front. I'd sure try that will let you drop the primary down 8 jet sizes or so and maybe be a bit more streetable.
Hope that helps

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

The -7's did get to me.. Not sure what I am going to use them for yet as the motor is spot on with the -8's. I will see how it likes the -9 and -10 this coming Friday :)

Thanks again!

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Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Thanks Marv. I set the fuel pressure @ 6.5 set the float levels for a trickle. Installed 3.5" power valves & dropped the jetting down to 83's. I think your rite I need to even go farther to maybe a 79's.
I ordered AED blocks for it so I can adjust the idle circuit and some air bleeds. This all scares me. All of my tuning has been the basic stuff jets, PV, squirters, accelerator pumps.
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Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

if not answered yet I'd get a hold of prostreetC-10.

He's been known to build a Holley or two and might be able to lend his opinion to this.

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Thank you. I'll PM him.
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Yeah someone send prostreet a link to this. He's a big block guy,,,,, but I guess he is of some use for something (LOL give him a hard time very chance I get) He definitely needs to chime in here.

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

I sent him a PM about this topic.

:metal:

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Thank you very much. I was searching for him on post with no luck.
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Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

No worries.

I'd like to do this someday as well and want to see if it is feasible.

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Sorry to just be getting to this. It's been a crazy week with the Holiday and trying to get the kids back in school and iron the routine down!

Let me start by saying that just about all of the fun I have had with carbs has been in the 4150/4160 platform. Very little Dominator work though I can possibly offer up some stuff to think about.

As you might guess, you are starting off on an uphill battle. There is a VERY good reason why you don't see Dominators on the street unless they are coming off the trailer and into the car show. I think you would have been much better off getting one of the 4150 style carbs that are just about in that same cfm rating. This is assuming that this is a truck that is at least driven on the street some of the time. The one thing that you will be fighting and really can't change is the horrible low speed velocity running through the venturis due, in part, to the huge 2" throttle bores and big venturis. It's a throttle response killer and will certainly cause it to run rich at idle. They really are an "idle to WOT" carb. Those carbs also have really big IFRs compared to the 4150 carbs. Just what is this Dominator list number? Is it new? Does it have the straight leg boosters or the annular? The much older ones are straight leg and the newer will have the annular. 3 circuits can help a little but there is just that much more to try and dial in. They are great for applications like tractor pullers where you really have to walk into the throttle to achieve WOT but still not designed for the street where you spend so much time at very part throttle. Your stall will certainly help a little. A power valve would be a must to read vacuum drops.

Tell us a little bit more about the carb as far as if new and list number. Also remember that you are at about 2,500 ft in elevation so there is a little less O2 in the air which will add to the fat state. At best it's probably going to buck and snort when trying to use on the street. Tuning on a 3 circuit carb is not for the faint of heart either. Yes it can be done just like anything else but you usually have to part with a bunch of Moolah and have Pro Systems, Braswell, AED...etc work the magic, taking in every last detail of your combo.

When you ordered your AED blocks, did you talk to someone at AED? They are awesome and might have been able to get you much closer to having the blocks setup for your needs as apposed to just buying off the shelf, universal blocks.

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Sheesh.......I just realized that you had the list number in the thread title!!!

Is it new? Funny how Holley's disclaimer says "drag race only and for top end power".

How did it run with the twin 750's?

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

That's a whole lot of carb for the street let alone that engine. You shouldn't tune out the intermediate circuit. Why not start with a 750 Dom?

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Ah YES.......the 750 Dominator. Even HOLLEY can't explain why that thing was ever created!!! LOL

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

For looks.
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That was the general reasoning and still not right for the street. They are and will always be like flushing a toilet. Great for the big end but so so around the pits.

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Been eying these up for my next carb.


http://www.prosystemsracing.com/svseries.html

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

The 1050 is slightly used. I traded a electric choke quick fuels for it. Ya every thing is race race. Not for street use. Lol. Hell with that I'm going to test that theory.
It ran like a dream. They were so much fun. Streetable, responsive ran clean on the low end. If I can't figure this 1050 out I will slam them back on. I leave for Boise for the Halloween classic in 6 weeks. So I have some tweak time.

When I talked to AED about the blocks and what I was looking to do all he recommend was the blocks. Never gave up any info on any tune ups that will get me close. Correct me if I'm wrong but I just might try and use the same idle and low speed tune up as a 850. In theory sure it will get me close enough for a base tune.
I'm just trying new things to broaden my experience as a racer and wannabe tunner.
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Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

I almost posted about the SV-1 so that's weird that you did. They have a pretty interested list of accomplishments with that carb and yet it still doesn't seem to be really catching on. I guess it had to be done. We already had the 2 barrel, 3 barrel and 4 barrel, not to mention the Predator variable venturi. Probably the epitome of WTO only. Seems like it would be a nightmare to try and run on the street. In all fairness to them, I know little about it and those guys are MANY steps above me in the art of fuel delivery. I know Marv likes them and for good reason.

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

I'm running one of their nitrous 4150's now on my 489, next motor will be a 632 and would like to try on on it when I finally make the upgrade.
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These SV-1's look like something I can get into.
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For some reason I read into that this is a street/strip ride. First thing would be to set it back to box stock. Probably won't know IFR without using a drill bit or something else to stick in the hole and then measure with a caliper. Of course this won't matter if you immediately swap out the blocks for the AED ones. Those will probably come with 31-33 IFR's. Also need to check the air bleeds. The idle (farthest outside) should be 53's. The inters are 63 and HAB on the inside are 40's (stock).

I haven't done much with 3 circuits so I am not that familiar with the relation of the 3. Just at first glance, the 53's seem pretty small and the 40's seem pretty big. Most 4150's are in the 70-75 range for idle and the highs are 28-33. Once again that interm circuit might have a big effect on the other 2. Sure is easy to bump those 53's up though to lean out the idle charge but dropping down the IFR size to start with might be a better initial move. I'm thinking out loud so sorry if I'm all over the place.

What part of PDX are you? I grew up in Hillsboro and lived last in the Tigard/Lake Oswego area before moving to Bend.

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

I don't recall whether or not the 1050 comes with removable IAB's. If yours does, then try removing the middle IAB and see what that does. I had my 1050 Dom rebuilt by Nickerson Performance. It ran great on the track, but part throttle was very rough. At a dyno session the tuner wanted to make ridiculous main jet changes to clean up the low end AFR (it was pig rich). We call Nickerson and they suggested that I remove the intermediate IAB's (they make em all removable) and leave the mains alone. That one change made all the difference. It drives like a dream at part throttle and it improved my 60'. Before that I would not think of street driving it.

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

All of the Dominators for some time have had removable bleeds. I think you have to go back a ways to get where they are fixed. At least 10-15 years.

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Please think out loud all you want, more info the better!
I'm in outer SE toward Gresham. I work in Hillsboro.

Okay just got back home from Maui Last night and all my parts were at my buddy's waiting for me.
I took a look at all the air bleeds and they are the stock configuration. Only thing is not stock is the jets. I have them at 81 (s88). PV @3.5
The AED idle jet did not have a jet stamp. I took my best guess with a rod sliding through the jet hole. It appears to be a .034 the stock pressed bushing looks like a .042
With that it would be .08 sizes smaller.
The low speed jet is a .053 I wanted to go up 8 sizes (.061)from stock to match what I did on the metering block idle jet. ( I read this on a blog somewhere) All I have is .065-.075's. so I went with the .065 for now till I can get the lower kit.
I will try this out tomorrow to see how we'll it did.

Stumpy
Thank you for the heads up about removing the intermediate air bleed. I will try this out also.

Thanks to everyone.
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Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Hey Mike! I can try to throw some more info in about what you're dealing with. Opinions vary on this, so I'll give you mine, based on my experiences with a couple dominators that I've ran. I had the best luck eliminating the intermediate circuit; basically converting the carb to a 2-circuit. There is a ton of info on the Motorsports Village forum on how this is done, along with some starting points in relation to jetting, ifr relocating and sizing, iab and mab sizing, etc. I would suggest taking a look at this info and then decide if it sounds like something you want to try. It's not hard to do, and, if you're not happy with the results, you can always revert back to the original setup. You can clean up the rich off-idle and part throttle manners of these 1050s and end up with a carb that is just as drivable and throttle-responsive as a good 4150. Now, with that said, my 434 ran better with my reworked hp 1000 than it did with an 8082 hp 1050 at the track. The mph was about the same, but the ets were just a tick better with the smaller carb. Not saying yours won't run better with a tuned-up 1050, though.
BTW, there's also a thread on yellowbullet that I started about a year ago titled " Holley 4150 HP metering " that has a lot of good info on idle feed restrictor location, emulsion, and their affect on start-up, idle, and part throttle drivability. Check that out, also, as that addresses some of the same issues that you're dealing with.
Hope some of this helps you.

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Forgot to add this to my post above. You're on the right track, as far as dropping the primary jets to clean up some of the part throttle issues, but don't forget to increase the pvcr size accordingly once you clean the rich condition up. A lot of guys will plug both pvs, make some passes to get the jetting right, reinstall the primary pv, drop the primary jetting to the point of a clean part throttle cruise and then make up the difference with the pvcr sizing. The blocks you bought should have removable pvcrs already, making that part easier.
If you have a wideband on your truck, this is a WHOLE lot easier! Also, if you don't already have a set, you may want to invest in a numbered precision drill bit set and a digital caliper. These will help when it comes to measuring orifices and modifying the metering blocks and main body.
Hope this helps.

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Thanks Chris I will read up on this lead also. My 8896-2 had a horrible response lag and would not idle worth a darn. Or stay running.
I grabbed the old 8896 this is the old one non adjustable bleeds. So I put the AED blocks on adjusted the jets and installed the annular booster on the main body. Took out the 35 nozzles and installed the 31's. with some air screw adjustments it's much better than the 8896-2. Just a little richer on low end than I would like.
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Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

I'm assuming that the AED blocks have adjustable idle feed restrictions. You could try going a little smaller on them to try and help the rich low speed condition you're having. Do you know what size ifrs came in those blocks?
The annular boosters should help in your application, IMO. They normally require less jet than the standard boosters, so the original jetting in that 8896 might be a little on the fat side with them. Glad to hear that you've made improvements with this carb!

Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

Yes the AED has 34's I can ramp them down to 32's the AED blocks are fully adjustable block. Much more than I know what to do. LoL.
Rite about 2800-3300 is the rich spot. Good thing is the more heat that is in the block the cleaner it starts to run. We will see this Saturday if rain holds out.
I dropped jet to 77's. that's 9 from stock.
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Re: How to make a 1050 Dom list 8896 streetable
 

If the rich condition is occurring around 2800-3300, I'd guess that the intermediate circuit is in play at that point. You're already pretty low on the primary jet with 77s. Are you running a primary power valve? Without the intermediate circuit, I'd say that dropping the primary jet even more and making up for it with the power valve channel restrictions, assuming that you're running a primary power valve, would head you in the right direction. But, if the intermediate circuit is still being used on that carb, then I'm not experienced enough in trying to clean up the tune on a 3-circuit to be able to help you.
If it were mine, I'd eliminate the 3rd circuit before going any further. The info I posted in my first post will shed a lot of light on how this is done.
Good luck this Saturday and keep us posted on how it goes!