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Hemi's 70 Blazer build
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Well, I guess it's about time I started a thread on my build.
I became a member here a few months ago when I purchased my 70 Blazer, and if you're wondering why my name here on a GM forum is "Hemi 43", it's because I've been a car Guy all my life but all my toys were Mopars, even though I've been a Tool Maker for over 30 years working for General Motors. I've built many cars over the years, and just sold my 28 Dodge street rod to build this truck. The Dodge was an amazing car for the 10 years I had owned it, but it just became unpractical. I wanted something that was easy to restore and would at least have more storage for travelling to car shows. I found my Blazer online, and it was located here in Canada about 3 hours away.The truck was complete with new tires, Softopper and tons of other stuff the PO put on. I was actually able to drive it home. It was originally sold in Salem Missouri, and ended up in British Columbia which would explain why it's in decent shape. It has the typical rust issues like rockers and rocker boxes as well as the rear bed area. The windshield frame and frame thankfully are all rust free. I just started the restoration this week, but have been picking away at bits and pieces since I bought it. My goal is to have this done this time next year (52 weeks) so that I can attend the Syracuse Nationals in New York State. Hopefully you enjoy my build as much as I'll enjoy doing it. Dan |
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I'm in for the ride.
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Re: Hemi's 70 Blazer build
Looks like a great starting point!
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Here's some pictures that most owners of this generation of truck have faced before. It was nice to see that the rust was concentrated in pockets and not riddled throughout the whole truck.
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Here's the rear floor section. Rust repair is so easy with all these replacement panels available,so most of the panels should be installed in less than a week.
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Started digging into the passenger side rocker, and found the biggest mouse nest I've ever seen inside the inner rocker box. It almost filled my shop vac. It's no wonder these trucks rotted the way they did. Stupid engineers !!
I'm replacing the floor sections and outer rockers while the body is still on the chassis, then will replace the inner boxes after the body is braced and on a rotisserie. |
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I ll go along for the ride, nice work
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Looking eerily familiar. Fantastic start. I'm happy to punch my ticket too! This is going to be fun.
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Since I've had the truck already for a couple months, that's given me lots of time to plan my build as well as gather lots of parts. One thing I really wanted to do was put the body on a rotisserie so that I could blast and paint the underside of it, because I'm too damn old to lay on my back on the shop floor.
I tried to find a used rotisserie without much luck, and I sure as heck wasn't paying almost 2K for a new one. Thankfully, I built a CNC plasma table a couple years ago, so I was able to make one for about $600 and a few days work. |
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Your not playing fair. CNC plasma table- Really- Just not fair. Ugh. Nice freaking work though. I'm almost afraid to start poking my Blazer now.
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;)....way to take it up a notch...this IS going to be fun. |
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LOL !! Thanks Guys !!
Got more progress done today. Passenger rocker is now in and was able to play with the plasma cutter again too. Not sure what you call this piece, but it seems to be an expensive replacement part that is difficult to find. Thankfully my original piece wasn't totally gone, so I was able to get accurate measurements. After an hour of computer work, I had a program, and 30 seconds of cutting I had a part. Fit pretty good.:metal: I also got my exhaust manifolds back today. Had a friend ceramic coat them for me. I guess I forgot to mention that the old 350/350 combo will be getting replaced with a 2003 5.3/4L60E. |
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Just got another piece today !! This was an expensive one, and although not really needed, it's something I wanted. It's from Dakota Digital and comes with all the sensors. The remote "brain" for it will really clean up the wiring under the dash since there's only a couple LAN wires that feed the info to the cluster. Also, I'll be able to ditch the speedo cable because I'll use the VSS signal from the 5.3's PCM.
I'll be running 33's, so I've decided to change the gear ratio to 4.11:1 With the Overdrive, I will be around 1800 RPM @60 MPH. Next week is the Syracuse Nationals in New York, and will be picking up some more goodies. |
Re: Hemi's 70 Blazer build
Wow great progress. You don't fool around.
PM sent. |
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More progress today, and was able to get the passenger wheel lip repaired. Took a while to get welded in, but got zero warping thanks to TIG. :chevy:
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I'm on board - good luck! Great progress.
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I'am in.
Great work so far. Very nice. |
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This is gonna be a good one, brother has tools and skills,,,,,,, U da man!!!!Donnie
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Just got back from the Syracuse Nationals, and got lots of parts while I was there. Picked up a complete AC system from "Old Air Products", as well as master/booster combo. Most of the metal work is done, and will temporarily reassemble the panels for fitment and to check for correct gaps because it's better to do this now than after paint is on.
I have one more torque box to install, then I'll be able to remove the body from the frame and mount it on the rotisserie. I was also happy to see there's zero rust issues with my header and A-pillars. One item I'm stumped on, is the location of the Blazer fender emblems. I just bought new ones today, but for some reason I only have some of the mounting holes, and my fenders are the original ones. Any ideas? Did all Blazers have the "K5 Blazer" emblem on them? |
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Loving this!!!
Keep spending! Haha |
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Post a picture of your fender. I can't find my emblems right now. I got parts all over the house (wife really loves that). The assembly manual shows 3 holes.
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Subscribed, you are making me look like a very slow turtle and I'm paying to get this stuff done! :-)
Great work. |
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Plasma cutter huh? Playin dirty...I love it. I'm in!
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I started to grind the paint off of the fenders to try and find out where the original emblem mounting holes were, and all I found was a bunch of cheese in them. Even though there's no rust, it would have taken too many hours to repair the dents so I opted to buy new fenders. I'm still confused as to where the "K5 BLAZER" emblem originally mounted, because it requires 3 holes in a triangular pattern. Also, there should be another emblem located below it with the engine displacement utilizing 2 more holes for a total of 5 holes. Any ideas?
Another problem I tackled today was the front drivers spring perch. Al the rivets were loose, so I had to cut them off. I'll replace them with some grade 8, 1/2-20 button heads. |
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It was too hot to sandblast today, so I setup a temporary electrolysis bath to derust some parts. It takes a long time, but the best part is you can just walk away from it and let it do it's work.
I first clean the paint and grease off in a small hot tank I made a few years back, then dump the parts into the bath. If you want to try this, just use Google to find out how. Some say to use a battery charger, but I use both a battery as well as the charger. The before and after pictures don't really show how well this works, but all the rust is gone. The part now has a copper color stain where the rust used to be. |
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Electrolysis set up looks great Dan. I'm trying to get the emblem measurements for you. My original fenders are at the shop and I haven't had a chance to go over there...though I think it's probably easier and will turn out straighter if you just line up, pattern and drill based on emblem position over hole position (does that make sense). So with that in mind I went to pull you some measurements right off the truck. Unfortunately I got called away in the middle so I've only got the driver's side...I'll try to do the passenger's side tomorrow. My front fenders are off a truck. The three holes for the K/5 emblem are the same as whatever the truck emblem was...so we didn't drill those. We referenced the original fenders to get the holes for the 8:350 emblem. The measurements are pulled from the edge of the panel (vertical and horizontal) and to the "black" plastic edge of the K/5 emblem.
Edit: I always say that my fenders came from a truck...and that is the statistical likelihood, but I was just thinking, they could very well be from a 71 or 72 Blazer, I don't know...I bought them at a swap meet and didn't ask. |
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Awesome !! Thanks for that !!
I really like the look of the 8:350 emblem, but I'm thinking twice about using one since I'm using a 5.3 |
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317149 |
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Arghhh !! Go figure !! I just sold my CNC mill about 2 months ago because I hardly used it and it took too much floor space. I guess the old saying is true that as soon as you get rid of something, you'll need it.
It was an old NC machine I converted over to CNC using a personal computer. It ran great but it was just too darn big. |
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Started mocking up the front brakes yesterday. My truck originally had front drums, so I decided to make my own drum to disc conversion using the original hubs,spindles and knuckles. The rotors are 88 GM 4X4 and the only modification was that I had to open up the center hole to fit the hub. The calipers are 03 GM twin piston and just needed a slight modification for clearance. Since I'll be using stock 15" rims, caliper clearance is an issue, but should just fit in there.
Today, I split the body from the frame and was able to use my rotisserie for the first time. So far so good. One item that may cause issues down the road (last picture), is clearance from the front transfer case U-joint (CV-joint) to the transmission oil pan corner on the 4L60E that I plan on using. I've read others having problems also, but don't recall seeing any pictures showing the large CV joint like I have. I'm thinking of maybe flipping the front shaft around so that the CV joint is at the diff. This would give me lots more room by the pan if the slidding yoke was there. Any ideas? Can I get rid of the CV joint all together and just run a U-joint? |
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Sure makes it nicer not having to lay on my back to work on the bottom of the truck.
I couldn't help myself thinking how many years and miles this little critter had been in the truck! |
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Great work so far. Well Done!
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Got my fuel tank made and also rebuilt the steering box, transfer case and the 4L60E. Also spent lots of time cleaning 45 years of grime off of everything. So far no surprises, and everything looks to be in great condition. Hoping next week to drop the 5.3 into the frame so that I can mock up the front cross member and exhaust.Pictures will follow. Dan |
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Been actually busy on the Blazer in the past few weeks, but mostly small things.
Did get the engine cross-member fabbed up and the 5.3 installed, as well as the transmission and transfer case. Just finished the stainless exhaust, so most of the fab work on the frame is done. Hopefully I'll be able to take it all apart and sandblast it in a week or so, then the re-assembly can begin. Here in Ontario, any donor engine must retain all of it's emission controls regardless of what year the vehicle is. This includes catalytic convertors, air pumps, egr and even the charcoal evap canister.It's a PITA, but the fines are huge if caught without them. My Blazer will meet all 2003 emission standards. I guess it's not a bad thing because these things don't really hurt performance. |
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Great progress. It looks like you aren't using those factory exhaust hangers. If that's the case they are always a quick sell in the parts forum if you wanted remove and sell them.
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Yes you do. Sorry didn't realize you hadn't bothered.
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Got lots done, but haven't had much time to post updates. Finally got the frame sandblasted and painted which is a nice hurdle to get over. Have also powder coated tons of smaller items. I'm gonna hate my hydro bills this month !!
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