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Z'ing the rear?????
I know a lot of people are running step notches but I dont like the look of all the stuff sticking through the bed. I want the floor to be flat like stock.
So my question is has anyone had any experience doing this???? What I am looking to do is like what they did on that fesler built truck that was in truck builder mag. Z the rear and raise the bed floor. Just looking for some guidence and I am z'ing the front 3" as well. Here is the link to the truck I am talking about: http://www.feslerbuilt.com/1967ChevyTruck.htm |
Re: Z'ing the rear?????
you just need to run the correct size notch, and raise the bed floor high enough to cover it . Build the bed mounts accordingly.
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
You can do an under the bed kit:metal:
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
What is your current setup? Stock? If not how much?
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
Right now it is stock I just started doing deconstruction on the truck so I can start working on the frame with out the body in the way. The reason I like this idea is it looked really clean from what I saw and I was thinking about doing the z right in front of the stock trailing arm cross member so I wouldn't have to worry about it hitting the ground and I wouldn't have to do a custom 4 link. Also this would give me a way to run the exahust over the frame and under the bed and dump it out the side. I have to double check the location of the rear crossmember though now that I think about that... Also I do plan to tow with my truck on occasion and it seems to me from what i have been reading a z would be stronger, less welding less chance for failure, then a big step notch.
As far as runnning gear I will probably be running a 20" wheel with a 29" tall tire. |
Re: Z'ing the rear?????
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
I will see if i can find that, thanks
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
seems to me that zing the rear is a pain and could cause problems with getting your truck low, u can put a notch in the frame and still have a stock looking bed.
also i would think again about zing the front and back if you are going to be towing with it imo. a bagged truck isnt the best thing to be towing with. |
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
If it were me i would notch it, dont cut up the bed floor and raise it accordingly. IF you Z the rear you will still have to raise the bed floor anyway.
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
I dont mind raising the bed floor as long as the floor is flat! I dont want a big hump in the middle of my bed is all and I have hurd of a lot of problemc with step notches cracking do to the way that force is exerted on them and the fact that you have 2 weldded areas along with the notch it self being welded together, thats just to many possible points of failure for my taste! I have been doing some more research and I think I am going to give it a try and see what happens, I have a couple people that build custom rods and chassies for a living,that we put wheels on their stuff, that I have spoken with and the said they would try to help me out as long as i was willing to waite. So we will see what happens!
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
4 Attachment(s)
Here's the truck I mentioned...... "Project Slow Build"
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
just install your notch then raise the bed floor to clear the notch, thats alot better that doing a rear z
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
so if you were to z the front and rear, use no step notch just a c notch how much would you have to raise the bed floor. how much did the guy above raise his floor??? sounds like a good way to keep the flat floor and trailing arms.
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A flat bed floor can be done w/a Z'd frame or a step-notch. |
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
i'm confused now, wouldn't you need to z the frame on the other side of the crossmember that the trailing arms attach to? or has that been addressed by altering the crossmember on this particular truck? i can't see how the trailing arms would get more clearance if they are still bolted into the stock location. i'm a newb so sorry if it's painfully obvious and i'm just not getting it.
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
No, the trailing arms would be able to go up that much further before hitting the frame rails because they have been raised.
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
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The reality is, for trailing arm suspensions, where you locate the frame after the trailing arm xmember is irrelevant (except for the Panhard bar mount, which can be adjusted up/down rather easily). You don't even need a frame at all (again, except for some kind of centering device such as the Panhard) after the trailing arm xmember. |
Re: Z'ing the rear?????
"The reality is, for trailing arm suspensions, where you locate the frame after the trailing arm xmember is irrelevant (except for the Panhard bar mount, which can be adjusted up/down rather easily). You don't even need a frame at all (again, except for some kind of centering device such as the Panhard) after the trailing arm xmember."-XXL
Very well said XXL alot of people dont seem to understand that, they think the back of frame is such a structural piece, im not saying u dont need it but all it is a place to mount pan hard , springs and bed. The trailing arm crossmemeber that the trailing arms bolt to is the main strength. |
Re: Z'ing the rear?????
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The frame rails interfere w/the trailing arms when the arms are raised high enough. A simple notch of the frame would/could remedy the situation but you will still have to modify the bed supports (to raise the bed floor if keeping it a solid floor) create a new shock crossmember as well as the rear-ends locating device. Z-ing may not be everyone's answer..... but it is still a viable option for some when still retaining the trailing arms (or factory front a-arms/steering box) & going ultra-low. |
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
thanks for the clarification, that makes sense now.
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Re: Z'ing the rear?????
z'ing the rear frame is pretty much a 4' cnotch, just do a regular notch and raise the floor, or do a notch cover ;)
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