Ball joints?
 

How do I replace the ball joints on my 84 K10?

Re: Ball joints?
 

This is a rather involved process that takes a few special tools.
First you need to be familiar enough to remove quite a few parts to even get there.
You have to remove the lock-out hubs, hub/rotor, spindle, caliper bracket, etc.
The spindle removeal is no easy task. There is a special tool that helps here, but it is not necessarily required....but it sure helps with the ones that are more stubborn than others.
After that comes "popping" the joints themselves, along with the tie-rod. After that, you have the knuckle loose and it is ready for pressing. The joints require pressing out and back in. If you have access to a hydraulic press, it can be done at home, if not, you are looking for a pro.
The re-install process is very similar to disassembly, except for the initial attachemnt of the knuckle itself. The first thing you need to do is replace the upper sleeve for the joint's taper. This is one of the special tool places. There is a 4-pronged socket (looks similar to the spindle nut socket) that turns the upper sleeve.
The you install the knuckle by torquing the lower joint's nut first, while the upper's taper is not yet enguaged. After the lower is torqued, you torque the sleeve down onto the upper taper. After that torque the upper joint's nut in place and insert the cotter pin. After that..........it is basically just reverse of the disassembly.

This is a very simplified over-view....kinda assuming that you have the ability to do the hub/rotor removal and install.

Re: Ball joints?
 

You dont need a hydraulic press to get the ball joints out of the knuckle - autozone lets you rent a tool (give a deposit and get a refund when you return the tool) that can be used to press ball joints in and out using a wrench to turn turn a threaded rod.

A press is way easier though.:lol:

Re: Ball joints?
 

While your in there, check your axle end universal joints too.

Re: Ball joints?
 

Pull the knuckles,press out/press in,and reassemble.

Re: Ball joints?
 

Thanks guys, I'll definitely check my u joints, and probably change the front and rear gear oil, what is the best gear oil to use? The BEST.

Re: Ball joints?
 

The best gear oil is probably Royal Purple. ;)

Re: Ball joints?
 

I guess we could go around with what`s everyone`s favorite.I haven`t found a gear oil that doesn`t lubricate a rear or one that had any part in rear end failure.No matter what motor you have or tires you`re spinnin`,the rear`s doing the same job,stock or modified.Just go with a quality brand.I`ve used rom Drydene HD Gear Lube used on heavy equipment to Moroso Hill Climbing Gear Lube.

Re: Ball joints?
 

What weight should I get? I'll probably go with Schaeffer.

Re: Ball joints?
 

this is the tool i use for ball joints.. it works great for ujoints too ...:metal:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4065

Re: Ball joints?
 

That`s a neat little press.Sure would come in handy.Especially working on a truck away from the shop.

Re: Ball joints?
 

Hey guys, need to revive the thread. Just got my new axle with new u-joints assembled and installed in my axle housing. I slide the axle through my knuckle with mounted spindle and new ball joints installed and realized my top ball joint was preventing the knuckle from installing on the axle housing yokes. Any ideas how to get this installed? Did I mistakenly replace my knuckle ball joints while it was off the truck?

Thanks,
Shawn

Re: Ball joints?
 

If you can ,Please put up a picture or two . I'm having tough time picturing what is wrong

Re: Ball joints?
 

You can see on the pictures where the top ball joint will not fit in the upper yoke mounting hole.

Re: Ball joints?
 

The spindle (knuckle) needs to be in place before the axle shaft can be put in.Sorry but some of your work will have to be undone .

Re: Ball joints?
 

If I did that I would have to install my U-joints on my axle while inside the housing. I don't think that can be the solution.

Re: Ball joints?
 

you will have to take these nuts loose and take that spindle from the knuckle then slide the axle out as an assembly.

The spindle is a real tight fit most times so it will take a block of wood and a hammer to shake it loose most of the time

Re: Ball joints?
 

Ok, I see what you are saying. Remove the spindle, install the knuckle, then slide the axle in. I like this idea better than removing and reinstalling a ball joint. Thanks for the help buddy.

Re: Ball joints?
 

powerdriver got me straight. Here she is. Thanks again.

Re: Ball joints?
 

Maybe a dumb observation....you have your inner wheel bearing/seal on the spindle.

You should install the race, bearing and seal into your wheel bearing hub, then slide the hub onto the spindle.

Just in case you didn't know, I'd never seen anyone do it your way before.

Re: Ball joints?
 

I guess also, you're missing your backing plates....

Maybe I'm an idiot and you're just mocking things up, but that last picture looks like your'e going 2 steps forward and 3 back...

Just trying to help.

Re: Ball joints?
 

Thanks for the advice but I tried that. Unfortunately, the spindle did not enter the bearing without pressing it on the spindle. It didn't take much, but more than a simple push.

BTW, the backing plate and axle seal are on the axle inside the knuckle.

As for 3 steps forward and 2 steps back, well yes, I did make a mistake. It is not my first and it won't be my last.

Re: Ball joints?
 

Your inner (or outer, for that matter), should slide onto your spindle with a little resistance, it's not like a pinion bearing that needs to be pressed on. They should have slight resistance. The way you have it now, you won't get your wheel bearing seal to seat in the hub.

Also, your inner bearing isn't packed, that I could see. Again, pack the bearing, install into hub, pack the seal, tap seal onto hub, then install onto spindle. I had a spindle last week that was too tight, you might have a burr, and need to use some emery cloth to clean your spindle.

I meant your brake backing plate, that you hang the caliper off of. Like I said, I might be an idiot because your just mocking things up, but USUALLY you install spindle, backing plate, nuts (the one photo a few posts ago with red arrows), then hub, etc....

Re: Ball joints?
 

Thanks for the help. I'll look into what you are saying.

Re: Ball joints?
 

I'm rebuilding my Dana 44 now if you want me to post some pics for reference.

Re: Ball joints?
 

68chevyfuelie is correct. You are going to have to deal with the source of the interference between the bearing and the spindle. Both bearings should slide onto their respective places on the spindle rather easily....not sloppy, but definately not hard.
The bearings (inner and outer) must be packed with grease and the inner gets installed into the back of the hub/rotor. Then it gets "trapped" by the seal.

I have never seen anyone attempt to install a knuckle with the axle and spindle already attached? It certainly didn't come apart that way....

Either way, you still need the socket that turns the upper ball-joint sleeve. There is a specific sequence and torque specification for this...

Re: Ball joints?
 

Please do. I bought a '70 K10 burb last spring that has a 10 bolt up front that I need to get rid of. I have a '72 D44 to replace it, but it needs to be completely gone through, and I would love to see pics.

Also, I need to do the balljoints on my '79 K20. "Popping" the old balljoints has been a problem. How do you deal with ones that are very rusted?

Re: Ball joints?
 

Ok - I'll get some pics on here in a couple days.

By "popping" do you mean breaking the knuckle free from the axle housing after the balljoint nuts and snap rings are removed? You need a pickle fork and a hammer/5 lb. sledge. Should drop off after a few hits.

Re: Ball joints?
 

Here's a quick run down...

My ball joints were already pressed out and new ones pressed in along with new knuckle studs.

Without the axle shaft in the axle, slide the balljoint studs into the axle and thread the nuts on. Tighten the lower balljoint nut to 80 lb-ft. If the stud spins before reaching the required torque, like mine did, try tightening the top nut some, then torque the bottom. The sleeve that threads into the top of the axle "C" gets torqued to 40 lb-ft, then the top nut gets torqued to 100 lb-ft. Don't forget the cotter pin.

This is where I left off.

Attachment 657511
Attachment 657512

Now insert the axle shaft and prepare the spindle.

Attachment 657517
Attachment 657521
Attachment 657522

Then....

Re: Ball joints?
 

...take some grease and liberally apply it to the spindle bearing and basically the entire rear of the spindle. While this may seem unnecessary, having grease on the knuckle-spindle mating surface will aid in dissassembly next time around since the knuckle and spindle often rust fuse together after time.

Attachment 657524
Attachment 657525

Below are the rest of the contents of the spindle bearing kit. The spindle seal goes into the back against the bearing and the rubber axle seal goes onto the axle shaft along with the plastic spacer.

Re: Ball joints?
 

Here is where the seal and spacer should sit at the flange of the stub shaft.

Attachment 657529

Then carefully slide the spindle over the stub shaft, making sure not to mess up the seals you just put into place.

Attachment 657530

Then place the brake caliper bracket on the knuckle studs and tighten the nuts to 30-40 lb-ft (From Pirate4x4.com) or to 65 lb-ft (From Pavementsucks.com). I'm leaning towards the lower spec ~35 lb-ft. These are the only sources I can find with this spec so if anyone knows for sure I'm all ears. In the end it will look like this.

Attachment 657531
Attachment 657532

Note that I am doing an 8 lug conversion on top of my axle rebuild so your spindle and caliper bracket will look a little different but the process is exactly the same.

I didn't get to the wheel bearing and hub/rotor install yet but hopefully this Fri or Sat.

Re: Ball joints?
 

Excellent pics! They should help alot. One other question I have is about the seals down in the axle tube. The D44 I'm going to use came off my '72 suburban. It's a parts truck now, but when I was driving it the left side leaked axle lube like crazy. What's the easiest way to replace those seals?

I bought two 10 bolts with the right gears (they're so cheap) when I did the axle swap on my '79. I figured I'd get it on the road with one and go through and totally redo the other at my leisure and put it in at a later date. But I'm stuck at removing the balljoints. The lower one on one side just will not come out......
b

Re: Ball joints?
 

The seals in the axle tube (basically at the center section) are a bit involved to replace. You will need to remove the carrier, press/drive them out from the outside being careful not to mess up with machined surface they are pressed into, then press new ones in from inside the carrier. I have never done this but I know they make special tools to do it. Then bolt the carrier back in place and check the contact pattern.

As for your stuck balljoint - you can't get it out of the knuckle or you can't get the knuckle off the axle? I stated a few posts ago how to get the knuckle off the axle.

You will need a press to get the balljoints out of the knuckle. You can actually rent the press at Autozone or Kragen, etc. By rent I mean pay a deposit and get all your money back upon return of the tool. Be aware that the balljoint press alone will only work to remove the ball joints; you will need another tool rental "4x4 ball joint adapter" to work with the press to get new ones in.

I didn't take pictures of this process but it really is as simple as it sounds.

Re: Ball joints?
 

I figured the axle seals would be complicated. But there's not much point in putting that axle in as-is since I know it will leak.

I have one lower balljoint that will not come out of the axle. I have pickle-forked it and gotten to the point where I'm just BFH-ing it. The clip and nut are out, and it won't budge. I will probably just have to redo the axle that is installed currently in the truck. I'm afraid at this point I've damaged the other one.

Re: Ball joints?
 

Maybe post a pic of what you're dealing with...

The two balljoints should be pressed into the knuckle and once you remove the nuts the knuckles are pretty easy to knock off the axle ends with a BFH and picklefork. THEN you would need to remove the snap rings and use the press to remove the ball joint from the knuckle.

Also I went back and edited a previous post because I found a list of Dana 44 torque specs that give 65 lb-ft for the knuckle-to-spindle nuts - sounds higher than I remember but it's the only written spec I can find.

EDIT: just found a source on Pirate4x4 saying 30-40 lb-ft. I think that sounds more accurate...

Re: Ball joints?
 

I'm actually on the road right now, so I'll take another look at everything when I get home. It's possible I missed something. It wouldn't be the first time.

As for the D44, I'm thinking I may be better off getting a different one that's newer. I've never had one leak axle lube like that before, maybe I could avoid having to tear it completely apart just to replace some seals. And maybe I could get one that isn't almost 40 years old. I need a 3.07 ratio, and I doubt those are in much demand.

Re: Ball joints?
 

A leak i would think has to be a seal or possibly a wear groove on the axle from the seal because unless a axle housing is damaged in some way, it does not matter if its 1 year or 40 years old its still an axle housing. The only other thing i could think of would be if there are different diameter axle shafts for the 44 then maybe you have a small axle shaft and a large seal installed so it dosent seal on the axle? Just a thought..

Re: Ball joints?
 

I never had that axle apart, just remember having to constantly put gear oil in the thing. It would be on the inside of the tire and in a little puddle if it sat long enough. The truck seemed pretty unmolested, but you never know.

When did D44 fronts disappear from Chevys? They were phased out after the 10 bolt came out, right?

Re: Ball joints?
 

The conversion took place over a pretty long period of time. Somewhere between '77 and as late as '78. I guess it depended upon the available supply?

Re: Ball joints?
 

Never mind that balljoint. I hadn't messed with it in a couple months, turns out I was pounding on the axle I pulled out--I guess for "practice." That axle had issues. The one I want to rebuild is still sitting untouched on jackstands. I'll be back when I start having problems again. But I can't help thinking it would be easier to change balljoints on an axle that's bolted to a truck.