It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

So, after having been lurking and researching on these and other forums for the last 9 months, the time has finally come to start the posts for, yes, my S10 Swap... I’ve had the opportunity to purchase 3 AD trucks last summer and since I was unable to get started on the body work and such… I had to start up with the frame work. The starting trucks… well here they are!

A 1947 Chevy 5 window 1/2 ton pickup
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...sengerview.jpg

A 1952 GMC 3 Window pickup
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...uarterview.jpg

A 1952 GMC 5 Window pickup
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...uarterview.jpg

The intention is to take these 3 trucks and amalgamate all of the best sheet metal to create one 5 window pickup with a Chevy front end (I like them the best). The remaining parts will be put together for a second truck with spare parts and sold off to help pay for the costs. I've bought all 3 of these so far and the following 1991 GMC Sonoma S-15 for the drivetrain and chassis to put the finished truck on for a more "modern" day driving experience.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...10original.jpg

9 Jan 09

So far, I've broken down the S-15 to drivetrain components and started the rebuild/modifications/painting of the parts. All new suspension bushings, seals, brakes, brakelines are going in as I go.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...boxremoved.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...oodremoved.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...uarterview.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...dyforpaint.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...wlypainted.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...erpainting.jpg

I’m going to be using the 4.3 ltr (262) throttle body fuel injection system with a TH700R4 auto trans w/overdrive and 3.42 gears in the rear on a chevy 10 bolt . The intended rims are 15x8 Torque thrusts.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

6 Feb 09

So this has been what I've accomplished so far... don't you just love the wintertime in Victoria BC ?

It's tough building a truck in an igloo, ever tried?

Seriously tho...

Here's the frame, needlegunned, wire wheeled, painted and reassembled! The entire IFS on the front end was stripped down and repainted with Zerorust, and new Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings installed. New balljoint boots, new armored brakelines, new performance cross drilled rotors, pads and calipers installed. New pinion and axle seals in the rear end. New brake shoes, brake cylinders, springs and hardware also installed in the rear. To top it all of, brand new shocks for a smooth ride.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...0fullframe.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...brakelines.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...brakelines.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...randrotors.jpg

8 Mar 09

Well... a bit more time has passed and last week I decided that the compression in the cylinders was great (min 180, max 192 psi (10% deviation is deemed acceptable, so 5% was great) so it was definitely worthwhile to rebuild to replace the valve seals (which leaked) and a rebore and ring job wasn't necessary.

Well... I couldn't leave it in the mess of crap that it was.... now could I?

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...ne019Small.jpg

Hell no! So... after tearing it down, ultrasonic bathing the heads and intake, some sandblasting, laquer thinner bathing and much needed primer an paint... this is what I ended up with...

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...ne029Small.jpg

But... yet again... we can't leave it on the stand forever... So... I mounted the beam clamp overhead inside my garage, pulled out the 2 ton chain lift and remounted the engine (the board in the back of the block is to prevent the engine from rolling backwards until I get the transmission back in (that's next on the chopping block)).

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...ne030Small.jpg

So... next is the shift kit and trans rebuild...

18 Apr 09

Well, everything that can be done in preperation, has been done. After all the work of rewiring and reinstalling everything, here's where it sits....

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...beforetrip.jpg

Next, the trip to go pick up the body!

A couple of buddies and myself will be heading up on friday to start the swapping of parts and finally pulling the product about 600 miles to the coast for it's placement on the "new" frame.

**crosses fingers for great weather**

Cheers,
Ted.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Ted,
It looks like you are putting in the work to make the swap as quick as possible. Good luck with the next nine days. I'll cross my fingers and hope for sunshine.
Jeff

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Very Nice start!! Frame and engine look great... I too have just started a swap... I am being told by some you have to move the engine back roughly 7"??? Have you heard this?? It looks as if yours is in the stock location...

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

I don't believe i moved mine back 7". I believe it is more around 3 or so but I'm not one hundred percent sure. I basically put the engine in close to where I wanted it made sure everything else was cool then mounted the 3/8 flat stock. I think it turned out pretty good.

Josh

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

From the understanding that I have by SgtUSMC is that the 4.3 can stay where it is due to the loss in 2 cylinders, and if you use an electric fan... (If memory serves)... otherwise, yep, 3/8" plate and a shift to the rear... not really a big deal... just time.

Cheers,
Ted.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

I'm running the 2.8, however, the 4.3 isn't to much longer. If you run either stock engines you do not need to move it at all. Look at my build thread and you can see how much room there is. If it gets tight for you, (don't see how it could thou) you could run an E-fan.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Sorry thought I had pics of the engine in my build thread. Here's the room I'm talking about in the stock location
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...usmc/002-4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...usmc/003-4.jpg

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Thadius,
The 4.3 does get tight. I had to remove my fan and pust the radiator out about 2 inches to get it to work without moving the motor. I have pics on a thread labled options for moving the radiator forward. look it up and It show what I had to do.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

I see that you tossed the rad on the forward side of the rad supports...

Any idea if it'd work better with the rad in it's normal spot with an electric minus the motor fan?

Cheers,
Ted.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

I had to put it at an angle to clear the steering box. If I mounted it above the S/B in the original spot. The rad would be to high for the factory rad. top cover brace. In my opinion, the rad would stay cooler in the normal position as close to the fan as possible with a fan shroud. Mine is a little farther away than normal and at an angle. I have yet to have any heating issues, however, the weather has been nice and under 90 degrees. Now, if your going to run an E-fan. I don't think there would be a difference in whether the rad is in the normal position or at an angle (I'm no expert on cooling, please correct me if I'm wrong). Like I said the weather has been nice. Once it hits 100-110 There's a good chance that the fan might not cool the rad since there's a nice gap and no shroud. If I run into that problem I'll go the E-fan. I don't want to do to much to the radiator area since we plan on swapping out the engine for something bigger.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

mine was moved forward even after I removed the fan. the pullys wewre still to close to the factory mounting location for the radiator. It is really amazing how much further the 4.3 ltr stick forward than the 2.8 ltr. I cant believe how much room SGT. Although the 4.3 is basically a 350 with 2 cylinders cut off.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Well, a couple of good buddies and I travelled up to the parent's place to finally pick and choose the parts that is to be my truck. We spent 7 glorious days up drinking beer, eating fantastic food, having some great laughs and somewhere in there we got to get some work done on the trucks.

The first day ended up with all of the trucks at the same place for the first time and ready for the next day's teardown!

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...setheparts.jpg

After a week, we had 2 partial trucks and 1 full one... which was bound for my place... 600 miles away.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...nthemornin.jpg

So, ready to roll, we were off at a god forsaken hour of 5am... gah!

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...odamnearly.jpg

Eventually the sun decided to make an appearance and we couldn't resist the pic... was also an opportunity to check the straps and chain hauldowns before the first town (good thing we did, one had slipped off!)

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...eonthelake.jpg

By mid morning we were well on our way and the scenery was excellent... time for a morning watering break and strap check!

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...rningbreak.jpg

So, with everything finally home safe and sound... the time had come to finally put a body on the frame and engine that I'd been prepping for so long.

Well, after two days (didn't take any the first day) here's where I sit... the front has been trimmed to fit and the cap is in place... the two bolted together, but not mounted to the frame as of yet.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...cabinplace.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...rmountedye.jpg

Now, clearing out the box and running boards and getting ready to fit them as well and then get them all fittin properly. I'd like to extend a great thanks so far to Jeffs51chevy for his measurement and assistance so far... making the trimming of the sheetmetal soooooo much easier!

Cheers,
Ted.

PS Yes I know it's a GMC hood and Chev grill... the chevy hood is in the shop atm getting worked on... just wanted to keep the dust and rain outta the engine bay.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Ted,
Great looking first day of sheet metal hanging. I wish it went that fast for me. You will be driving it in no time. :devil: Keep up the great work.
I'm glad I could help. Let me know if you need anything else.
Jeff

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Looking real good. Love the scenery pics too! You've got a good start on it all.
Later
Josh

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Are you planning on shortening the ext. cab frame to long bed specs, or using a longer bed on the truck?

Thanks!

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Actually, I cut 5" out of the frame to 117" as this sets the wheelbase almost perfect. These frame are relatively easy to shorten, just make sure you make lots of alignment marks! I laid out the cuts with a scriber, but I also made measurements on taped lines to make sure the end result was well within 1/32". Also made front tape marks for straightness of the frame (up and down) and diagonal reference marks as well. All in all, it came out pretty damn square and level!

Cheers,
Ted.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Any pictures of that process? Did you split it at the factory seam?

I have a frame out of a 95 s10, and it's boxed clear back to the rear kickup so it'd be more work to cut it down...

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

The frame that I started with came from a 91' S15 Sonoma (same as the S10) but was only boxed up to the joint (just under the cab door).

Basically, layout a cut line 5" back from the original end, using a square, scribe the line all the way around it.

I laid out two pieces of tape, the first about 4" infront of the original joint and drew a verticle line on it (perpendicular to the frame). Then another line on a piece of tape 17" back from there. Reason for this is that after the cut and re-alignment, the tape lines will end up being 12" or 1' apart. I found this to be crutial since there always seemed to be little 'bits' stuck inside the back corners of the original welds.

Next, take a 4' level and lay it on the long straight section on the frame above the joint, place a piece of tape and a mark on the forward kickup section. This will help to ensure that the frame is aligned horizontally when you put it back together.

Finally, lay 4 pieces of tape on the frame, 2 forward of the place to be welded and 2 rearward of. Make 4 marks on these tapes so that, diagonally, the marks are the same distance apart. The location isn't critical, just as long as the marks are the same distance diagnally apart.

Cut out the weld, cut off what you don't need (in this case 5") and butt everything back up. Triple check all measurements to within your acceptable tolerances (mine was 1/32") and start welding. Make your final verification checks after welds are complete, clean up and remove tape marks... Voila!

Good luck,
Ted.

PS Sorry... didn't take any picks of the chop process, but feel free to PM me if you have any further questions... I'd be happy to advise.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

I'm not even doing a swap but appreciated Thadious detail layout instructions. diagonal check points are critical. Only thing I would add is to set and check the frame for level across the rails (perpendicular to the two frame rails) too. A long framing level works well for that.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

anything to update? im just starting my swap and curious how everybody else is coming along. my progress is slow, actually sloth like, but i was checking to see everybody elses

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Currently working on a multitude of different aspects of the (re)build. As of late I've been spending alot of time de-rusting everything that I can via electrolysis. I've spent a fair bit of time trying to find phosphoric acid around this town so I can get inside the doors to get them prepped for coatings and hopefully get the conversion of '52 doors to '47 door and install power windows (I'm working on a way to use the ones from a '93 Grand Cherokee, since they are dirt simple and look like they will match up easily with minor mods).

I managed to score a "new" set of front fenders and a hood that some PO had sandblasted and ended up sending them to a wrecking yard... $150 for the works. They are apparantely straight and clean with minor surface rust to cleam up... and about 600 miles away... Hopefully I'll see them by the end of the month if all goes well. Waiting on those to get the final front end alignment done.

As well, my box sides were trashed so I've opted to refab a new set myself with a sheet of 16 guage cold rolled steel and 1 5/8" x 1/16" tubing. The only thing I have to buy repro is stake pockets ($50 per) for the rear since mine were royally trashed, but the fronts are good, so I'll be reusing them. One of the things I'd like to do is to trim the lower pockets so they curve in nicely at the bottom... not completely just enough to get a wrench in and not alot more.

Anyone got a straight set of front stake pockets they wanna part with? :lol:

Other than that... a whole lot of everything and a little of nothing... but progressing none the less!

Cheers,
Ted.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Well...it's been awhile since I posted the updates... so here goes...

Had to wait about a month n a half to get the new fenders and hood so I could carry on with the front end. In the meantime I redesigned and fabb'd up a new radiator core support and designed the new front bumper brackets to weld to the frame... a quick rebuild and spray bomb job on the grill and we were ready to finish mocking up the front end...

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...re003small.jpg

I had to cut off the front cab brackets and reweld them (wasn't quite happy) and redo the front bumper brackets 3 times to get them just right!

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...re002small.jpg

Well... next week I start on the box and building new sides from scratch! Wish me luck...

Cheers,
Ted.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Wow, that looks great Ted. Really nice work you're doing there.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

that looks good

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Nice work.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Me likey, likey. Nice work!!!

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Thadious,

Do you have the stock s10 gas tank in yours? If so, does the "lowered" front part of the tank stick under the cab?

Mine's sitting on 4x4's right now on top of the frame (3.5" up), and it wouldn't work this low and still be able to use the tank if it wasn't an extended-cab frame.

Also, I've noticed that my front bumper brackets are different than yours. Mine (was) a 3800 1-ton, and the brackets are perpindicular to the frame rather than parallel like yours, and it just mounted flat to the front of the frame. Makes me think it'll be easier to mount this way...but I'm not that far yet to see.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

I spent alot of time deciding on how to best do the tank. I'm not going to be using the stock s-10 tank as I've opted for the blazer tank to go back by the rear axle. I'm currently trying to work out how to relocate and set up the filler neck so I can fill from behind a centre mount license plate flip down bracket. I've noticed that the fill necks on the tanks are just soldered in and since I teach at a sheet metal shop, this would be cake to relocate.

I'm just trying to keep from a fender or side mount fill neck and not desiring to have a in-box filler.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Ted.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

I am going to run mine up next to the driver rear stake pocket, my tank is after market with side fill. I found details where a guy put his in the stake pocket with a boat type flush fill cap but I don't want to work that hard. I'll just add a box next to the stake box, flush with the side offset and use the original fill/vent piece from the cab. I am going to have a muffler shop fab a pipe from the fill to tank and use short pieces of hose to connect them. PM me with an email if you want photos of what I found in my search.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Had thought about the stake pocket idea as well... and since I've rebuid the box sides without the holes in the top... that may be a possibility, besides, I think the fill neck for the blazer tank is right there...

Hmmm...


Ted.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

How low will the truck end up? The reason I ask is the center fill behind the license plate might be a PITA if it sits too low when done. Mine's coming out the driver's side, kinda like the 47-48's did on the pass side.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Hey I'm gathering thoughts and parts for the same type of swap. What do you use for headers or exhaust manifolds? What needs to done to the front and rear s10 suspension? I'm doing a 1952 GMC with a 1993 S15. Are you using a chassis swap kit like advance desinge or ez-swap or are you fabbing your own brackets? I have not wrenched like this for 20 years. Thought I would give it a try. Thanks!:gmc2:

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Looking great Ted!!! I totally missed when you started posting. It is amazing how much better things look with a little elbow grease. Your frame and motor look great. Good luck and I will make it a point to check out your progress every once in a while.

Bernie

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Suspension stays exactly where it is... I swapped for the 4x4 rearend and did mockup with 2 1/2" front spaces (going to mockup and fab new control arms in the future) and the remaining distance makeup for fenders will come from offset on the rims.


Headers and exhaust manifold are all stock from the 4.3 tbi and nothing had to be changed. I did lengthen the intermediate shaft of the steering for distance (about 8 1/2" added), but I ground the weld points for a full root pass and a good cap on both so I had full penetration on the welds and then machined them back to diameter with the base metal. After a coat of boxliner paint, you'd think they came that way from Chev.

Right now, I still have the blazer tank, but one of the other things I'm toying with is the thought of putting it further forward on the frame, right behind the cab and above the driveshaft... I've got about 2" of clearance and if I pull the spotwelds on the pump/sender lock, I can spin it 180 degrees so the lines head to the drivers side and the fill neck is almost exactly where they belong on the '47... coming out the forward lower end of the box. :metal: That way I've still got a nice chunk of space for the spare... (Now I have to figure out how to run the exhaust... sigh.

Cheers,
Ted.

PS Last fall I redid the entire suspension with Energy Suspension bushings in black... well worth it for the handling IMO.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Ted.....it is amazing to me how extremely similar the first picture of your truck and the second picture of my truck on my page look as far as the position it has sitting against the woods and brush line!! when i look at your thread i keep thinkin im looking at mine!! haha

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Well... it's been quite awhile since I did a little update and quite frankly since I've had the time to get some work done!

So... after this long... I finally got to the point where it was time to get some sandblasting to raw sheetmetal and some priming done so I can actually get moving forward.

Here's the hood itself in progress... the rust is pretty much washed off and notice the amount of sand in the background (it's actually crushed glass btw)

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...Picture001.jpg

This is what my inside shop looked like after 3 days of cleaning up parts... huge difference from what they looked like on the truck!

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...Picture003.jpg

Now, this also included the cab getting done and a ton of cleaning up afterwards... so, next to prime and seal it all up to prevent rust and allow me to do the bodywork at my leasure, then reprime it all again prior to painting...

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...Picture024.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...Picture026.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...Picture019.jpg

And yes... that's me on the business end of a paint gun!

Well... that's it for now.. more to come in the future!

Cheers,
Ted.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

nice progress, I see you are painting with your shop light, been there and its not getting any better.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Lol... just a quick prime to seal up the sheetmetal and prevent rust (it is winter in Canada after all)... the sanding and bodywork is in progress now...

Cheers,
Ted.

Re: It finally starts... another S10 swap...
 

Wow, I can't believe you do your blasting inside your shop! It's messy enough outside.